UNIVERSITY OF OREGON
Portland, OR
HURRIYYA COLLECTION
Equity and Inclusion: Cycling in Saudi Arabia &
Muslim Female Traditional Dress; with a Focus on Professional & Pedestrian Cyclist
Thesis Capstone  2020/21
M.S. Candidate:
Lindsay Kotovsky
Committee/Reviewers:
Susan Sokolowski
Table Of Contents
1.0……….………………………….....  Abstract
2.0……….…....…... History Women in Cycling
2.1…….......  Muslim Women & Cultural Dress
2.2……….………....  Muslim  Women in Sport
2.3……………………………. Barriers to Entry
3.0………….……..….  Environment of Cycling
3.1………….……...  Professional Environment
3.2………....…..…....  Pedestrian Environment
4.0…………….….………....  Sport Rules (UCI)
4.1………........……………..  Pedestrian Rules
5.0………………………..…. Athlete/User Data
5.1…………….…..…....  Market Size/Potential
6.0………………...……….  Athlete Experience
7.0……...…..  Competitor Product Landscape
7.1………….….………...  Anatomy of Product
8.0…. Biomechanics & Physiology  of Cycling
9.0…………..……...  State of the Art Materials
9.1……………....……..Materials and Sourcing
10.0……....….. State of the Art Manufacturing
11.0…………....…………... Patent Landscape
12.0………………...…………………. Graphics
12.1………………...….………………….. Color
12.2…………....……... Current Product Space
13.0…………....…...…………. SWOT Analysis
13.1……...…….SWOT Baseline/Ideation Plan
13.2 ……………. Test Plan Baseline Products
13.3………………………....… HURRIYYA LAB
13.4……………………... Results and Findings
13.5………………… Prototyping and Ideation
14.0.... Project Alignment to Design Strengths
14.1……...……. Strengths Support innovation
14.2…….......………... Project Support Career
1.0 Abstract
In many Muslim cultures women remain suppressed from basic human rights, how do we
design for cultural needs to create a path of entry into sport? The understanding how cycling
has held barriers to entry for women, in Muslim culture women remain suppressed of basic
human rights, how do we design for cultural needs to create a path of entry into sport? Many
issues that create this barrier are rooted in traditional garment of the Muslim faith and culture
that are either legally restriction or systemic norms. The scope that will be further examined will
look at both pedestrian and professional women cyclist needs with the lens of keeping with
traditional and legal boundaries in Saudi Arabia. The target market will be aimed for women
18-35 years of age given the population and user growth in cycling. This will be done by
unpacking Competitive Goals and Cultural Goals as a vehicle for women’s  freedom and
liberation via cycling.
2.0 History of Women in Cycling
Historically women have gained freedom and access to independence through the use of
bikes, today we still witness many women lacking access to bikes due to cultural and religious
beliefs (Neejer, 2011). During the decades-long suffrage movement, late 1800’s -1920’s, in the
United States and United Kingdom the bike stood as a symbol for political and cultural shifts of
women's rights (Neejer, 2011). A shift in apparel took place in 1894 to accommodate the need
for women to ride with more efficiency, this took the form of the Betty Bloomer, allowing
women to ride upright bikes comfortably in their long shirts (Ro, 2018). “Bloomers, essentially
voluminous trousers tied at the ankle and often worn under short skirts, had been popularized
back in the 1850s by the women’s rights activist Amelia Bloomer” (Ro, 2018). This was a
powerful innovation and juxtaposition to clothing worn by women at the time, which was
designed to enhance their shape; tight corsets and heavy skirts which would trail on the
ground.
A central way female cyclists were able to perform within the confines of Victorian
respectability, and thus blend into the activity of the public streets, was through their clothing
choices. Upon the invention of the women's safety bicycle, thousands of women throughout
the country were both drawn to cycling but also had virtually no existing conceptualization of
what to wear (Neejer, 2006).  Women began to design and create their own outfits, share these
ideas with friends and weigh the pros and cons of various options (Somers, 1967).
This included short skirts of various lengths of bottom garment, typically no shorter than one
foot above the ground; shorter shoes instead of high boots; less fabric overall (typically
weighed in pounds); elastic inlets to keep the dress from catching in the wheel; use of a belt for
accessories; and for more
The B ke 
radical women, some sort of
knickerbockers or divided skirt
1818 1860 1870 1885 
underneath a shortened dress GERMANY FRANCE FRANCE ENGLAND 
Dandy horse Velocipede Penny farthing 
" Running machine " " Fintlruebicycle" "Two coins "' Safety Bicycle 
(Hargreaves, 1994).
Inventor : Inve ntor : Inven tor : Inventor: 
Karl van Drais Ern est Michaux & Pierre Eug lineMeye r 
Lollemenl John Kemp 
Starley 
After a brief examination of the
Women & Cycling 
Suffrage Movement in Western 1890's of the Victorian era 
Symbol for freedom 
culture, there is a direct 189A 
Betty Bloomers became popular. 
Women were no longer limited to tricycles and could ride comfortably in their long skirts 
correlation between cycling and
"/ think bicycling hos done more to emancipate women than onything else in the world. I 
sfond by and rejoice every time f see a woman ride by on a wheel.• 
shifts in women's dress during - Susan 8. Anthony, 1896 
the turn of the century. Parallels
can be made to current suffrage that women are still suppressed under due to dress, this can
be seen in the Muslim women’s comunity and the tradtional wear of the Hijab. How can dress
be a vehicle for liberation and freedoms that open doors to more growth and opportunity?
