IN THE SHADOW OF NEAHKAHNIE: NORTHWEST REGIONAL STYLE BEGINNINGS MARIANNE HAKANSON KADAS A THESIS Presented to the Interdisciplinary Studies Program; Historic Preservation and the Graduate School of the University of Oregon in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science June 1991 APPROVED: Leland M. Roth, Chair Copyright 1991 Marianne Hakanson Kadas An Abstract of the Thesis of Marianne Hakanson Kadas for the degree of Master of Science in the Interdisciplinary Studies Program: Historic Preservation to be taken .June 1991 Title: IN THE SHADOW OF NEAHKAHNIE: NORTHWEST REGIONAL STYLE BEGINNINGS Approved: Leland M. Roth, Chair This thesis is the study of the North Oregon coastal community of Neahkahnie, its history and the events leading up to its development, the subsequent summer artist colony, and the early architecture as designed by members of this summer group. It discusses the antecedents of these struc tures and their accommodations to site and available mater ials. Individuals important in this 1912 to 1916 period were: A. E. Doyle, designer of four early cottages at Neah- kahnie, and Ellis F. Lawrence, designer of the Neahkahnie Tavern and one cottage. Both were Portland, Oregon, archi tects , Finally, the thesis documents the early expressions of the Northwest Regional Style, as illustrated in domestic architecture. Two later architects, among several, who refined the Northwest Regional style and whose work typifies the style were Pietro Belluschi and John Yeon. The develop ment and true flowering of the Northwest Regional Style began in the late 1930s. VITA NAME OF AUTHOR: Marianne Hakanson Kadas PLACE OF BIRTH: Bandon, Oregon DATE OF BIRTH: March 18, 1932 GRADUATE AND UNDERGRADUATE SCHOOLS ATTENDED: University of Oregon Umpqua Community College San Francisco State College Portland State College Linfield College DEGREES AWARDED: Master of Science, 1991, University of Oregon Bachelor of Arts, 1954, University of Oregon AREAS OF SPECIAL INTEREST: Vernacular Architecture Social Factors Influencing Architecture Alternative and Rehabilitative Housing ACKNOWLEDGMENTS My thanks to my thesis committee. Chair Leland Roth, Philip Dole, and George McMath, for their encouragement, advice, and insightful editing. To Department Head Michael Shellenbarger and my advisor Philip Dole, for their scholarly inspiration. To my fellow preservation students, for their friend ship and good humor. To Jean Reed Prentiss, daughter of Sam and Beulah Reed and Neahkahnie native, for sharing her wonderful Neahkahnie memories with me. And to my children and the rest of my family, who sup ported and encouraged me in this venture. vixi TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION Notes I. EARLY HISTORY; A MOUNTAIN OF MYSTERY Notes II. TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL: AROUND THE MOUNTAIN AND TO THE BEACH . . . . . Notes III. EARLY DAYS AND SAM REED'S FIRST VISIT . . . . Notes IV. PROMOTIONS: "THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SPOT ON THE PACIFIC COAST" Notes V. NEAHKAHNIE RESIDENTS: ARTISTS IN RESIDENCE . . Notes VI. THE NEAHKAHNIE TAVERN: AN ECHO OF THE PAST . . Notes VII. THE NEAHKAHNIE COTTAGES: GLIMPSES OF THE FUTURE Notes VIII. THE NORTHWEST REGIONAL STYLE: WHERE IT ALL STARTED Notes LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Map Page 1. North Oregon Coast, 1910 13 2. Northwest Section of Tillamook County, Oregon 26 3. Neahkahnie and Historic Structures 28 LIST OF FIGURES 1. Neahkahnie Tavern, Northeast Side, c. 1920 . . 2. Neahkahnie Tavern, Southwest Side, c. 1920 . . 3. Library (Isom) Cottage, 1912 4. Cadwell-Povey Cottage, c. 1913-1914 5. Doyle Cottage, Northeast Side, c. 1920 6. Doyle Cottage, North Side 7. Wentz Cottage, East Side . 8. Wentz Cottage, North Side 9. Wentz Cottage, Southeast Side 10. Wentz Cottage, South Side 11. Jennings Sutor House, 1938 12. Pietro Belluschi House, 1937 13. Kenneth Swan House, 1950 14. James Grieve House, 1960 INTRODUCTION The beach has always been a traditional place for Slimmer excursions, vacations, and a less structured way of life. The settlement called Neahkahnie on the north Oregon coast is but one of many such resort developments that attracted vacationers in the early part of this century. Even before early railroad access to Oregon beaches, fami lies made the arduous trip from inland valleys to the coast by steamer and wagon to their destinations. The first rail road to the coast was constructed in 1898 going from Port land to the Seaside-Gearhart area.^ Many Portland families took advantage of this easy mode of travel and acquired beach property. Also around the turn of the century the railroad to the area of Long Beach, Washington, was com pleted and another beach resort area blossomed. First accommodations were "tent cities" where families could rent a space for a tent with other facilities nearby. Later developments included two and three-story hotel such as the rambling two and one half-story Gearhart Hotel designed by Portland architect Emil Schacht in 1907, built in 1910, and destroyed by fire in 1915.^ A three-story replacement hotel designed by Morris Whitehouse in the Shingle Style opened in Gearhart in 1923 and accommodated guests until it was demolished in 1972.^ All such coastal expansion depended on available trans portation. When Sam Reed, Portland businessman and entre preneur, visited the Nehalem-Neahkahnie area in 1906, he immediately recognized its potential and began working toward transportation routes for the future. When, five years later in 1911, the railroad did link the Nehalem area with the population center of Portland, Reed was ready with a platted residential area and by the next year could pro vide comfortable overnight accommodations at the Neahkahnie Tavern for visitors. The accessible, yet relatively iso lated situation at Neahkahnie encouraged visitors to make a relatively long visit, by today's standards; the Reeds' Neahkahnie Tavern was the community center offering a hospitable haven. Whether by chance or good fortune, some of the earliest investors in Neahkahnie property were people interested in the arts and architecture. Portland architect A. E. Doyle bought property there in 1912.^ Other early Neahkahnie property owners were Anna Belle Crocker, who was the first curator of the Portland Art Museum beginning in 1909, and Multnomah County Librarian Mary Francis Isom, who purchased a beach lot in 1912.^ An additional artistic ambience was given to the early summer community by Harry Wentz, founder and head of the Art School at the Portland Art Museum and who bought his Neahkahnie property in 1914. These four were early members of the Portland Sketch Club, a drawing and study group formed about 1895 by interested citizens and meeting at the Portland Art Museum. This group, joined by Portland architect Ellis Lawrence, who was a frequent visi tor at Neahkahnie, formed the nucleus of an architecture- and painting-oriented assemblage that has had far-reaching influence in the architecture of the Northwest. From 1912 to 1916 A. E. Doyle designed four beach cot tages at Neahkahnie, the last for Harry Wentz and in col laboration with him. It is this cottage that has become known as the particular forerunner of the Northwest Regional style of architecture. This thesis will examine the Neah kahnie area and its particular influence. It will introduce some of the arts community there in the early part of the century, and show some of the beginnings of the Northwest Regional style and how it grew from minimal, but distinc tive, beach cottages to a full-fledged architectural style with distinguished identifying elements. Notes 1. George McMath, "Emerging Regional Style," in Space. Style and Structure, ed. Thomas Vaughan and Virginia Guest Ferriday (Portland: Oregon Historical Society, 1974), 341. 2. Patricia Sackett, "The Architecture of Emil Schacht" (Master's thesis. University of Oregon, Eugene, 1990), 6. 3. Elisabeth Walton Potter, "The Motor Age," in Space. Style and Structure, ed. Thomas Vaughan and Virginia Guest Ferriday (Portland: Oregon Historical Society, 1974), 524. 4. County Clerk's Office, Deed Books, Tillamook County Courthouse, Tillamook, Oregon. 5. Dean Collins, "Portland's Successful Women," Port land Oreaonian. 13 December 1914 (Portland Art Museum file, Oregon Historical Society, Portland, Oregon). CHAPTER I EARLY HISTORY: A MOUNTAIN OF MYSTERY For centuries the beautiful and mysterious Neahkahnie Mountain has been the inspiration for legends, imaginative ramblings, and creative and artistic endeavors. Throughout its long and colorful history, the two words most often used to describe it are "beautiful" and "mysterious." A short journey through its history will show why these words are fitting descriptions for the jutting promontory rising 1,750 feet on the north coast of Oregon. The name "Neah-Kah-Nie," as it was originally spelled, has several possible derivations. Lewis McArthur refers to it as "a place of mystery and romance." Silas B. Smith says that "Neah-Kah-Nie" meant the precipice overlooking the ocean, the abode of "Ekahni" the supreme God. Perhaps it derives from the Clatsop word "acarna" meaning "chief deity." Mrs. Edward Gervais, a Nehalem Indian, tells a traditional tale of shipwrecked Spanish survivors calling "carne" meaning "meat" when they saw elk on the mountain side. Furthermore, "Ne" is the Indian prefix meaning "place" or "village," as in Neskowin, Nehalem, or Necanicnm.^ Indian habitation of the Neahkahnie-Nehalem area recedes into the distant past. The Nehalems were a small tribe, a mingling of the more powerful Clatsops to the north and the Tillamooks to the south. The rich hunting grounds in the Nehalem Valley provided food although few Indians actually settled there. Fish and seafood were also plenti ful and easy to catch.^ By 1870 when the first white settlers arrived, the number of Indians living in the area was estimated at twelve to twenty. They claimed to be descendants of the Siletz tribe and were scattered along the river bank in small groups.^ There are many tales of sea vessels passing by or visiting the Nehalem area. Early legends tell of Chinese junks being blown ashore, but these tales have never been properly documented. Better documented is another account; in 1592 a Spanish ship, captained by Juan de Fuca, sailed along the west coast of the North American continent.^ In 1602-03 a Spanish ship with Sebastian Vizcaino as her cap tain sailed north from present-day California, but probably sailed only as far north as Cape Blanco.^ One of the mysteries of the north Oregon coast which has long been a subject of speculation is the "Beeswax ship." Indian legends told of a shipwreck and large quantities of beeswax as cargo. It is now known that the wax was a high quality Philippine beeswax, called Ghedda beeswax, highly prized by the Roman Catholic Church for tapers and candles. Over the years, tons of this wax, often covered with mysterious markings, have been uncovered near Nehalem beaches. In fact, it was so conation that it was used as a legitimate trading material by Indians.