2.1 Muslim Women & Cultural Dress
Muslim women cultural dress is deeply
rooted in the history acording to the Quran,
were the hijab acts a protective barrier for
women (Lamrabet, 2019). Although the use
of the word Hijab is not used in the Quran to
"Hijab" "Niqab" "Burka" 
identify a women’s clothing, today’s cultural use of the word is synonymous with a headscarf or
covering (Lamrabet, 2019). Other dress types that will be used as a baseline for this project will
be the Abaya ( Chador or
Jilbab, these terms are
synonymous and
interchangeable in cultural use
and hold more regional Wo rld of Hi jab 
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outer garments that are worn
to cover the body head to toe (Lamrabet, 2019).
Clothing should not be tight or reveal the form of the body underneath. The design, texture, or
scent of clothing should not attract undue attention. Modesty is appropriate at any age, but
particularly important after a girl or boy has reached puberty (Islamic, 2020).
This practice is falling out of favor, as many young women prefer to wear the chador or the
style of niqab that is common in Saudi Arabia. These forms of dress are generally made out of
wool or cotton cloth and are not only modest but offer protection from the piercing sun and
blowing sand (Islamic, 2020).
2.2 Muslim Women in Sport
Depending on the
country, women in
Muslim parts of
the world have
varying
experiences; they
face different
obstacles in trying
to participate in sports.  Even so, these female athletes have a few things in common.  They all
must try to navigate the complexity of their identities. Individually, girls and women make
decisions for themselves based on their values, obligations, expectations, affinity to sport and
whatever else it is that makes them who they are (Wales, 2013).  Below, further exploration in
some of the ways girls and women in Muslim countries might experience sport.  Keeping in
mind that there is no single female Muslim experience and the varilable of relations to the
Hijab/Abaya has a large range.
Muslim women’s sportswear, has obstuvtive limitation and restrictions when it comes to
preforming the sport due to the covering of head to toe.  This cloth is meant to protect Muslim
women from men’s harassment as well as Muslim women’s specific identity (Quthb, 2004).
Until now, Indonesia athletes wearing jilbab were having difficulties being able to participate in
competition, moreover in international events because of the regulation (Damayanti, 2017).
“‘Why is this controversial?’ they’d say things like, ‘It goes against our traditions.’ Or, ‘Women
just don’t do that.’ You’d hear these blanket statements. Juie Browns, personal opinion is
simply that bikes give freedom and independence to someone. Bikes are all over that country.
Boys ride them everywhere because it is an affordable vehicle that can get you around faster.
But for women, you’re just not seeing it” (Brown, 2020).
2.3 Barriers to Entry
Today many developed and developing countries women still lack access to education,
healthcare and economic opportunities. Access to cycling comes with a duality to self
sustaining transportation; greatly increasing independence and opportunities to higher
education, along with more sustainable long term health benefits (Sutton, 2016) . Deterrents for
people of Muslim Women to cycle look like; a lack of visibility of peoples they relate to one
bike,  inclusion of women led cycling groups and lack of knowledge in the field of biking (i.e
safety on the road and general maintenance of the bike).
Due to a lack of transportation in many countries this causes a barrier to education, being that
many have to travel great distances, which is a concern for the safety of students, being more
efficient with how long they have to commute, and the social stigmas around women of
bicycles. The social factor of women on bikes and visibility has had many negative effects on
women. Exhibiting the state of Iran in 2016, many women were arrested failing to meet the
dress code while riding bicycles. Other countries which have strict dress code laws in place for
women are; Saudi Arabia, Egypt, and Afghanistan, which discourage women from riding bikes
(Alexander, 2018).
Furthermore, these women are not being designed for to compete
3.0 Environment of Cycling
The breakdown of the environment for this section will be done in 2 sections; the professional
and pedestrian. Given the scope of the project it is important to understand the key differences
in each environment and how that could hinder or help the performance of an athlete/user. The
professional will spend more time in a controlled environment and will more than likely be riding
with a team (group), which can provide protection. The pedestrian on the other hand will have
more variables, given they can be riding alone at times and in denser urban environments.
Other considerations, weather, this can be a major deciding factor in how you dress
(Professional or Pedestrian) when getting out on your bike. The scope will look at the climate of
Saudi Arabia as a whole and then dial in on Jeddah, due to the location of women’s cycling
races and cycling groups. Under the umbrella of Saudi Arabia as a whole the climate is
generally warm annually, given it is the desert, highs can reach 100+ degrees Fahrenheit and
drop as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit (Weather, n.d). Dialing in on Jeddah, in the western
seaboard of Suadi Arabia on the Red Sea, the average annual maximum temperature is 95
degrees Fahrenheit and average annual low of 74.3 degrees Fahrenheit. The warmest month of
the year is July and the months of January and February tend to be the average 85 degrees
Fahrenheit (Average, n.d.).
3.1 Professional Environment
As a professional cyclist is a full time job, you train daily riding 6 days a week anywhere from
4-6 hours a day including time spent in a gym weight training. Weight training/conditioning is
no more than 1 hour and is designed to develop strength in the core and leg muscles. Special
attention is required to the fuel they are putting into their bodies, getting a balanced nutrient
rich diet is vital to recovery and lean muscle growth. Sustenance during training is also required
due to the mainy hours of the day and the gross amount of calories a professional cyclist is
burning on rides (Seehafer, 2015).
Environmental conditions to consider during the race series held in Jeddah (western seaboard
of the Red Sea) is held October- February an Amatuer Cycling Tournament under the SFA
(Suadi Arabia Sports For All). Conditions to consider the race in Jeddah; air quality, wind
speeds, humidity, and surface temperatures.
Considerations to Air Quality, there has been a harmful/health advisory due to an increase in
particulate matter in the air in the past decade in Jeddah, this is due to dust storms spreading
harmful sulfur dioxide that has been emitted by coal burning power plants (Underground,
2020). This is due to the large oil industry, 2nd largest in the world, oil reserves increased from
35 billion metric tons in 1990 to more than 40 billion metric tons in 2019 (Puri-Mirza, 2020).
The quality of air is understood to be a by-product of wind storms blowing harmful particulate
matter across the desert swath of Saudi Arabia (Puri-Mirza, 2020). It is important to note annual
wind conditions tend to be rather stable throughout the annual year in Jeddah, wavering right
around 10 mph (miles per hour) and the summer months can experience winds up to 16 mph
and the winter months hover right around the average annual speed (Spark, 2020).
Finally environmental considerations that will affect the cyclist will be humidity and surface
temperatures. Jeddah experiences extreme seasonal variation in the perceived humidity, April-
December are the most humid months where the average is 38%, the month of  September
tends to be the highest at 91% and January/February are the lowest at 21% humidity (Sparks,
2020).  The muggier (higher % humidity) conditions can not only be dangerous to ride in but
will also slow down the riders performance (Irons, 2020). The riders ability to cool down their
system in relatively high humidity conditions becomes more difficult due to the moisture in the
air combating the sweat process (Irons, 2020).
3.2 Pedestrian Environment
Environment for pedestrian cyclists will fall under
the lens of the urban setting, this will look vastly
different depending on what part of the globe you
are in. For the sake of clarity I will cover two urban
settings; heavily dominated cycling culture
(Portland, OR, will be the baseline) & Jeddah,
Saudi Arabia (little infrastructure).
Portland, Oregon is ranked one of the highest for bike friendly cities in the United States, this
does not limit the number of injuries or deaths that come with the risk of riding in an urban
setting, “as of 2017, 6.3% of Portland commuters go by bike” (PBOT, 2019). The infrastructure
for bike lanes in Portland is ever growing to make it safer to ride while protecting you from other
street traffic. There are cycling only traffic lights that give the cyclist the advantage when
commuting via bike. As well, there is a large community of women cyclists giving exposure to
women more women on bikes as a choice and as an environmental choice to ride over other
means.
In Jeddah there is little to no cycling infrastructure, the rider is at a higher risk of riding on the
road with traffic. In said communities the language between the driver and cyclist may not be
clear or understood, creating an anxiety driven environment for the cyclist causing distractions
for the rider (Aljoufie, n.d.).
The environmental weather conditions the pedestrian cyclist will be subject to are the same as
the professional, but less controlled given the use of a bicycle year around versus a isolated
event during a specific time of year. The pedestrian rider may be riding during the hotter
summer months when the temperatures are hotter, the humidity is higher and the air quality
can be extremely harmful due to a slight increase in wind conditions (Sparks, 2020).
4.0 Sport Rules (UCI)
Other attributes a professional cyclist needs to take into consideration are the ever changing
UCI (international cycling governing body) rules and regulations, with the accelerated
technologies that are coming out of the market to make riding more efficient, UCI is having to
annually modify the gear and clothing regulation. This brings up the amount and expense that
travel to races will consume you, typically a professional cyclist is on a team or aiming to get on
a team, this is highly competitive and can be morally conflicting. On the Olympic circuit many
countries do not have a womens cyclist
team. Under the UCI, Code of Ethic, it
is stated: “The persons bound by the
Code shall not undertake any action,
use any denigrating words, or any other
means, that offend the human dignity
of a person or group of persons, on any
grounds including but not limited to
skin colour, race, religion, ethnic or
social origin, political opinion, sexual
orientation, disability or any other
reason contrary to human dignity” (Union, 2020). This is best practice and allows for women
within the Muslim religous belief system to be covered during a UCI sanctioned event.
Women now compete in the five Olympic disciplines – Road, Track, Mountain Bike, BMX
Racing and BMX Freestyle and  other disciplines – Para-cycling, Cyclo-cross, Trials and Indoor
Cycling, under UCI, union cycliste international governing body (Regulations, 2019)
UCI regulations on road cycling clothing, these garments are made of drag-resistant materials
such as Lycra or Nylon to help reduce the racers wind resistance during the race (Regulations,
2019). According to UCI rules, all uniforms must have sleeves and the shorts must not extend
below the knee.  This poses a point of contention for women of the muslim faith, who wear
hijabs (headscarves)  and jilbabs (full boy covering). An example of how some teams have
adapted or worked around these rules and regulations is to wear what they have on hand and
the furthest thing from aerodynamic (Hurford, 2020). The Afghanistan women's national team
rides with their chamois under track-suit pants, and their cycling jersey over a long-sleeved
shirt, they also wear a head scarf tied at the base of their neck and wear a helmet over that
(Hurford, 2020).
4.1 Pedestrian Rules
In accordance with the Saudi Arabia law of King Salman, cycling was legalized for women in
2013, this had limits and constraints as to where and when women could ride (Vice, 2018).