® The wax is now usually thought to have been cargo on the "San Francisco Xavier," a ship of 1,000 tons sailing in 1707 under Captain Santiago Zabalburn."' Another theory regarding the beeswax places it as cargo in the "San Jose" sailing from La Paz in 1769. This ship was one of three setting out for San Diego; the other two finally arrived at their destination, but the "San Jose" was lost and could have been blown northward to the Oregon coast. This version of the "beeswax ship" is cited by his torian Silas B. Smith.® When the beeswax was first noted by the early settlers and for some years afterward, there was much discussion as to whether it was indeed beeswax or a petroleum substance coming to the surface of the earth naturally and indicating the presence of oil. Some drilling for oil actually took place around 1910 with no notable success and the project was abandoned.® As late as 1973, a 45-pound piece of bees wax was discovered at Nehalem Beach near Manzanita.^® A second and more tantalizing mystery surrounding Neahkahnie has to do with the "treasure ship" and the buried treasure that has eluded discovery for decades. According to Indian legend, the seime ship that carried the beeswax also put ashore on Nehalem Beach a small boat carrying three or four sailors and a large chest. The men carried the chest up Neahkahnie Mountain where they buried it, then killed the black man who was with the group, laid his body over the chest, and covered all with earth. Another version of the story tells of three ships en gaging in battle off the coast, with a small boat from one of them coming ashore to carry out the burial of the treas ure on the southwest side of Neahkahnie Mountain. Myster ious marks on rocks are said to point to the treasure or indicate its location. Over the years many people have searched for the treas ure without success. An early story tells of both Hudson Bay Company traders, and Astor's fur-trading company em ployees, in the early 1800s, returning to Astoria from Neahkahnie with a heavily-loaded pack train and little to say of their mission. Speculation was that the treasure had been found and was carried in the pack train but no evidence of this has ever been found. People from many parts of the United States have come to look for the treasure, some devoting a summer and some staying on for years. Spiritualism and Biblical passages have guided some; others depended on the moss-covered rocks with mysterious inscriptions, or various calculations. None were more persistent than Pat Smith whose efforts covered decades beginning about 1890. His summers were spent digging on Neahkahnie Mountain and his winters in Tillamook earning a grub stake. However diligent the hunter, no treasure was ever found. The last truly serious large- scale effort was made in 1966 when Tony Mareno, guided by certain Biblical passages, began a dig. Mareno searched at the foot of Neahkahnie Mountain, but found no treasure. The alleged treasure remains a mystery to this day. Several ships have been wrecked near Neahkahnie Moun tain and the Nehalem River. The two most famous shipwrecks both occurred in 1913. The first when the German bark MiTni ran aground in February of that year. In the foggy weather, the Captain thought he was at the mouth of the Colximbia and rode the ship in. With its steel hull, the Mimi suffered no damage, so a rescue was attempted. A mistake was made in removing the ballast, however, and this resulted in the ship turning on its side, claiming the lives of four of the twenty men on board at the time. The second and more per plexing of the wrecks occurred when the British windjammer Glenesselin ran aground in broad daylight and under full sail in sight of the Neahkahnie Tavern. No lives were lost and the navigational error remains a mystery to this day. Notes 1. Lewis L. McArthur, Oregon Geographic Names (Port land, Ore: Western Imprints, 1982), 534. 2. Samuel J. Cotton, Stories of Nehalem (Chicago: M. A. Donahue, 1915), 41. 3. Ibid., 42. 4. Jim Gibbs, Oregon's Salty Coast (Seattle, Wash.: Superior Pub., 1978), 20. 5. Samuel Dicken, The Western Shore: Oregon Countm Essays. ed. Thomas Vaughan (Portland: Oregon Historical Society, Durham & Downey, 1976), 35. 6. Ibid., 37. 7. Gibbs, Oregon's Salty Coast. 21. 8. Cotton, Stories of Nehalem. 54. 9. Dicken, The Western Shore. 37. 10. Gibbs, Oregon's Salty Coast. 30. 11. Ibid., 31. 12. Cotton, Stories of Nehalem. 55. 13. Gibbs, Oregon's Salty Coast. 31. 14. Cotton, Stories of Nehalem. 58. 15. Laura Owens, "Neah-kah-nie Mountain: Past, Pres ent, and Future," (Nahelem. Oregon^ Fishrapper. 21 August 1980, 21. 16. Cotton, Stories of Nehalem. 59. CHAPTER II TRANSPORTATION AND TRAVEL; AROUND THE MOUNTAIN AND TO THE BEACH The Neahkahnie-Manzanita-Nehalem area is located on the north Oregon coast about forty miles south of Astoria. It is approximately sixty miles west of Portland (see map 1). In the early part of the twentieth century, large-scale development of beach property depended almost entirely on the availability of train travel. Neahkahnie Mountain's 1,750-foot bulk effectively stopped railroad passage from the north and contributed to the area's isolation and rela tively late development. The geography of Neahkahnie Mountain has always been a major factor in the area's history. The story of travel and transportation over and around Neahkahnie Mountain reads as a history of overcoming a difficult obstacle. Neahkahnie Mountain is a mass of basalt, the result of an eruption occurring about 20 million years ago during the Miocene Age when this part of the Coast Range was still under water. Hug Point, Arch Cape, Cape Falcon, and Tillamook Head are also basalt headlands. Other parts of the adjoining 0 j Y/iJ-.r£rai90 SHOWING MAP LOCATION vA Ncah-kah-nic Mt. FROM U. S. OOVERNMtNT SURVEY: FINAL RIGHT OF WAV OF P. R U, N. COS. RAILROAD. DOTTED LINE INDICATES INCOMPLETED SECTION. '*J KEY TO REFERENCE NUMBERS ON MAP I —Astoria Columbia River Railroad (O Seaside. 8-Tillatnook Bay. 2—Tillarnook Head, 9-9-VViljon Kiver wagon road from Forest Grove to Tillamook. 3—Arch Cape, where one fork of the Neah-kah-nieTrail leaves 10-IO-Trask River wagon road from NorthYamhill to Tillamook. (he beach. i I-l l-Sheridan-Dolph wagon road toTillamook.throughGrande 4—Cape Falcon, over which ihe other fork of Neah-kah-nie Ronde reservation. Trail leads. 12 —Cape Lookout, the fanhest southern point seen from Neah- 5—Town of Vosburgh. from which point to Tillamook, (he rail kah-nie Mountain. road is operadng. NOTE The double line from Seaside to Nehalcm, indtcaica ihc old Indian 6—Entrance to Nehnlem Bay. irail trom ihc Titlaimiok counUY into Aworia, which it now bcin|r apidly 7—Garibaldi Beach. iranaiormcd into • dclialiilwl tcenic auioanobilc road. Map 1. North Oregon Coast, 1910. Source: U Government Survey, "Map Showing Location of Neah-kah-nie Mountain" (Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1910). northern coastline, however, are formed of soft mudstone and sandstone which have weathered away to make sandy beaches.^ The first recorded journey over Neahkahnie Mountain was made in 1841 by John H. Frost, a Methodist missionary at Clatsop Plains. Accompanied by Solomon Smith, Lewis Taylor, a former sailor, an Indian guide, and a horse. Frost and his company journeyed down the coast to the Little Nestucca River near Tillamook where they turned eastward and even tually arrived at the missions in the Willamette Valley. Frost's account offers a classic description of travel over Neahkahnie Mountain; his description takes up five pages in his published journal and he describes the trail as "not much wider than a man's two hands. The group returned with cattle and horses, the journey taking six weeks. In fact, nearly a century would pass before a passable road was finally completed over the headland. Until the railroad was completed to Tillamook in 1911, coastal residents depended on water transport. For many years the tugboat Vosbura. often towing the barge "Nehalem," travelled between Portland and Nehalem Bay with lumber, household goods, building supplies, foodstuffs, cars and passengers. In May of 1911, the Nehalem Enterprise reported that S. G. Reed had booked his household goods and auto on the Vosbura.^ In 1905 "the Pacific Railroad and Navigation Company (P. R. & N.) was incorporated; the company was headed by E. E. Lytle and was heavily financed by the Union Trust Company of San Francisco, a Southern Pacific Company. A rail line had already been constructed to Hillsboro, so work began westward from there; work also began from the Tilla- mook end of the line.^ Delays plagued the final construc tion, but the track was completed between Tillamook and Nehalem in August of 1910.^ In December of 1910, when a huge slide occurred in the Coast Range, 40 men were required to clear the site, suspending the laying of track for a month.® In an effort to reassure coastal residents that the railroad work was progressing, in February of 1911 developer Sam Reed walked the thirty-five unfinished miles from Timber to Batterson Place in one day and reported that "the road bed is in excellent condition, the bridges substantial, and the tunnels nearly complete."^ On March 19, 1911, the Nehalam Enterprise reported that the supply of railroad ties was exhausted, but the Vosbura arrived with a new supply on April 21.® Also advertised in the newspaper of that date was a trial trip from Neahkahnie to Tillamook and back, com plete with baseball team and band, for a round trip cost of $1.00. The Pacific Railway and Navigation Company's first train from Portland arrived in Nehalem on October 9, 1911, and was given "a rousing welcome."^ The P. R. and N. was "a railroad man's railroad"—a marvel of engineering and construction.^® Its 91-mile run passed through 13 tunnels, the longest with a bore of 1,437 feet, and over 35 bridges 100 feet in length, as well as numerous shorter bridges. The Coast Range canyons along the Salmonberry River route chosen for the track necessitated a constant succession of sharp curves, including one with a 15 degree maximum. Grades climbed to 3 percent in the 34-mile pull from Wheeler (a few feet above sea level), to Cochran on the Coast Range (stimmit at 1,805 feet). Built at a cost of around $5 million, the P. R. and N. soon came to be called "The Punk, Rotten, and Nasty" because of the rough terrain, constant slides, and difficulty of maintenance.^^ Heavy snows and toppled trees were a constant threat when storms raged across the mountains; cross-cut saws stood in the ends of the cars and passengers often helped in clearing the tracks so the train could proceed. Helper engines were called on to get trains up the steep grades. Passenger trains, usually composed of five or six cars, could go over the top with only one helper, but excursion trains, which were frequent in the summer months, often needed four loco motives to do the job. Travel time between Portland and Tillamook was from five to five and one-half hours. Passengers with Neahkahnie as their destination left the train at Mohler or Wheeler, crossed the Nehalem River on the launch Juneta, and were taken by "jitney," a motorized vehicle provided by the Reeds, over a wooden corduroy road to Neahkahnie. When passenger travel declined in the early 1930s, the line was reduced to a freight operation. After the disastrous Tillamook fires in 1931, 1936, and 1941, the railroad, although severely damaged by the fires, played an important part in salvage operations for many years.15 During its last years of operation, the P. R. and N. was used as a freight line, mainly hauling logs from the Coast Range to mills on the west side of the mountains. In the summer of 1989, however, an excursion train operated on the P. R. and N. line from Tillamook to Nehalem. Future plans call for re-opening the line from Tillamook to Portland. The locally-famed Neahkahnie mail trail over the west face of the mountain had been in use for centuries as an Indian trail and was the route taken by Frost and his com panions in 1841. The trail was followed by the pack train that carried mail, passengers, and baggage between Seaside and Nehalem from about 1880 until the completion of the railroad in 1911. The pack train consisted of as many as fifteen horses, depending on the demand for passenger ser vice. Travelers on this route often arrived soaked by salt spray from the climb around Hug Point and Humbug Point. Although the trail was widened somewhat after Frost's jour ney, the trek over Neahkahnie Mountain was not for the faint-hearted. When the Reeds journeyed to Neahkahnie to make their home there in 1911, Mr. Reed and his daughter Marion rode over the trail; Mrs. Reed, who was pregnant, was not allowed to ride but had to walk from Cannon Beach to Neahkahnie! The story of automobile road-building on the Oregon Coast is also a tale fraught with drama and perils. In September, 1912, a "pathfinder" automobile arrived at the newly-finished Neahkahnie Tavern. Its mission was to map the entire Pacific Coast in preparation for the 1915 Panama Exposition at San Francisco. Much of the travel for this car would have been on the beach below the tide mark and naturally depended on when the tide was out. Other guests that week at the Tavern were 50 Mazama hikers from Portland making a 26-mile one-day ramble from the Neahkahnie Tavern to Seaside. The first portions of the Coast Highway were laid in 1914, a two-mile strip section of bituminous pavement near Seaside and a short section of concrete pavement six inches thick and eight feet wide near Astoria. Car travel from Portland to the Neahkahnie area at this time, and until the completion of the coast highway in 1941, was through Forest Grove and the Coast Range to a point near the Highway 53 Junction, then south on that route. The road was paved in the late 1920s; before that time most of the road was graveled with some sections of corduroy road. These were typical road conditions during the historic period of coas tal development. In 1917 the Oregon legislature, at the initiative of Senator I. S. Smith of Coos and Curry counties, petitioned Congress to build a military highway along the Pacific Coast from Canada to Mexico. Two years later, in 1919, Represen tative B. F. Jones from Lincoln County and others secured from the Oregon legislature authority for a bond issue of $2,599,000 to aid the federal government in building the Roosevelt Coast Military Highway. In 1919 projects were undertaken in Tillamook and Curry counties. In 1922 the Neskowin-Devils Lake section was completed, and in 1932 the Sutton Lake, Florence and Gardiner sections were finished. State Highway Commission Chairman Leslie M. Scott spoke at the dedication of the Gold Beach Bridge across the Rogue River in May 1932, commemorating the completion of the last phase of the highway. However, in 1933 five major coastal bridges remained to be put out to bid, including Yaquina Bay, Alsea Bay, Umpqua River, and Coos Bay.19 In 1928 the highway name was changed to the Oregon Coast Highway.20 the time of its dedication in 1932, the highway was just over 396 miles in length. The largest portion, 168 miles, had an oil-rock surface.21 This highway, however, went neither over nor around Neahkahnie Mountain, but instead left the coast 20 miles north at Seaside and followed the Necanicum River eastward nine miles to the town of Necanicvim, then turned southwest- ward, again arriving at the ocean near Nehalem and Wheeler, following approximately the route of Highway 53 of today. As a Tillamook County Commissioner, Sam Reed worked for many years to bring the road around Neahkahnie Mountain and by the late 1920s a narrow road had been blasted out at an elevation of 570 feet above the ocean and slightly lower than the location of the old Neahkahnie mail trail.22 state policy at that time was to build all new roads to one stan dard—straight as Roman roads. Some concerned citizens felt a straight road would be damaging to the face of Neahkahnie Mountain and proposed a widening of the lower route. This was eventually the route chosen by the Highway Department with the incorporation of half-bridges and scenic observa tion points a part of the highway construction. This last section of Coast Highway 101 from Seaside to Nehalem was formally opened in August of 1941. Sam Board- man, sometimes called the father of the state park system. was also interested in the Neahkahnie area and was instru mental in the formation of Oswald West State Park, origi nally called Short Sand Beach State Park, on the north side of Neahkahnie Mountain. Large portions of this park were given to the State by E. S. Collins and Sam Reed. The curved bridge near the park parking lot was named for Sam Reed.23 with the completion of this section of the Coast Highway 101, the beach-side auto transportation link was ready for the major population growth which followed World War II and began to drastically change the beach resort towns. Notes 1. David D. Alt and Donald Hyndman, Roadside Geology of Oregon (Missoula, Mont.: Mountain Press, 1988), 85. 2. John H. Frost, "Journal," ed. Nellie H. Pipes, Oregon Historical Quarterly 35 (September 1934): 242. 3. "Local News," Nehalem Enterprise. 5 March 1911 (Archives, Knight Library, University of Oregon, Eugene); hereafter, references will read "Local News" with the rele vant date; this column always appeared on page 1. 4. George Abdill, "Pacific Railway and Navigation Company," Scenes Along the Pacific Railway and Navigation bine (N.p.: Pacific Northwest Electric Railway Association, n.d.), n.p., brochure, souvenir edition. 5. "Local News," 8 September 1910. 6. Ibid., 12 December 1910. 7. Ibid., 2 February 1911. 8. Ibid., 21 April 1911. 9. Abdill, "Pacific Railway and Navigation Company," n.p. 10. Ellis Lucia, "Southern Pacific Branch Line Crosses Famous Tillamook Burn," Oregon Journal. 28 September 1958, n.p. 11. Abdill, "Pacific Railway and Navigation Company," 12. Ellis Lucia, "Historic Railroad Line Lost in Burn," The Times. 21 September 1983, p. 3; this refers to the "Tillamook Burn" forest fires. 13. "Travel on the P. R. & n.," Portland Oregonian. 29 October 1961, n.p. (Portland Art Museum file, Oregon His torical Society, Portland, Oregon). 14. Nehalem Bay United Methodist Church, 100 Years of the Nehalem Country (Nehalem Bay: Pacific Yearbook Co., 1970), 30. 15. Jean Reed Prentiss, Tillamook: Lest We Forget (Tillamook, Ore.: Tillamook Pioneer Association, 1979), 69- 70. 16. Ibid., 33. 17. "Local News," 6 September 1912. 18. Leslie M. Scott, Chairman State Highway Commis sion, [Transcription of speech], Portland Oreaonian. 22 May 1932 (Oregon Historical Society, Portland, Oregon). 19. Ibid. 20. "Coast Highway," Portland Oreaonian. 23 June 1974 (Portland Art Museum file, Oregon Historical Society, Port land, Oregon). 21. Scott, [Transcription of speech], 22 May 1932. 22. Prentiss, Tillamook. 35. 23. Ibid. CHAPTER III EARLY DAYS: SAM REED'S FIRST VISIT While other river ports on the Oregon Coast, such as Coos Bay, Tillamook, and the Umpcpia River, developed through the shipping of lumber, fish, and dairy products in the 1850s and 1860s, the Nehalem area did not. The culprit was the Nehalem River and its tendency to silt up, a condition brought on during the freshet season when heavy rains and melting snow in the mountains caused the river to overflow its banks with erosion as the result. The channel of the river was unreliable for river traffic until a jetty was built around 1910. The Nehalem-Neahkahnie area attracted some settlers, however, as early as 1869 when John Crawford took up a Home stead Claim on Neahkahnie Mountain. He proved up his claim there, sold it, and moved to Tillamook in 1877.^ More settlers arrived in the 1870s including William Snyder who settled at the lake on what is now known as Classic Ridge. This property was later purchased by Mr. and Mrs. J. H. Edwards who made it the summer home of the Oregon Conserva tory of Music.2 In 1870 the first mail route was established in Tilla- mook County following the coastline from Astoria and into the Nehalem area over the Neahkahnie Trail.^ By 1890 the first sawmill was in operation with the Iximber milled there supplementing the highly-prized building materials that washed up on the beach.^ Transport of lumber and supplies was mainly by tugboat until the arrival of the railroad in 1911. Fishing, logging, and farming were the mainstays of the local economy. When Sam Reed arrived in the Nehalem area in 1906 with other members of the Portland Chamber of Commerce, the group had travelled by stage through McMinnville and Willamina coming north on the coast to look at properties for invest ment purposes. The reality of tourism and resort construc tion was still in the future for this part of the coast (see map 2). Reed was deeply impressed with the beauty of Neah kahnie and in the next year began buying land and also began his long-term project of obtaining good roads in Tillamook County.^ Much of the Neahkahnie Mountain property was at that time owned by William Batterson who used it as a cattle ranch. The Indian custom of burning off the land yearly to keep it free for grazing had been continued, thus the fields were open and free of trees, much different from the brushy, forested landscape of today. There were no houses on the 5 1 - /( (('/ ̂ ^ Cape Falcon F/^LSE Ti 8^ 8®, ,v-TAi/'o // /|o/£;r( 'O. "fi _: UJ—fc! ^ / /7 . ^ jn vj.^\r^r L^cXA^ I \\m fi£AHKAHNte \ '\\.\\^ CLA3SIC ^/OCCl hit /^ANZANITA 1 I \\i'l; \\\V,\'rf nkcakney CfTyjiil'^ ^2-A aa/v.3£'r S£-AC«|li y=a^ a/zaaacm ft /H^flr/iv-j ^ NEHAI-EM BAY llnli '2' HCHAUEf^ BCACH \ '7/!f»SST?«g MANHATTAN zar-f 2 7, 2« MQRQHCYi j BSAC'S AOO-lilir:^^^, , /70C/f/4vv/^rj £L.MOR£ -II- / J \6 \J'TVYtN /*osr c;rv BCACN » flfliHit oc£a/v 8 a I . lo BA K v/fyv.Vajl '7 / s HJ /J -VsPw,'?;- -.yc * i.i i i::::.;!?,*!,.:) " - .* ■ 1 i::':ii i|v' [ ft.' n ,,,. ,,, ̂ ,. ■ ' I' j ̂ s jitr 'ii: .ifihl ,. ., lilh|li||h,i,l|i,, ,:flif^ >1f Fig. 3. Library (Isom) Cottage, 1912. Source; Author, 1991 '- jgM -k'4 f, ■ j*r"' I *■ »■ It I ■■ .«- " ' f , ^' iI:J®,r«^ ;l: ■ •: • ,- ,,i; ■ ■ ;;: j J, .ji,;'-/!!:; ,)r:"i| ■ ;y;, : »r%vy Jw V 3 m „.i,s.uti.; :3V. • -I ,:. ■, (:: ■■ ■ i,;:' ,, © m life:.-' '"ii*ii!ili!