According to the 2013 fatwa, the Religious Police say, they're happy for women to ride bikes
and motorcycles wherever they want, "provided they are modestly dressed" (covered head to
toe, not revealing or drawing unwanted attention to themselves) and don't use riding as an
excuse to remove their abayas (Vice, 2018). The government also recommends that women
cycle in the company of a male (husband, father or brother) and avoid areas where young men
may be gathering to avoid conflict (Vice, 2018). As well, when the law was first passed in 2013,
women were only allowed to bike in parks with a male escort, today the law has loosened
giving more freedom for women cyclists to bike without borders in Saudi Arabia (Vice, 2018).
5.0 Athlete/User Data
For the purpose of this study and exploration of the Muslim Womens cycling world, the focus
will be on gender identifying women between the ages of 18-35 based in Saudia Arabi. The
current market is limited for this Athlete, but is growing with the birth of a women’s cycling
group, Jeddah Woman Cyclist, which has 7,887 followers on Instagram (Yeager, 2020). As well
Saudia Arabia hosted the first female cycling race, in Jeddah where 47 women lined up to start
the 10k race presented by Be Active, an organization to bring women cyclists together
(Harrison, 2018). This race has grown drastically, the most recent racing series drew in 1,000
plus women entries to the start line during the three race series that spanned October 2019-
January 2020 (Bashraheel, 2020).
Cycling as a sport is growing in popularity across the Kingdom, according to the SFA (Saudi
Sports For All), which estimates that about 1.1 percent of the population of Saudi Arabia cycles
weekly, an estimated 30 percent of those cyclists are women (All, 2020). “We will continue to
stage activities under the Quality of Life program, and work toward our goal to get people
involved in sports and activities of all types” said Al-Husseini. The SFA is striving to “mandate”
physical activity by 2030, hoping to grow the weekly activity to 40 percent in this time (Saudi,
n.d).
5.1 Market Size/Potential
The sample focus for examining market size and the potential for growth of a women’s cycling
garment within the Muslim women’s community we must first understand the community at
large and dial in on, Muslim Women 18-35 years of age. As well, when considering the
potential mark, which will also be unpacked in this section, there are economic and educational
considerations to take into account, such as likelihood of being able to afford a bike, access to
a bike and willingness (monetary
Muslim Population by Country 2020 means) to afford garments that are
,,~ ~ focused on cycling. The focus will
continue to dial in on Saudi Arabia,
which has predominantly Muslim
culture and has seen a growth in
acceptance of women on bikes and a
) movement towards women on bikes.
Muslim 
Saudi Arabia Muslim % of Total Muslim % of World Population: 
Population: 97 .10% Population: 1.60% 
31,878,000 
Population 
■ <10 ■ > 1 0 ■ >20 ■ >30 ■ >40 ■ >50 ■ >60 ■ >70 ■ >80 ■ >90 ■ >100 
Focusing the lens on Muslim global population as a whole will take into consideration all ages
and genders across the globe. According to a study in 2015, Islam has 1.8 billion adherents,
making up about 24.1% of the world population. Most Muslims are either of two
denominations: Sunni (87–90%, roughly 1.6 billion people) or Shia (10-13%, roughly 180–230
million people) (Cornell, 2017). From this we better understand that the Muslim population as a
whole is about a quarter of the worlds populaiton, validating that the market is quite large
drawing attention to potential high demand for Muslim women’s cycling apparel.
In Saudi Arabia, as a whole, the population is 34,813,871 and median age is 31.8 (25-54 years:
50.2%, male 10,350,028/female Population of Saudi Arabia (2020 and historical) 
6,804,479), this indicates that Saudi 
Yearly Urban Country's Arabia 
% Yearly Migrants Median Fertility Density Pop Urban Share of World Global 
over time there has been a Year Population Change Change (net) Age Rate (P/Km2) % Population World Pop Population Rank 
2020 34,813,871 1.59 % 545,343 134,979 31 .8 2.34 16 84.0 29,255,576 0.45 % 7,794,798,739 41 
steady growth and the average % 
2019 34,268,528 1.68 % 565,772 134,979 30.3 2.64 16 83.8 28,700,362 0.44% 7,713,468,100 41 
age is growing older, in part to a % 
2018 33,702,756 1.82 % 601 ,577 134,979 30.3 2.64 16 83.5 28,133,138 0.44 % 7,631 ,091 ,040 41 
drive in physical health % 
initiatives (Saudi Arabia, 2020).
6.0 Athlete Experience
To better understand the athlete experience with the lens on both the pedestrian and
professional level. To begin with the pedestrian scope taking a closer look a native Saudi
woman who has faced adversity within her community and has found the means not only to
get on a bike but also create a women center cycling community to encourage other women
like herself to cycle. Before 2013, women were not allowed to ride bikes as adults, this was a
religious and political based policy that went hand in hand with women not being allowed to be
out of the home unaccompanied by a male (Ramdani, 2013).
Nadima Abul- Enein grew up in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, hearing the same stories, bikes are not
for women, when she told people she wanted to take up cycling. But with the support of her
family, not only did she get a bike, the 18-year-old started Saudi Arabia's first women-only
cycling club, Bisklita (Vice, 2018).
Nadima is quoted saying: "When I was a child, I used to ride my bike around my
neighbourhood, but I stopped when I got older because of all the negative social pressure,"
she tells me. "But my mum and sisters encouraged me to pick it up again. When I did, I started
posting pictures of my rides on Instagram. It shocked me to see how many Saudi women
eventually got in touch to say they wanted to come on the ride. So that's when I decided to
start an amateur cycling club for girls” (Vice, 2018).