*l L llSM I-Til i 1 I pAiii I 1 -.. > •V.#- ■/T- fipliiS flih t IKP^ Fig. 5. Doyle Cottage, northeast side, c. 1920. Source: Oregon Historical Society. <1111 1( 1 '" I , , ' ' 'i|ii'1 ■ ' "■ ^|f'i: ' ■ illii! ''vf! f9 .; .v/':<;' ■> .j^,::' r jirt ,/' i jT- as ,1* 'fi't.i'hfe.: n^nm .1, .^Jit Fig. 6. Doyle Cottage, north side. Source: Author, 1991. ta m ■■■ !"2 ''V * j.i ''Vt'r ., • ■ ■ •k«i f:f% W" . "-.p !^V.# » i ^T''» « J* s« m ; i wC' ifti *: i. , K wiftel ^" 1 ii'H, :" •irf 14*??; m i S#:::>if Fig. 7. Wentz Cottage, east side. Source; Author, 1991. r? % V Ig m ' ̂ 2,'; A ; f. |;!|iii:'[Ni(li- .iiB L ,' '*' ,,"""1 •■ '"""t' ;l!iij>(ii|i''! 'tii'i Isi; ■sjl l'i'iiiy:*. ; :.t'' i i '. , ; B fl-,X. ' '- ■ '-■."5,: u, . : ;. L ■ -f . .■■■S'! .. ,,1 . , .;, :tii;. . . i mm •i lI'Sii iijiiily'l li fS Ii't!?fi''!i!';l!i!a;! i |iii,:|ii ji "ifi;; W i; i ii! ISjiitl! ili r ,11 Itji ^ : ! - > f ii;.^! 'i f5 i|i I i I ;i;i lifijti' ij ;i|| liinti . I ' I ' ll 111!" ' llSl,li!i:f!:i i'ii'ijillilill'a-ilri l'llilfi ii' llliig^ Fig. 8. Wentz Cottage, north side. Source: Author, 1991. Fig. 9. Wentz Cottage, sourtheast side. Source: Author, 1991 ri-f 4# w m & ri*; 1 « «w. i w t-t m fe rilWliW T •*» i n 2* % »? ?¥ Wa I ft i fs » «: r« % i. '*- * -Pie;'lfe ,:i"'!!i;l |:j-i. !f: Wii « m :;!:f:;i;i:. ! i Fig. 10. Wentz Cottage, south side. Source: Author, 1991. CHAPTER VIII NORTHWEST REGIONAL STYLE: WHERE IT ALL STARTED In her 1946 book of reminiscences of Portland in and around the turn of the century, Anna Belle Crocker writes two thinly-disguised assessments: A young architect's assistant, who had worked in the evening life classes, won a scholarship taking him to New York, mainly, as he told us, through the portfolio of drawings he submitted with his architectural de signs. He became one of the best architects of the town at that time, and, before his early death, the youngest president of the museum's Board of Trustees.^ We were fortunate in having early an instructor who remained throughout my time our chief reliance, an inspiration to his students. While always entirely h^self in his work, this, in quality, ranged itself with that of a small niuaber of teachers of art, then in America, who at that time, were opening fresh vistas to their pupils. He believed in work, not in words; his strength lying in his direct relations with responsive students; he met them where they were and imparted a quietly dynamic stimulus.^ These two appraisals referred to Albert E. Doyle and Harry Wentz, respectively, the two men whose influence on design in the Northwest manifested itself in a recognized architectural style in the late 1930s and early 1940s. It is generally accepted that the Neahkahnie cottages were the primary inspiration for the Northwest Regional style, a clear concentration of the elements that were later expanded and refined to produce residences, churches, and small commercial buildings with regional characteristics. Quoting from George McMath's article in Space. Style, and Structure: "Doyle and Wentz collaborated on this design (the Wentz cottage) which 20 years later became one of the inspirations for the so-called Northwest Style developed by Belluschi, John Yeon and others. Architectural writer Jo Stubblebine writes: "The Wentz studio cottage is considered by most of the architects of this region as being the prototype or beginning of Northwestern contemporary domestic architec ture. " ̂ The philosophy behind any architectural style should be related to its area, time and place in time, climate, setting, and social conditions. The sympathetic accommoda tion of all these elements is the aim of the sensitive designer and, if successful, the resulting product will express a region's characteristics. Quoting from Frozen Music by Gideon Bosker and Lena Lencek: "According to [George] McMath, the Wentz philosophy espoused 'the idea of a simple, organic, informal architecture using native mater ials and showing a respect for the site and the Oregon countryside'. The Northwest Regional style first appeared in the late 1930s when there had been a pause of eight to ten years in the building trades. From the 1929 Crash through the early and mid-1930s, building was at a near standstill, the excep tions being some government projects for medium and large- scale buildings such as post offices. Residential construc tion, where the Northwest Regional style was first explored, had most recently gone through a phase of period styles, adaptations and interpretations of other cultures and coun tries. By the late 1930s, the period styles had lost their spontaneity. In an area where wood is the most common and readily available building material, a tradition grows naturally; for instance, in a temperate climate that does not require heavy insulation, wood is a perfectly suitable building material. Whereas earlier buildings used wood to emulate stone and other building materials, the Neahkahnie cottages quietly celebrated wood at its natural best, milled to take advantage of its grain and size, as for example, in the twelve by one-inch spruce siding, with no artificial finishes. An abundance of wood of different varieties, some suitable for siding, some for framing, etc., encouraged new uses by innovative architects and builders. The most har monious building is one which utilizes native materials well; in the Northwest, the use of wood is fitting and proper. The climate was a strong factor in the emergence of the Northwest Regional style, first of all the roof with wide eaves to protect from the rain and control heat and light in the summer months, and an abundance of windows to let in available light on gray days. While not built in Central and Eastern Oregon to a great extent, the general form was easily adaptable to the harsher climate there. Setting is another important factor in the Northwest Regional style, both in the intimate setting of the building lot where orientation, natural landscaping, and view were considered, but also in the larger setting. The idea of a small and enclosed garden space using native plant materials was included in the plans, and was balanced by the expan sive, view-oriented outward-facing side of the building. The larger setting refers to living in an area where lumber was the main industry and the forest a real presence in the lives and livelihoods of many residents. While perhaps a romantic notion, there is also the suggestion that the Northwest Regional style building echoes the local land scape, the peaked roof a reminder of the ever—present mountains. After the gradual recovery from the Depression of the 1930s, social conditions were still a bit shaky in the late 1930s. An ostentatious show of great wealth would have been considered in poor taste by some, so these simply con structed, yet elegant, buildings answered the call for a distinguished yet unadorned structure. The richness of the Northwest Regional style lay in the fine design, excellent craftsmanship, and suitability of materials rather than a showy display of conspicuous elements. As is the case with any "style" or "ism", the compo nents are chosen for their suitability from diverse sources and blended in a fresh way appropriate to a new situation. Many influences played a part in the Northwest Regional style, ranging from Japanese to early English to American barns to the East Coast Shingle Style and the California houses of Greene and Greene and Bernard Maybeck. From the Japanese we can see a certain roof pitch and shape, and a spareness of detail and integration with the landscape.® The early English influence is only a hint, perhaps the shape of the building or its silhouette, recalling the rural buildings of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century England.^ The Shingle Style with H. H. Richardson as one of its finer interpreters can be seen as an influence, naturally in the shingle cladding, an envelope of shingles giving great textural interest and unifying the structure, and the be ginning of the open plan with the great "hall" as welcoming, ^H~Purpose room. The Shingle Style also emphasized the integration of inside to outside, mainly in the form of the spacious, wrap-round porch which evolved into an blending of interior and exterior spaces.® From California the Greene brothers and the Bay area architects were working toward a more informal residence, finely detailed and suited to the landscape.9 Bernard Maybeck and colleagues, of course, advocated a simplified lifestyle to go with their "simple" structures of native California redwood. Site placement was another important consideration for Maybeck. Frank Lloyd Wright's fine examples of the house as suited to its landscape and his spatial concepts of a large, uninterrupted living space were other influencing factors. Oregon barns, canneries and industrial architec ture provided an openness of space and structural honesty with beams, rafters, and other building members exposed to show their strength and function. ^2 On another and more local level, the Neahkahnie area itself contributed to the flowering of the Northwest Re gional style. The majesty of the Neahkahnie setting is in spirational. Two structures there are outstanding in their influence on future building in the Northwest. The Neahkah nie Tavern was a fine and very early example of an appropri ate, simple, wood building emphasizing the "wooden-ness" of the building material in its large shingles and interior rusticity. This handsomely-sited structure was a gathering place for students, artists, architects, and historians and must have had a subtle influence on their future work. The Wentz cottage, with Harry Wentz to guide discussions about the aesthetics and ethics of design, the natural and man- made environment, and the philosophy of architecture sti mulated the creativeness of the next generation of archi tects. The Northwest Regional style had a twenty-year long period of incubation, time for naturalness to ripen into a recognizable expression. Much has already been written about the Northwest Regional style and it has been adequately covered in other literature. As this thesis is primarily devoted to studying some of the events leading up to the appearance of that style, examples of it will be mentioned briefly. The two Oregon architects who first presented the Northwest Regional style in its recognizable form were Pietro Belluschi and John Yeon. Both had apprenticed in the A. E. Doyle office in the 1920s; Belluschi joined the Doyle firm in 1925 and was appointed chief designer for the firm in 1927. Belluschi continued with the firm, reorganizing it under his own name in 1943, until leaving to be Dean of the School of Architec ture and Planning at M.I.T. in 1950.^^ Yeon also worked in the Doyle office briefly in the 1930s while designing the Watzek house; he later worked in private practice. Bel luschi and Yeon were friends and disciples of Harry Wentz, whose philosophy of a fundamental concern for composition. form, respect for setting, and integrity of materials re sulted in a regional expression in art and architecture. The Aubrey Watzek house designed by John Yeon in 1937 and the Jennings Sutor house (figure 11) designed by Pietro Belluschi in 1938 are the two earliest and most note-worthy examples of the Northwest Regional style. Belluschi had designed a house for himself in 1936 (figure 12), but the Sutor house is considered to be a more representative and characteristic expression of the style. A later John Yeon design is the Kenneth Swan house (figure 13). The Menefee "ranch house" designed by Belluschi in 1948 is another adap tation of the style as suited to the Central Oregon setting. Some outstanding churches among many designed by Belluschi are the St. Thomas More in Portland, 1939, Zion Lutheran, Portland, Central Lutheran Church in Portland, 1950, and the Cottage Grove First Presbyterian Church, 1951. Other Portland architects working in the Northwest Regional style were Van Evera Bailey, Saul Zaik, John Storrs (figure 14), Bill Fletcher, Ken Richardson, Gil Davis, and others. The Northwest Regional style has many expressions; that is one of its strengths along with an elegance and timelessness that speak of nature, the mountains, and the forest. In her book Architecture Oregon Stvle. Rosalind Clark identifies the six characteristic elements of the Northwest Regional style; (1) Broad overhanging gable or hipped roofs covered with shingles, often with broken or asymmetrical slopes (2) Non-academic forms and details (3) Asymmetrical open floor plan (4) Large glass windows of various shapes (5) Wood-frame-construction with unfinished and unpainted siding of native woods (6) Integration of structure and environment.^^ In many important ways, the Neahkahnie cottages intro duced these distinctive features and thus provided the in spiration for the full-blown Northwest Regional style. This is but one more example of an architectural style as the end product of a fortuitous combination of setting in time and place, economic and social conditions, and the creative mind and spirit. Notes 1. Anna Belle Crocker, It Goes Deeper Than We Think (privately published, 1946), 46, private collection. 2. Ibid., 33. 3. McMath, "Emerging Regional Style," 345. 4. Jo Stubblebine, ed., "The Northwest Architecture of Pietro Belluschi" (New York: F. W. Dodge, 1953), 2. 5. Gideon Bosker and Lena Lencek, Frozen Music: A History of Portland Architecture (Portland, Ore.: Western Imprints, Press of the Oregon Historical Society, 1985), 91. 6. Libby Dawson Farr, "The Architecture of Pietro Belluschi" (master's thesis. Reed College, Portland, Oreqon, 1977), 140. 7. McMath, "Emerging Regional Style," 343. 8. Bosker and Lencek, Frozen Music. 91. 9. Ibid., 91. 10. Charles Keeler, The Simple Home (San Francisco, Calif.: P. Elder, 1904), 28. 11. Farr, "The Architecture of Pietro Bellluschi," 139, 12. Leland M. Roth, A Concise History of American Ar chitecture (Harper & Row: New York, 1979), 315. 13. Bosker and Lencek, Frozen Music. 97. 14. McMath, "Emerging Regional Style," 492. 15. Rosalind Clark, Architecture Oregon Style (Port land, Ore.: Professional Book Center, 1983), 215. r- .L I ■ >■ Ifk :■; ;■■■ ah ■ ^ , . !! |'! ■ ' ■ .: :i ; ■y;,,.';,- . /" ' ■ ■■S'-y,, I'liliiir'a;' - jr;y;V''«■''' j ■■■■' ,:v': : .^ ^^1 . jjjiiji APPENDIX NEAHKAHNIE PROMOTIONAL BROCHURE, 1910 Neah-K.ah-Nie Mountain The Most Beautiful Spot on the Pacific Coast FRONT COVER ILLUSTRATION SURF AT BASE OF NEAH-KAH-NIE MOUNTAIN. THE MOST PICTUR ESQUE EXHIBITION OF BREAKER EFFECTS ON THE OREGON COAST COPYRIGHTED BY GIFFORD By LEWIS M. HEAD Being a Brief Narrarive of an Actual Trip to Neah-Kah-Nie Motmtain, Made by the Author in the Summer of 1909, Accompanied by the Celebrated Landscape Photographer, Benj. A. Gifford. This Region is One That Would Belie the Most Enthusiastic Description of America's Best Writers. COPYRIGHT 1910 S. G. REED. PORTLAND, OREGON Neah-Kah o u n t a 1 n NEAH-KAH-NIE mountain is located on the Pacific Coast. 60 miles due west of Portland, 30 miles south of Astoria and 20 miles north of Tillamook. Within two and a half miles of the Pacific Railway & Navigation Company's new short line to the Coast, the proximity of Neah-kah-nie Mountain to Portland will appeal to everj; man and woman who prefers a Summer home in the midst of an environment so inspiring in natural scenic effect as to surpass any other resort on this or the Atlantic Coast. This mountain is the highest of a series of rugged promontories on the way south from Tillamook Head. These great, rocky projections into the sea constantly increase in ele vation until Neah-kah-nie, piercing the blue Oregon skies at an altitude of 1790 feet above sea level, reaches the loftiest height between Mount Tamalpais and the coast of British Columbia. The name of the mountain is Indian and so spelled by the government surveyors who worked in this region 50 years ago when the name, pronounced as above spelled, was in daily use among the surviving Indians and early pioneers. Corruptions have been made, Ecahnie, seeminglv preferred by the Oregon Historical Society, upon the authority of the late Silas B. Smith, whose mother was an Indian woman. Apparently for the sake of euphony and easy spelling, newcomers have entirely robbed the beautiful name of its Indian thrill, substituting Necamey, by far more Irish than Indian. All efforts on the part of old settlers and linguists with knowledge of the Pacific Coast Indian language, have failed to interpret the name of the mountain. By some it is thought to have reference to the Indian camping grounds at this point, where the aboriginees, for ages, passed the season while fishing in the Nehalem and Columbia rivers. Clam shell beds' from ten to fifteen feet deep, rich in relics of Indian culinary, indicate beyond doubt that these grounds have been utilized for years, perhaps centuries, beyond tbe traditions which have made Neah-kah-nie historical. Just south of the mountain, under the shelter of its majestic height, there extends a magnificent natural meadow, several hundred acres in size, literally covered with a velvety carpet of luxurious grass. While, for the most part, there are no trees in this great meadow, here and there are clumps of the most beautiful alder, fir and spruce. This splendid clear ing was the camping place, athletic ground and pasture of the red men. Beginning at the 500-foot elevation of the southern exposure of the mountain, the meadow rolls grace^lly m a distance of a mile and a half, to the breaking surf, terminating just where the highest wave of Winter ventures. More than a half dozen beautiful streams, starting from bub bling springs, each with an inexhaustible flow, keep the grass perpetually green, provide an abundance of fresh, cold water the year 'round, and have formed several of the prettiest ravines that can be found anywhere. The absence of trees on the west side of the mountain and its entire southern slope is explained by the fact that the Indians always set fire to the brush when breaking camp, to induce the growth of the tender grass in time for their home-coniing. This naked aspect of Neah-kah-nie adds to its ruggedness, and opens to full view its tremendous vertical precipices, the towering rocks and frowning summit. The east side is covered with a dense growth of timber. Beneath the trees is a forest floor, almost devoid of vegetation and as clean as a baseball diamond. Within its cool solitudes, silence reigns, disturbed only by the occasional whisk of the deer or at night by a prowling bear. As the eastern base is neared, the underbrush thickens and fallen timber impedes the progress, while fems and clinging vines give the appearance of a jungle. Around the sturdy coast front of Neah-kah-nie, at an elevation of 825 feet, directly above the roaring surf and never over 18 inches wide, is the famous Neah-kah-nie trail. This primitive right of way is the only overland route into Astoria. It is the only direct way to get to Clatsop Plains from the Tillamook country. This narrow path was blazed and trod by the early Indians on their trips to the Columbia River. In places, further north than Neah-kah-nie Mountain, evidence of the number of years the trail has been m use is T" M 'K IS .«»£ •i. ■^L. Finl actual *ie» «/ Nco^-^-nic Mountam, approaching from ike northt u had from ihe eoathem tlope of Cape F^eon, 4-- ;-r- ■ ■-- w ■i :i-- ja at a-=7" j'jSi * From the eoulh enJ of Short Sani Beach, one anjoy* a gUmpee of a perfect etranJ, a half mile long. observed by the depth it has been wom by moccasmed feet, being more than shoulder deep in places. In the year 1841, when this trail was in excellent condition, although very narrow and extremely dangerous for horses and cattle, the early pioneers, preferring not to hazard their belongings, drove the first cattle into Clatsop Plains, directly over the crest of the Beginning ihe romantic trail oround the moaniain. Neah*l(ak-nie Creek is one of the mott beautiful eireama entering the Pacific Ocean, The angler here finds ample'reeaard for hia joamejf. mountain, a most difficult undertaking. For years, however, the trail has been perfectly safe and the mail pack makes the trip both ways every day of the year. During the summer just passed, the Neah-kah-nie trail has been very popular. Scores of parties, starting out at Seaside or Elk Creek, have made the tramp to Neah-kah-nie Mountain, some of them going all the way to Newport. A more interesting, thrilling or healthful outing it would be impossible to imagine. A description of the route may come in handy during the approaching season. The trail leads down Cannon Beach from Elk Creek, around Hug Point, and then, at half or low tide, through Arch Cape and down a beautiful stretch of sand beach until further progress is stopped by the jagged rocks of Cape Falcon or False Tillamook, as it is frequently known. Leaving the hard sand, a short, brisk climb brings one to the beginning of the trail over the huge cape. Through fragrant woods, up hill and down, with now and then a glimpse of the sea far below, the trail suddenly breaks through the forests of Cape Falcon, revealing Neah-kah-nie Mountain in all its verdant grandeur, looming up into the clouds like some gigantic monster. This is the first view of the mountain beloved of the Indian, the most romantic contour on the Pacific Coast. Extending a half mile before, is the Short Sand Beach, dignified by no other name, . yet one of the most prepossessing and inaccessible beauty spots in Oregon. At low tide, the bathing beach here, over a quarter of a mile in width, is as nearly ideal as any in the United States. Beaching the south end, under the overhanging rocks of Neah-kah-nie Moun tain, a view toward the north shows the magnificent curve described by the shore line, with Buried deep in the t'oodt of //le mounMin, far from the iraili and haunts of men, are Neah'Ifah'nie Falls, plunging through roc^j> canyon walls to darif green pools helow. Photographed for the first time. the vertical clitTs of Xenli-kah-iiie on the south and tlie dark walls of Caiie Falcon to the north. In thi.s cove, ships have anchored and soundings have demonstrated that the depth of the water admits of the establishment of a harbor at little exjrense, as well as deep sea- fishing in .small boats during the Summer months. 