Furthermore, the professional women cyclists who competed in the 2018 SFA (Saudi Sports for
All Federation) series (20 km race), have found that this has been a major step in the right
direction for the sport of cycling, participants' entry has grown from 47 to 1,000 (Yeager, 2020).
This indicates that there is a growing market and desire for more professional women’s cycling
events in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.
As well, in the scope of professional racing, four women became the first Saudi female cycling
team to join the Global Biking Initiative (GBI) European tour, an annual seven-day ride
charitable race (Kutbi, 2018). “Sisters Fatimah and Yasa Al-Bloushi, Dina Al-Nasser and Anoud
Aljuraid — founder members of the HerRide cycling group — joined hundreds of cyclists from
all over the world earlier this month when the tour kicked off from Gothenburg in Sweden
before heading through Denmark and on to the port of Hamburg in northern Germany” (Kutbi,
2018). Although this is a benchmark for Saudi Arabian women cyclists, the challenges remain
for those joining the sport (Kutbi, 2018). “I mostly trained at home, but it’s hard for me to train in
areas where men usually train, such as Wadi Hanifa and Ammariyah,” she said. “However, I
was able to get over my fear and by the third day on the tour I was riding alongside trucks and
didn’t even notice” (Kutbi, 2018). Dina Al-Nasser sees this not only as a  challenge Saudi Arabia
women but for professional female cyclists in general (Kutbi, 2018).
Other accounts of women’s progress and struggle in the professional circuit stemming out of
the U.S., are accounts mirroring that of the growing Saudi women's community. “As female
riders continue to voice their opinions, rise through the ranks and strive for equality, change is
inevitable. Luckily, the heart of the story will ultimately stay the same: Girl meets bike. Girl loves
bike” (Bertine, 2012). To better understand the current state of professional female cycling in
the U.S., as few as seven professional teams are fully funded and fewer individual female
cyclists are earning a living wage (combining; salaries, prize winnings and endorsements)
(Bertine, 2012). “The majority of U.S. female racers earn well below the poverty-line income of
$11,170 for a single-person household. Couple that with any unforeseen setbacks, and the
dream of racing professionally becomes extremely fragile” (Berntine, 2012). On top of that, the
amount of racing that needs to be done and successfully can range anywhere from 20 to 50
event days per year, international competitors (racing a longer “off” season Oct-Feb) can
double in the number of races (Bertine, 2012). Based on the examples displayed of both native
Saudi women and rather progressive U.S. professional female cyclists, it can be seen that they
found their way to a bike as a child and over time have faced an uphill struggle to strive for
equality matched with mens cycling.
7.0 Competitor Product Landscape
A brief of background on the pedestrian side of the competitor and product landscape. While
most Muslim women wear the hijab for religious reasons as an expression of modesty, other
Arab or Muslim women choose to wear it to express cultural identity. Twenty-five-year-old
Baraah Luhaid has always loved cycling. Although women’s cycling was legalised in Jeddah
2013, it is only allowed in parks or on beaches, and only with a male guardian present.  Saudi
Arabia’s first women’s gender identifying cycling brand/community was born, Spokes Hub, this
started in 2017 in one of the only cycling shops in Jeddah, which also housed a cafe and
hosted workshops for women new to cycling (Heremy, 2017).
Outside of the brick and mortar in Jeddah, Suadi Arabia, there is a competitor market in the
ecommerce world globally. There is a vast Ecommerce landscape for the Abaya and Jilbab, the
price points can range from $150.00 - $30.00 US dollars. A major direct competitor will be
offered for purchases on Etsy, ScarfTurbanHijab, this company/maker has 4,533 sales at a 5
star rating (Black, n.d.). Item description; “The Harem pants complete with a long hijab outfit
ideal for sports, walks and picnics. This burka does not hinder your movements, lifting the leg
or arm you will not be afraid to expose the body, as all the limbs are fixed - band and cuff. For
young mothers the good news is that this costume is very easy to breastfeed and chase
children on the playground. And the best part is that this khimar is worn in just 1 minute. Does
not require pins” (Black, n.d.).  This Mulsim sport suit is priced at $100.00, selling over 788
items. The closest place this item will ship to is the UAE, United Arab Emirates, at a cost of
$20.00 (US dollars) in 1-3 business days (Black,n.d.).
Another direct competitor in the pedestrian landscape will be a company is Moultazimoun,
Muslim fashion designer, offering the Ensemble Tuniqu Papillon Strass Et Panton, priced at
44,90 euros, and ship worldwide (Ensemble, n.d.). This item has very little detail on the
webpage and no review but at its price it bridges the swath of what the market has to offer at
this time.
Shifting gears to the professional competitor landscape, the focus will be on the top performing
kits which the most elite women’s teams are wearing. The top of this list is London based
Rapha Performance Roadwear, worn by Canyon women’s elite team, is a sportswear and
lifestyle brand focused on road bicycle racing, clothing and accessories (Cycling, n.d.).
Canyon’s elite women’s team is wearing the Pro Team Kit, dual fabric design ideal for summer
racing, again considering the average temperature in Saudi Arabia is 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Pro fit jersey cost 145,00 EURO and Pro Team Bib (bottom) 230,00 EURO, ships globally, a
brief description of the garmen; “Designed to sit close to the skin, with a high stretch fabric that
hugs the body. Pro fit is applicable to our Pro Team, Shadow and Souplesse ranges” (Cycling,
n.d.).