9 ay^MeoBM IP^ The eritinal Mim trail tel»eea the Tillamaai country and Attoria. i«n( the only norland entrance ta the laUer city. Cape Falcon >. ^ N appears m (Ae background. Treasure Cove it themn al ihe left center. Leaving the beach after this delightful half mile and following Neah-kah-nie Creek, one of the most tempting trout streams m the State, which here enters the sea, the trail crosses through its cold waters two or three times, emerging a half mile further up at the real beginning of the trail around Neah-kah-nie Mountain. Right here, in the heart of the woods, far from railroad, wagon road or habitation, shaded all day, save a few minutes at high noon, a rustic bridge enables one to pause in contemplation before commencing the final climb of the mountain. The wild torrents of this rnountain water become impassable at this point at certain seasons of the year, except over this bridge. A half mile above this bridge, so deeply secluded as to have remained almost un known till now, are Neah-kah-nie Falls. On a very quiet day, a quick ear will distinguish the roar of these falls from the bridge. To see them is a different proposition—following the bed of the creek, wading waist deep, at times, between the vertical walls of a deep canyon. The nearer the approach, the more deafening the roar, until, at a sharp turn in the stream, one sees the foot of the magnificent Fall. Rushing in wild confusion over a stony ledge 150 feet above, the waters of Neah-kah-nie Creek plunge madly into a boiling pool below. Away from every appearance of civilization, far from the usual haunts of man, in the heart of a great mountain fastness, the beholder is hypnotized by a scene so seldom viewed that it makes the blood tingle with the keen enjoyment of discovery. Wading back again to the bridge, a short but rather sharp ascent leads through the woods and out into the open where, for the first time, the precipitous sides of the moun tain are seen far in the distance. As the trail gradually takes an upward grade, rounding shoulder after shoulder, one is constantly deceived as he sees, considerably ahead, what ap pears to be the summit, yet, upon amv^, discovers another long climb to still another de ceptive point. Soon after beginning the walk up the trail, a glimpse backwards reveals a beautiful vision. Cape Falcon lies gloomily in the dim distance, together with a bit of the Short Sand Beach, and directly behind," the long, winding trail by which an elevation of 500 feet has been reached. Almost below, to the left, is Treasure Cove, seldom visited but easily reached, roaring out its ceaseless message of mystery as the great waves break in its hol low caves. Leaving the trail for an hour and cautiously creeping down the rocky mountain sidi!, one is determined to see this wonderful cove with its blood-stirring traditions. A little 1am v^r y| %; c^ a SA « S': CM^- 3t * A A f 5^ A A :--i 4^1 A V ' Cat 5' 4l I A 4f *: m: A: » 1 ..h~ « ^S->.-' «;• I -SE^, ---'ci; \ A? *y -m A "ft>f Af SeuUi udc 0/ Trcanire Cove. 350 /eel oiove »iiler and Jeeplj mJenttJ wHh mczplorcJ eavei. The nolurei eolormf on rfieee roe^i eidlee eommenl. Il »o» under Ihe mall 0/ IhU reek lhal Ike Spanith ehip »iu wrecked. The unferlunele eeiler, endeueered In icnle Ihe perpendiculur eor/oee 0/ Ihe hufe rock- Te Ihe rifht ef ihe piclure, Pulpii Reek " ««"■ The lop u emeelh mi perfectly termed. So far 'i.-a' Tfci fMroimnm Aii eo df it/iVonecaeh -kaai ht-onie, AAefo uennltairme , cocaosmt tKin^e mitg ma pmlathn inmie^wo,n f ro^m Nehalem Boy oil the waif A Cape Lodfotti, wtA TUlamoo^ Baff and Bapocean in Ae diskmee. i'./- '■^^■*-. ' f - pa « - ■- ■ .a -^" ^ "ia • - "" --PP vVa ''. P! -=- - -" aa' itpaiaii:a P-:' a• "■: " -:"- :"" ^.:.i p /P; 3paa""' ^ai aaa..3p-" p- a -- "P" aPiaaia'P'--- ;:-'aarP_ piriiiallapp tiliiiiifSipp -i^p.aa -is-aap P P' "^^ppaa-app; p. v.,^. -— ■" - —iia^pPa -Pi-P: , ^ii ;p 'a■^. Y- • -•■ -V : •- Lcot'ml nortfi frtm Ae peak, too tAere Cna»pAe , Faanlda ma , smTUalll apnaarat i oHf Aea* l Cmoliii ml^^MliI .REnH»« r Cmreaeyk .h eN coiretho riHy esaeml, . i^sLjb^im TTrr nr~ea I'"tss^ ii^t^A^^gSwtggSiig ^m ^s On. 0/ lA. met romnnlic a«l«no4;l. ronJ. in Or.,on i. itin, ilulfJ out ./ (A. .M. ./ lA. n,«.nl^, r««:Ain» i" '•W"' «I««A"'. 670 /ee<. ai the point abo>t iho»n. nert, at a huge ilide, i^ovn at Roc^ Canyon, a brtdge u bemg ouiU. care since a tumble would precipitate one a thousand feet below. A series of peaks follow one after the other, the topmost being 1790 feet. Looking northward from the sunlit over Cape Falcon, Tillamook Head is plainly visible, as well as TUlamook Light, part of €annon Beach, North Head, Onion Peak, Bald Mountain in Washington, 50 miles away, and a long stretch of the Columbia Kiver glistening like a ribbon in the hazy distance. Descending again to the trail, the new automobile road is reached. Kiis highway is being blasted out of the solid rook of the mountain side. Here the trail is left, owing to the much easier grade of the completed portion of the new road. Stepping back^ a few hundred yards, to the second turn in the road, Rock Canyon is seen. This is a' gigantic slide, 875 feet long, which in ages past dug its savage way into the side of the moimtam, carrying with it huge boulders, great trees and tons of earth to the hungry waters below. The impossibility of building the road around this canyon made it necessary to bridge it. . t »^r g t s S •r*^ »• >*>- ^¥- i 1 fe g:¥ lar S¥ rt g 7^: :;?vr' An mtercjling pcnoramic »i«» of the country lying touih of Noah-kah-nie Mountain. Tki* phologroph »aa lo^n at an eloaiion ̂ 1200 fed Predomineling in the foreground, u the famotu Neah-keh-nie Meadott, the fevoriU camp of the Indtant, prefiuely grown with natural grasi and scattering clumps of trees, as perfectly formed as though trained by experts. From left to right, the This road will prove tremendously fascinating to automobilists and equestrians when it is completed. By means of it, vehicle connection will be established for the first time, be tween Tillamook and Astoria. As the road descends to the 500-foot elevation, a large, level plateau, semi-circular in shape, provides the most ideal and natural location for a Summer hotel, that can be found on the American continent. From this spot, the environment is delightful. Looking down upon Neah-kah-nie sand beach, the eye travels south to Nehalem Bay, down Garibaldi Beach, and on down the coast to the entrance of Tillamook Bay, Bayocean, Cape Hears and Cape Lookout, far into the further distance of the Pacific Ocean. Near the road, making it con venient for trqyellers and far above the ocean, overlooking the vast meadow below, with stern old Neah-kah-nie shielding it from the wind, no more inspiring site could be suggested. Several groves of trees just ahead impress one deeply. Instead of scrubby, wind swept and distorted specimens usually found along the coast of the Pacific, these trees are as perfectlv formed as if trained by the careful hand of an aboriculturist. Preserving their shapes even to the ground, they are really a remarkable feature of the big meadow. At places, the cows have sought shade beneath the branches, wearing them off and develop ing a grove wonderfully sj-mmetrical and absolutely free from underbrush. Nowhere else on the Oregon coast are such beautiful shade trees to be found. East of the center of Neah-kah-nie Meadow, where the road makes a detour, a trail leads through an entrancing alder grove, breaking away from the main road, following iff; ^;: -^,5= rr rv-*-^ •t- -fe ai-- K .%!. ■M •Tkh m •t': 1" iS. "f s is -s®: Si V--- UyWi following welUlfnown landmarks are vuible- Nehalem Rner, town of Nehalan, yoehttrgh. Fishers Point, Nehalan Bay, Nehalem sand spit. Caribaldi Beach, Twin Rodts, entrance to Tillamoolt Bay, Bayocean. Cape Mears and Cape Lookout. Pillars of smol^ indicate right of way of Pacifie Railway 6- Natigalion Company's railroad from Portland to Tillamook City. the brink of a little canyon, at the bottom of ■which a stream dashes merrily seaward, the walk through this embowered path is refreshing after a long exposure to the sun on the mountain trail. Leaving the grove suddenly, one has an unobstructed view over a vast field of grass and ferns, all the way to the ocean. Through this blossoming meadow, where once roamed the tribes of red men, one walks leisurely, fanned by the delicious salt air breeze. Loitering down the gentle incline to the sea, stopping now and then to fill a cup with the cold, sparkling water of a brooklet, some great presence seems to prompt one, uncon sciously, to turn to the rear, where from the center of the field the great mountain is seen, even as before, monopolizing the entire landscape. As the shadows of evening fall, its sum mit begins to disappear in a great mantle of cloud, while the lengthening rays of the sun, cutting across its massive southern breast, throw the great canyons and shoulders into high lights and shadows, inviting a final camera exposure for the daj'. On to the beach, just beyond the greensward! Without an irregularity, a rock, a hole or a ridge for over seven miles, to the mouth of the Nehalem, and from 600 to 1000 feet wide, stretching away in the setting sun, here at the foot of Neah-kah-nie Mountain is the most perfect bathing strand in the State of Oregon. Along the beach line, above the high est tide, placed there by Nature, is a perfect boulevard of fine rock. With verj' little labor this roadway will be made to extend the entire length of the beach. Lying in the midst of the green meadow, just back from the water, are two myster iously graven, flat stones. Nearly everyone in Oregon has heard of the "treasure rocks of ims /(■ SF- % h4 ^Bh, jmt J ■t"- •F. A m ?» 4k t / r. rt Tht pr«ip.tou. m^ntein .WaJ.,J .< .al» nOgi rUpl» rttoa (Aoi/» lIAh.e rncu»th foaurelo mtfwMlU » ir»^ JJi.e UW ^oc o»firnUg o/ JeligAIj iJtoe A«e m»oo1toicru.l«. , „ if ri«. «. A. rtA«'. Neah-kah-nie." Seeing them, an irresistible desire impels one to aid in interpreting the mystic characters that have puzzled people for many years. In the soft earth, just as they were discovered by an early homesteader, the story tradition tells of these curious stones « fi. m ' . --rS:' f.= ^b»#>«»?^ On o etaeon 500 /«1 .i«M lAe «n, roo*/ an4 a= ;8. ^ilAoug/i the grauy plain, of Ntah-kah-nie »e« once JenuJeJ o/ lAeir tree by the Indian,, ftftp to a hundred year, have developed many beautiful grove* on the property. imparts a morbid thrill that enthralls for the moment, sending the fancy scampering back centuries at a bound. A Spanish ship, so the tale runs, under full sail, fleeing the wrath their depredations in the Philippines had engendered, pursued by a vessel outfitted by the monks.of the island, sighted Neah- kah-nie Mountain before any other land on the Pacific Coast. Putting in close, a scouting expedition vc 9 we •i: "V ?h J»* ^v •0̂ . \: WV rr: i xr-T*'e !«ite Jf.•ViW 35 ^r ♦v*i m mr r »* \ ?r =v --<;s: 4;*' A.-V. «A 'Leaving the road through the natural parlf at Neah-heh^nte, delightful grooet of alders line the trail. was sent tralrfor the purpose of locating a favorable spot to bury the gold, silver and precious stones these pirates had filched from the convents of the far east. Some day, no doubt, their fl ight being successful, they intend^ to return to take possession of the spoils of their cruise. Landing under the lee of the mountain in their small boats, the advance guard found the great, level meadow lying along the Ashore. Returning. the3' loaded a huge chest of treasure, setting it ashore somewhere in the vicinity of the present resting place of the two rocks. They then prepared to hide it in true pirate fashion. . ■• • . While no man living today has ever seen the heavy, metal-bound chest, it is reported that it was about four fegt long, three wide and the same in depth. It is supposed to have been encompassed Emerging from Iht trail omong tha aUert, Naah-kah-ttia Meadof, afreaj oul. ««p.ng genii, iul ma/enicnllj, lo lie l.oier. StanJmg on the tooth tide of Neah-keh-nte Meadomt, one toke* in at a glance, all of the mountain, the grauj, green knolU and fromn- ing, rock'hound eoaet to the nort/i. with heavy iron bands, fastened to the walls of the chest by brass nails and locked by a huge con- trivance of bronze. The chest was deposited at the bottom of a hole dug in the meadow and the earth was then ftKhtr-oAwn bhnanclkr ttiilUl within ssiixx ffeeeett of the ttoopo.. As evening approached and the mountain shadows brought the great mountain bulk into vivid relief against the evening sky, a great fire was built, food prepared anudu thuec imlelCnU |p.»r1 oceeded tVoV the really tragical fp—a-rt- o^ f t- he gv.h astlvy affair. In their midst was a huge, swarthy negro. Knowing that a black man was especially feared by the Pacihc Coast Indians, this son of the southern islands, without coffin or ceremony, tied hand and - g ! : 7 - i ^ ' - : K : • V , j . ; K ? ; g s i a i g w - ■ c : ^ ' - : r . s ? ? 1 ? a S ? S i : N e a h - k a h - n i c M o u n t a i n h a * a J e l i g h t f u l s a n j b e a c h . I V i l h o u t a n i r r e g u f a n l y . s t r e t c h i n g s m o o t h l \ f o u t i n t o t h e l a p p i n g i i J e a d i s t a n c e o f o v e r C f T D f e e l , p r o t e c t e d f r o m t h e n o r t h b y t h e h u g e b u l l f o f t h e m o u n f o m , N e o h - k a h - n i e b e a c h i s c o m p l e t e . . 1 - j . ' ■ r S i - Z - - ' H Z y l : V ' > • } j / r ^ : ; ; r \ > * T 1 A T y v f e < \ > f f - 4 ; a ; t ? i : v ' • * v . i > l > V . s f - y i s < ■ Y ^ : . A - - 5 • V > ; r , . - r r ^ : 1 y r < ' ^ipK ffllilllffl (foUi'nj norlji. after letning the tanj beach, the shore is sIreKn Kiih bouUers and rocks, soioe esashed ap bp the tide and others falling from ihe mountain heights ebeve. / \ '' foot, was lowered into the tomb, while upon his helpless body the earth was heaped, smothering his fearful cries. With returning daylight, the presence of the hole was obliterated as carefully as pos sible and two large, flat stones were brought from the beach, upon which were engraved the mysteri ous marks of direction which are plainly visible to this day. Years later, just as the pirate crew had anticipated, a homesteader, building a cabin upon the high bluffs overlooking the sea, plowed one day in the rich meadow and unearthed the two rocks. From that day the cultivation of this plot of ground was forgotten in his feverish excitement to find what he believed to be a buried treasure. Finding the hones of a large man he relinquished the search, deceived into the conclusion that it was a grave. All trace of this man is gone, as is that of another party that investigated in the same vicm- itv several years later. These men, it is told, found a chest. The wood remained in fair state of preservation, although badlv worm-eaten. The nails were easily pulled from their sockets and the hands were broken with the fingers. With great glee the chest was wrenched open. Of treasure, it is said, there was not the slightest evidence. Instead, were found mustv parchments, so decomposed as to be undecipherable. It is not known what became of these papers, although it has been surmised that they were sent to the Spanish government, as they appeared to have been written in that language. Following this rather legendary story, history actually affords some records of searching parties in later years. Nothing is known of any effort on the part of the Indians to unearth any treasure, even though they had knowledge that any had been buried there. After the homesteader, a resident of Astoria, several years ago, took up the search. For more than six years he prospected every nook and corner that seemed to be indicated by m ■Vt mu. M im ¥: 8?^ Jth % ■j-^y. •y> \* r. CtC /■^ *T jr ->4^4 /or fiorA o« f/ u possible to travel, one encounlerj the bottom of monster slides thtU have dag their great paths out of the heart of the mountain. (NOTE.—In the center foreground is the foot of Roclf Canpon, above which the bridge is being built.) the marks on the rooks. He found nothing more than Indian relics of more or less value. Near a gushing spring, where he spent his last few months, an old spade, pickaxe and crude wheelbarrow still bear mute evidence of the tireless effort of the man in his vain quest. ■ ■ ■ ^ • Others, in recent years, have sought and will probably continue to search for this elusive treasure. It is a well-known fact that this part of the coast was infested with pirates in the olden days and evidences of their visits have frequently been found. It is not im probable that treasure of some sort is buried at the foot of old Neah-kah-nie. "When least expected, no doubt, and in some surprisingly conspicuous location, one day it will be found. Thus, the interests of tradition are projected from the dim past into the bright future. Let the search continue and prosper some one! ~ ~ ' Thrusting aside the thralldom into which reflection has cast one. leaving the treasure rocks for the time, it is a delightful stroll again to the beach and between two mammoth boulders, seeming to guard approach to the rock paved coast to the north, toward the wave beaten base of the gigantic cliffs that are typical of the mountainous coast line. All vestige of sand is past and every step becomes more difficult. The great stones thrown aside by the tides, combine with thousands of spherical rocks that have plunged down the mountain side in ages gone by, make the jaunt interesting at low tide and thrilling when it is high. Jumping from stone to stone, one observes that the shore rapidly becomes narrower as progress is made, and that the sides of the mountain becomes steeper and higher. v > ^ ;.•; r' v" . , v"; vi'^ >v.| .m, m:. - :-^ .: V. iv /-T .r^*.?: 1 /,. ■.:?;;. i.'.!. :, £.,,r\'' - * ̂ "'■' i *' ' »f' • :h vfei^a:i«iSi:l i/ » .? •■4ii !;;■ j»-. 4m ^■•ST^'- '- 'wA' Passing the foot of slide after slide, tons npon tons of debris are surmounted, fallen down from time to time. Presently the footway becomes so narrow and the cliffs so abrupt that headway is difficult. Ahead the great, white crested breakers thunder a grave warn ing. This is as far north, at the base of Neah-kah-nie Mountain, as any one has dared to go. It is quite probable that, in very calm weather, one might proceed even to Treasure Cove in a small, safe boat. Such a trij) would, under favorable circumstances, be worthy of re membering, for aside from the victims of the Spanish wreck, it is reasonably certain no human being has ever entered this great trap. Days may be spent in the vicinitv of Neah-kah-nie Mountain, each one leading to an entirely d'iflferent location, with a great variety of scenic effects, outing opportunities and healthful pleasures that would be difficult to find in any other single neighborhood. The beeswax ridges on the beach, the tell-tale driftwood, many pieces fairly bursting to tell the storj- of wrecks at sea, the long, shady trails through the alders, the bpoks and the tempt ing ravines through which thev meander, then dense forests, with their prospects of^ game of a great variety, the marvelous clam shell beds, the caves in the mountain, the coal mine on its southeast side, the crab fishing and clam digging at the mouth of the Nehalem, the surf bathing, with warmer water and less wind than is found along the Oregon coast, as a rule, and the' mountain climbing jaunts that are so inviting every day. There is no end of pleas ure that might be suggested in this place. The road through Neah-kah-nie Park, for that is virtually what the country along this highway should be called, so suggestive is it of healthful playgrounds, passes through arches of green trees. Toward the west, at intervals, wonderful vistas are seen, framed on either side by the wonderfully interlaced branches, showing the great ocean sparkling m the sun. Turning sharply about, looking in the opposite direction, is an entirely different view. The forests of Neah-kah-nie Park are as Nature left them. Ancient trees stand guard over a great jungle. Vines cling to massive dead trunks. Trees that have fall^ in the warfare of centuries lie upon the ground, while from their mouldv trunks others have sprouted, some growing to great heights. Ferns of a hundred varieties wave their lacy edges in the breeze. Ever shaded, save in patches, the recesses of these great woods are invitingly cool, and a plunge into their depths gives one a real taste of life in the bosom ot realms where great trees reign supreme. Down the road, which leads from Neah-kah-nie Mountain into the town of Nehalem, are more opportunities for artistic photographs than in any other place in the State. Wind ing and turning a score of times in a mile, ever through a grove of waving alders, this road will live in memory, perhaps, longer than any other feature. With its scores of varied and enticing innovations one is inevitably driven to the conclusion that he would rather spend a Summer at Neah-kah-nie Mountain than any other place he has ever known. Before the present trip is a memory he is planning for the next. On the jaunt around the mountain, looking southward, pillars of smoke and hun dreds of tents are seen, bearing witness to the progress that is being made in the construc tion of the Pacific Railway & Navigation Company's railroad from Portland to Tillamook. Trains are already running from Tillamook City to Garibaldi. Grades are being built and rails laid along the nine miles of Garibaldi Beach. Excavations and tunnels are being hur ried from the mouth of the Nehalem toward its junction with the Salmonberry. In the interior, huge construction camps have been established and rails will soon be laid both ways. From the Portland end, work is progressing rapidly. The line from this city to Buxton has been in operation for some time. Only a few miles of connecting work remain to accomplish the result that the Tillamook country and Nehalem Bay district have been longing for these many years. From the railroad station on the south side of the Nehalem River, the people of Ne halem are about to build a bridge to give their town transportation facilities. The road to this bridge will be a continuation of the delightful road that passes around Neah-kah-nie Mountain and through the alder groves into Nehalem. Upon its completion, Neah-kah-nie will be only two and a half miles from railroad service. 