Another competitor to consider on the professional side, ASSOS, a Switzerland and USA
based company started in 1976 with the invention of the first Lycra cycling short. Today, the
USA national road cycling team is fitted out in the SS. Jersey and T.Equipe_S7 Bib (USA, n.d.).
These Kits cost upwards of 160.00 USD for the jersey and 226.00 USD for the bibs ranking
towards the highest end price point for cycling kits (USA, n.d.).
To note here that that Nike Pro Hijab has made a positive impact on the market in regards to
mass media exposure and the athlete notablitiy, at the same time this product holds
controversy within the Muslim community (Dawling, 2018). Given that the athletic hijab has
been around for over a decade, the well done marketing of Nike is poinnet for the root design,
most of which has been made and modified by the athlete. As for, dutch designer Cindy van
den Bremen, designed hijabs for athletes in 1999, studied at Design Academy Eindhoven
during which she heard of a Muslim girl being removed form a gym class for wear a hijab
(Weiner, 2017). Van den Bremen claims to have brought her prototypes to Nike and many
Athletic brands globally in the late '90s (Weiner, 2017) . "I had designed the hijabs to fit in the
collections of leading brands in the first place, so I thought with all the publicity I got when I
first started that I should go to them," she says. "But they told me to do it myself—they never
gave me a reason, but I assume it was the sensitivity of the topic"(Weiner, 2017). Due to the
blurred lines of the origin of the athletic design and the sake of this research, the athletic hijab
is highly considered but will not be incorporated into the scope of this document, more due to
the landscape for the abaya characteristics of being a lower body garment.
7.1 Anatomy of Product
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,._ Slee•eslromn~ck ..... 
-- - --: f ------ -- --r t p.iJ l <)">)C 
An abaya is a free flowing total body concealing garment consisting IArms , Sleeveswidth ___ .!.'.:.1sf~ :l f l 
of a long-sleeved, black in style, floor length cloak. The abaya may
---r 
slip over the chest, but will usually open at the front, close with ----l 
snaps, zippers, or layers that overlap (Sheikh, 2019). The Abaya is
t i 
composed of 4 panels and the sleeves are part of the body panel, <JUJ.ilo.llJ\jl:, : Item Length : 
sleeves are not stitched on separately.
'i 
The professional cycling kit has more moving pieces and requires more engineering. The jersey
can come in a variety of cuts and fits and does not have a standard for women sizing, varying
brand to brand. As well, the cycling short, which also houses a chamois, has minimal seam
construction to avoid rubbing in sensitive points of contact. The shape and cut to the cycling
jersey (top) is longer in the back and shorter in the front, this is to optimise the bent over
position when reaching the handlebars. There are varying factors when it comes to the neck
and tightness of this fit, this can be a reflection of the type of riding the user will be doing. The
tighter the fit in the body the more aerodynamic less wind resistance the jersey will have.
Sizing again as mentioned is not congruent across brands, this can vary by country of origin
and manufacturing distributor. Other compositions and features a cycling jersey can have are
UV protection, which is in the form of SPF, sun protection factor, based on the same rating
factor as sunscreen (Stevenson, 2020). Other cuts of the jersey can come in the form of
----5---
k 
rain/wind shell and winterized long sleeves, which will be significantly  articulated in the arm
region, allowing the handlebars to be reached without resistance. On the back side of the
jersey you will find a pocket with three compartments that house an elastic band along the top
to secure personals while on a ride. The composition of the cycling short or bib is made of a
Lycra athletic material allowing for more stretch,a chamois padding insert for protection against
vibration, road noise through the frame. The chamois is a 2/3/4 density antimicrobial foam pad
that consists of both open and closed cell foam structures bonded together, which both
mimics the anatomy of the bike seat and that of the groin region.
8.0 Biomechanics and Physiology of Cycling
“Biomechanics of riding a bicycle; there are 3 points of contact in cycling. Meaning 3 points of
the body that make contact with the bike” (Pioneercyclo, 2015):
● Pelvis on the saddle
● Hand on the handlebars TORSO 
PELVIC/ SPINE AERODYNAM IC DRAG 
PELI/IC ROTATION ANGEL : POWER 
● Foot on the pedal (Pioneercyclo, LUMBAR FLEXION SHOULDER : HANDLEBAR 
KNEE 
2015) 72° TOP PEDAL STROKE POWER DRIVER 
LEG OVER PEDAL 
141 ' EXTENSION 
SADDLE HEIGHT FOOT 
104° -124° FLEXION 
BALL of FOOT 
Based on stress and repetitive strain that
UPRIGHT/ SI.JGHT LEAN I MOOERIUE LEAN /Ol:EP LEAN 
these areas wear on there is cause for
concern when it comes to injury, such as ¥i¥~~~ 
pain, swelling, weakness and numbness.
The riding position plays the next most important role when it comes to the biomechanics and
injury prevention of riding (Pioneercyclo, 2015). Overuse and correct positioning go hand in
hand, a proper fitting can lead to not only a more comfortable ride but allows the rider to
maximize power output allowing the rider to improve splits in the saddle. What is correct can
vary rider to rider, age, type of riding, and other physical attributes (flexibility and anatomical
veriables) (Pioneercyclo, 2015). Breaking down the biomechanics further into two sections,
phases of the stroke (what muscles are
Muscles used during a pedal stroke 
activated) and joints.
The stroke has two phases Top Dead Center
(TDC) the power phase and Bottom Dead
Center (BDC) the push phase. The TDC is
-■~a- .....-...... . GM.i> activating first the gluteus, second the -SM 
· lk-llmofflllonOM<ldl • lr Gf\~ltltHll, •<il.. 