'This short distance is far better than the proximity to the dirt and turmoil that a depot and switchyard suggest. Fifteen minutes by automobile, twenty-five minutes by omnibus, or forty minutes by foot will take one to the center of the big Neah-kah-nie Meadow. A few minutes more will reach the hotel site, 500 feet up the mountain side by means of an even grade, almost imperceptible. So far as transportation is concerned, nothing more favorable could be desired than the conditions that will prevail in the vicinity of Neah-kah-nie Mountain upon completion of the new railroad. With transportation solved, Neah-kah-nie Mountain will take its proper place as the peerless resort of the Oregon coast. Everything considered, it beats the world for the full enjoyment of every healthy, outdoor amusement. Neah-kah-nie Mountain will have a hotel the coming Summer. This news will be hailed with delight by the hundreds of jseople who were entertained at the ranch house in the season just gone by. The unsolicited newspaper publicit.v of the last Winter, show ing Neah-kah-nie in its true light, is certain to make this place more popular than ever before. Proper accommodations have been planned and the opening of the season of 1910 will find Neah-kah-nie Mountain equipped with a hotel, provided with all the conveniences one expects in a summer hostelry. Plenty of ranch food \^1 load the tables, garden truck raised on the place, eggs, butter and milk of the very best, and pure water from the moun tain streams. Neah-kah-nie needs only this to make it more popular than ever before. People will take to its mggedness and love it as did the Indians who first selected it. This delightful place needs only to be seen once to be properly advertised. Nothing in the world can prevent Neah-kah-nie Mountain from becoming the finest beach resort in the State of Oregon. Most of the recent beach resorts have been sold "unsight and unseen." Not so, Neah-kah-nie! It is preferred that buyers see it first and purchase later. The very marvel of this portfolio lies in the fact that every photograph shown herein is either a part of the property or a view taken from some portion of it. Neah-kah-nie is known all over the State; it all belongs to one owner; it is all a part of the celebrated Neah-kah-nie Ranch. To all the marvelous, natural advantages possessed by Neah-kah-nie Mountain, add such conveniences as running water, piped in front of every lot; electric lights, graded and macadamized streets, a fine ocean shore boulevard, a magnificent hotel, de signed for the accommodation of antomobilists, railroad travellers and pedestrians, a build ing restriction tbat will compel the respect of builders, building lines that will preserve the contour of the property and obstruct nobody's view of the ocetin, contour roads, following easy grades and opportune elevations, the reservation of every spring on the property for water reservoirs and parks, and dedicating the ravines for a continuation of the parking sys tem; add all these features to Neah-kah-nie Mountain, and let the man who can name a place upon the Pacific Coast that will, in any measure, compete with Neah-kah-nie as the premier resort of the Northwest. All of these improvements and innovations are promised. No time' is set for their accomplishment other than the statement that each and every one of the improvements above named will be installed. The tracts first sold will be first improved, and the more im portant improvements will be first installed, such as water, light and streets. The finest hotel upon the Pacific Coast will be ready for guests just as soon as it is needed. Meantime, however, ample accommodations will be arranged for those who visit this wonderful moun tain, either by foot, horseback or steamer into Nehalem this Summer. BIBLIOGRAPHY Abdill, George. "Pacific Railway and Navigation Company." Scenes Along the Pacific Railway and Navigation Line. N.p.: Pacific Northwest Electric Railway Association, n.d. Brochure, souvenir edition. Appleton, Maria Brymner, ed. Who's Who in Northwest Art. Seattle, Wash.: Frank McCaffrey, 1941. Arcade: Northwest Journal for Architecture and Design. 9, no. 4, (October/November 1989), entire issue. Alt, David D., and Donald Hyndman. Roadside Geoloov of Oregon. Missoula, Mont.: Mountain Press, 1988. Baker, Dean. "Designs for Life." Oregonian. 10 January 1991, n.p. "The Blot." Portland Sketch Club Newsletter, 1897-98. Portland, Ore.: Portland Art Museum Library. Bosker, Gideon, and Lena Lencek. Frozen Music: A History of Portland Architecture. Portland: Western Imprints, Press of the Oregon Historical Society, 1985. Clark, Rosalind. Architecture Oregon Style. Portland, Ore.: Professional Book Center, 1983. "Coast Highway." Portland Oregonian. 23 June 1974. Port land Art Museum file, Oregon Historical Society, Port land, Oregon. Collins, Dean. "Portland's Successful Women." Portland Oregonian. 13 December 1914, 1. Portland Art Museum file, Oregon Historical Society, Portland, Oregon. Cotton, Samuel J. Stories of Nehalem. Chicago: M. A. Donahue, 1915. County Clerk's Office. Deed Books. Tillamook County Court house, Tillamook, Oregon. Crocker, Anna Belle. It Goes Deeper Than We Think. Pri vately published, 1946. Private collection. Dicken, Samuel. The Western Shore: Oregon Country Essays. Edited by Thomas Vaughan. Portland: Oregon Historical Society, Durham & Downey, 1976. Doyle, A. E. Specifications; Neah-Kah-Nie Cottages. 1912- 1916. Syracuse University Library Archives, Syracuse, New York. Farr, Libby Dawson. "The Architecture of Pietro Belluschi." Master's thesis. Reed College, Portland, Oregon, 1977. Frost, John H. "Journal." Edited by Nellie H. Pipes. Oregon Historical Ouarterlv 35 (September 1934): 242. Gibbs, Jim. Oregon's Saltv Coast. Seattle, Wash.: Superior Pub., 1978. Head, Lewis M. "Neah-Kah-Nie Mountain." Portland, Ore.: S. G. Reed, 1910. Brochure, author's private collection. Hitchcock, Henry-Russell. Architecture: Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries. Baltimore, Md.: Penguin Books, 1958. "Image Gallery." Portland, Oregon. Flyer, author's private collection. Keeler, Charles. The Simple Home. San Francisco, Calif.: P. Elder, 1904. Lawrence, Ellis F. Correspondence. Ellis F. Lawrence file. University of Oregon Archives, Eugene, Oregon. Lawrence, Ellis F. Letter to Alfred "Larry" Schroff, 27 August 1919. Ellis F. Lawrence file, Oregon Historical Society, Portland, Oregon. Lawrence, Ellis F. Letter to Stanford White. Private collection. "Local News." Nehalem (Oregon^ Enterprise. 1911-1915, p. 1. Archives, Knight Library, University of Oregon, Eugene. Lucia, Ellis. "Historic Railroad Line Lost in Burn." The Times. 21 September 1983, p. 3. Railroads file, Oregon Historical Society, Portland, Oregon. Lucia, Ellis. "Southern Pacific Branch Line Crosses Famous Tillamook Burn." Oregon Journal (28 September 1958): n.p. Martin, Harry, and Dick Busher. Contemporary Homes of the Pacific Northwest. Seattle, Wash.: Madrone Pub., 1980. McAlester, Virginia, and Lee McAlester. A Field Guide to American Houses. New York; Alfred A. Knopf, 1984. McArthur, Lewis L. Oregon Geographic Names. Portland, Ore.; Western Imprints, 1982. McCoy, Esther. Five California Architects. New York; Reinhold, 1960. McMath, George. "Emerging Regional Style." In Space. Style and Structure, edited by Thomas Vaughan and Virginia Guest Ferriday. Portland; Oregon Historical Society, 1974. McMath, George. Interview with author. Portland, Oregon, 4 November 1990. Mershon, Helen L. "Cottage by the Sea." Portland Ore- gonian. 16 October 1987, Dl. "Neah-Kah-Nie Mountain and the Nehalem Country." N.p.; Nehalem Commercial Club and Southern Pacific Lines in Oregon, n.d. Brochure, author's private collection. "Necarney City, Seabright and Nehalem Bay Park; New Town- sites." Portland, Ore.; Nehalem Bay Land Co., 1908. Brochure, author's private collection. Nehalem Bay United Methodist Church. 100 Years of the Nehalem Countrv. Nehalem Bay; Pacific Yearbook Co., 1970. Newton, Francis. Interview with author. Portland, Oregon, March 1989. "The Oregon Artist," 4, no. 1 (Fall 1955), 3. Portland, Ore.; Portland Art Museum. Newsletter. Owens, Laura. "Neah—kah—nie Mountain; Past, Present, and Future." (Nehalem. Oregon^ Fishrapper. 21 August 1980, 21. Portland Citv DirectO] Portland, Ore.; Author, 1917. Portland Oregonian. 28 May 1895, C4; 22 November, 1981, Cl. Oregon Historical Society, Portland, Oregon. Potter, Elisabeth Walton. "The Motor Age." In Space. Stvle and Structure, edited by Thomas Vaughan and Virginia Guest Ferriday. Portland: Oregon Historical Society, 1974. Pouteau, Corinne. Interview with author. Portland, Oregon, 9 December 1988. Povey, Carol. Interview with author. Neahkahnie, Oregon, March 1988. Prentiss, Jean Reed. Interviews with author. Neahkahnie, Oregon, 1988-1990. Prentiss, Jean Reed. Tillamook: Lest We Forget. Tilla- mook. Ore: Tillamook Pioneer Association, 1979. Reed College. [Concert programs for the Reed College concert series.] Portland, Oregon, 1931-32. Private collection. Ross, Marion Dean. "A Century of Architecture in Oregon, 1959-1959." Portland: Women's Architectural League of the Oregon Chapter of the American Institute of Architects, June 1959. Souvenier brochure of Oregon's centennial year. Ross, Terry. "The Building Spirit." (Portland. Oregon^ Willamette Week. 24 August 1988, n.p. Roth, Leland M. A Concise History of American Architecture. New York: Harper & Row, 1979. Roth, Leland M. Letter to author, 22 May 1989. Roth, Leland M. Telephone conversation with author, 21 May 1989. ^ Sackett, Patricia. "The Architecture of Emil Schacht." Master's thesis. University of Oregon, Eugene, 1990. Scott, Leslie M., Chairman State Highway Commission. [Transcript of speech.] Portland Oreoonian. 22 May 1932, n.p. Oregon Historical Society, Portland, Oregon. Scully, Vincent J., Jr. The Shinde Stvle. New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press, 1955. Shellenbarager, Michael, ed. Harmony in Diversity; The Architecture and Teaching of Ellis F. Lawrence. Eugene; University of Oregon, 1989. Stubblebine, Jo, ed. The Northwest Architecture of Pietro Belluschi. New York: F. W. Dodge, 1953. Tillamook County File. [Map: Northwest Section of Tillamook County, Oregon.] Oregon Historical Society, Portland, Oregon. "Travel on the P. R. & N." Portland Oreoonian. 29 October 1961. Portland Art Museum file, Oregon Historical Soci ety, Portland, Oregon. U.S. Government Survey. "Map Showing Location of Neah-kah- nie Mountain." Washington, B.C.: Government Printing Office, 1910. Vaughan, Thomas, and Virginia Guest Ferriday, ed. Space. Style and Structure. Portland: Oregon Historical Society, 1974. Wirts, Thelma L. "Historic Home is Architectural Landmark." (Tillamook, Oregon) Headlight Herald. 8 October 1986, 3. Whiffen, Marcus, and Frederick Keeper. American Architec ture, 1860-1976. Cambridge, Mass.: The MIT Press, 1987.