■ V~Mmtdlll!, • YM - ~•'IOI. 
quadricep and finally the calf during the . ............i . . .- ■ TIIMlh- •tA 
Hlg~T,.inlng 
power (down ward) phase of the stroke. The
BDC is activating first the tibialis anterior, second the hamstring and finally the hip flexor
heelside (back end) of stoke (Pioneercyclo, 2015). Key joints of the lower limbs that are used
during cycling, pelvis-hips (socket joint), allows the and guides the flexion of the hip through
the stroke. The knee acts as a hinge lever for the femur, which is the monster of torque during
the stroke. Lastly the ankle, responsible for the dorsiflexion and plantarflexion at the bottom of
the stroke (Pioneercyclo, 2015).
The above biomechanical factors of cycling require the rider to have full range of motion,
stemming from the three points of contact, this is a reflection of the close to body garments
that are worn while cycling. The flexion of the joints at the hip and the extension of the arms to
the handlebars require the garment to expand and recoil, other considerations are
aerodynamics and safety requiring the clothing choices to fit close to the body allowing for little
wind resistance, clear visibility to the lower limbs and  safety from being caught in the chain
stay. This poses a problem for women cycling in loose fitting abaya cloaks, given the biggest
concern is the garment getting caught in the chain stay, as well, aero dynamically speaking
would create drag making riding more difficult.
The physiology, with consideration to thermoregulation, the body functions in a heat exchange
equilibrium with the environment, giving off heat and efficiency of heat loss is dependent on
temperature and humidity (Heat, 2016). Evaporation accounts for the majority of heat loss
during exercise, functioning as an output of heat (Heat, 2016). Perspiration (evaporation off
put), the water contained in sweat goes through a chemical phase change (liquid -> gas) (Heat,
2016). There are several areas of the body that are primary sites of heat gain and loss; palms o,
head/face, and respiratory system play major roles in maintaining temperature homeostasis
(Heat, 2016).  “As heat is generated during exercise or other mechanisms, your body’s
response is to shunt blood toward the periphery and increase vasodilation of superficial blood
vessels close to the skin” (Heat, 2016).
Again to reiterate,  thermoregulation is a process that allows your body to maintain its core
internal temperature, this is a state of equilibrium done through sweating and vasodilatation
(Holland, 2017) Vasodilatation is the act of blood vessels under your skin getting wider,
increasing blood flow to your skin where it is cooler, allowing the body release heat through
heat radiation (Holland, 2017). Managing homeostasis, heat regulation, when sweat builds up
on skin it needs to be removed, through a wicking process, this provides comfort and regulates
body temperature (Bowers, 2020). The lighter and looser the garments, the more effective core
temperature regulation becomes, the loose clothing allows air to pass along the skin and exit,
speeding evaporation and carrying off excess heat (Palca, 2012).
A study was done to measure the core temperature and perceived comfort under a variable of
different ambient temperatures (ranged from 23 to 33 °C with 5 °C intervals for the operative
temperature) under two controls of thermal resistance being, amount of clothing they were
wearing (0.5 and 1.39 clo) (Liu, 2013). Under control 0.5 clo; women wore T-shirts, pants,
female briefs, sandal and bra (total clothing thermal resistance) and under control 1.39 clo;
women wore underwear with long legs and sleeves, ankle-length athletic socks, shoes, jacket,
pants, female briefs and bra (total clothing thermal resistance) (Liu, 2013). Finding from this
)8 
c:::J \J9clo 
l! ~~~~~~~~~ (i ~~~rn~~~ 
31 26 30 Face N«kTrunk Arm BandThigh Leg Foot Mean Face NcckTrunk Arm HandThigh Leg FOOi Mean OpenHi~lcmp:fflUl'C ('C) 
Download : Download full-size image Download : Download full-size image Download : Download lull-size image 
Fig. 4. The effect of clothing thermal resistance on female skin temperature for 
Fig. 5. The effect of clothing thermal resistance on female skin temperature for Fig. 12. The effects of clothing thermal resistance and operatfre temperature on 
operati\,etemperature28°C. 
operative temperature 33 °C. thermal sensation. 
study found that as ambient (operative) temperature rose, skin temperatures dropped
noticeable when wearing more (1.39 clo) clothing in the neck and hand as more clothing was
added, this closed the differential gap (Liu, 2013).
From these findings, it could be believed that there is a relative benefit to wearing more clothing
in hotter climates to assist with moisture management and UV (ultra violet, radiant heat)
protection to manage homeostasis. In other findings the insulation is dependent on the
thickness of the material (i.e. the enclosed air layer) and less on the fibre type (Havenith, 2003).
“The fibres mainly influence the amount of radiative heat transfer, as they reflect, absorb and
reemit radiation” (Havenith, 2003). Clothing choice consisting of several material layers the total
insulation will be much higher than could be expected from the insulation of the material layer
alone, apart from its effect on heat exchange, which affects metabolic rate and is increased by
the weight of clothing (Havenith, 2003).  Things to note and consider, textile composition (fabric
choice; thickness, open or closed cell), tightness to the body and color selection, which will be
unpacked in coming sections. Both finding yield results that indicate that moving moisture
away from the body is key to thermoregulation, in Havenith the emphasis is layering and weight
management (progressive phase-change materials, which have a structure that absorbs and
releases heat given moisture levels) (Havenith, 2003). In consideration to the abaya, weight and
material compassion will be the point of focus to manage homeostasis.
9.0 State of the Art Materials
Traditional fibers used to compose the Abaya are typically; cotton jersey, linen and polyester.
Examining the compositions of each material to better understand how it is being used and
potentially a better use. All textiles are fibers made under two classifications non synthetic and
synthetic, in the Pedestrian scope of Mulsim womens clothing there is a heavier (weight) used
textile, opposing in the Professional scope more synthetic fibers are used for performance
needs. Breaking down the four step process as seen above into spinning, weaving,
dyeing/printing/finish, and manufacturing.
The first step in the process is spinning to transform the fibrous material into yarn, the fibrous
material goes through a drying and shrinking phase called carding (Textile, 2020). The carding
process involves the material being attenuated in a spinning mill, the rover is then spun on to a
spindle (Textile, 2020).   In a carding machine the fibres are combed by a series of rotating
drums and moving carding bars are equipped with metal combing teeth. As a result, a soft
uniform fibre band is formed. In the fibre band, called sliver, the fibres lie parallel to each other
(Bullon, 2017).
Exploring the weaving process, knitting will be the focus, an interlooping of the yarn in a warp
and weft manner. Qualities of the fiber best suited for knitting are fine, smooth, elastic and
strong yarns, weaved together through the warp and weft process (Bullon, 2017).
“Weft knitting is a one fibre technique, which means that only one fibre is needed to build the
stitches. The needles are moved separately, whereas the warp knitting needles are moved
simultaneously. Therefore, all needles need the fibre material at the same time. For this reason,
the yarn is supplied with the help of warp beams. The most important knitwear fabrics are
circular knitted, warp knitted, flat-knitted fabrics and fully-fashioned fabrics. Weft knitting is the
more diverse, widely spread and larger of the two sectors, and represents around one quarter
of the total of apparel fabric compared with about one sixth for warp knitting” (Bullon, 2017).
The finishing stage of the fabric will either/or all chemically treated, dyed, or printed, this is the
superficial stage where treatments are specified for the end use purpose/function of the
textile/garment (Bullon, 2017). These processes in the finishing stage are divided into two
categories, chemical and mechanical processes (Bullon, 2017).  “Chemical finishing covers
those treatments that alter the performance of the textile fabric where the chemical is the major
component of the change. Mechanical finishing refers to certain types of mechanical devices
that physically alters the fabric” (Bullon, 2017). The finishing stage is the last and prep stage
before the textile goes to production for market and end use. Lastly the textile is shipped to an
assembly manufacturing factory, this is where patterns are cut, samples and final go to market
products are produced.
Cotton (non synthetic/natural) fibers have a multilayered structure, the structure of the primary
cell wall of the cotton fibre, and the outer surface layer (the cuticle), has a major influence on
fibre properties (Dochia, 2012). “Cotton fiber has a fibrillar structure which consists of a primary
wall, a secondary wall and a lumen, under a microscope a cotton fibre looks like a twisted
ribbon or a collapsed and twisted tube. These twists are called convolutions: there are about
60 convolutions per centimetre. The convolutions give cotton an uneven fibre surface, which
increases inter-fibre friction and enables fine cotton yarns of
adequate strength to be spun” (Dochia, 2012). Cotton fiber is one
of the highly acclaimed natural fibers under the genus of
Gossypium made up of cellulose with 1,4-d-glucopyranose
structural units. Finishing on cotton has various techniques,
coatings can be applied over the surface of fibers through (b) 
methods such as chemical vapor deposition, physical vapor
deposition, electrochemical deposition, plasma polymerization,
UV irradiation–induced polymerization, and admicellar
polymerization (Dochia, 2012).
Linen (non- synthetic/ natural) , like cotton, is a natural fiber, lightweight and sourced from the
stem of the flax plant (Marroquin, 2020). Flax fibers are very strong and durable (3x stronger
than cotton), due to their crystalline structure that transforms into a linen fabric that is strong
and durable (Marroquin, 2020). “From linen thread or yarn, fine toweling and dress fabrics may
be woven, fabric is a popular choice for warm-weather clothing, also feels cool in the summer
but appears crisp and fresh even in hot weather (Linen, 2006). Linen production starts by
separating flax fibers from the woody interior of flax stems, soaking raw flax stalks,
manufacturers may use chemicals to achieve the same effect (Hodakel, 2019). Before flax
fibers are spun into yarn, these chemicals are washed away, but residual toxic substances may
remain on chemically-separated flax fiber (Hodakel,2019). Finishes of linen flax manufacturers
dry the finished yarn and reel it onto bobbin, yarn is then ready to be dyed and treated
(Hodakel,2019).
Linking the pedestrian and the professional is polyester, a synthetic man made polymer PET
(polyethylene terephthalate) (Sewport (Ed.), 2019). This synthetic polymer is formed by
combining terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol to create a compound, called polymerization,
this filament can then be spun into a yarn (Sewport, 2019). This process happens before the
Materials 
Pedestrian Professional 
Cotton Jersey 
P o l yeste r /S pandex 
Co Ito n 
Polyester 
yarn is dyed or post processed (same base as plastic) for other uses such as, homeware or
industrial applications (Sewport, 2019). Different types of polyester fabrics can range from
ethylene (most used), plant based (biodegradable) or PCDT (not as popular) (Sewport, 2019).
“The fabric used in bicycle shorts usually consists of a blend of polyester, cotton, spandex, and
nylon. Regardless of the materials used, they are usually spun and then combined into a single
fabric. In spinning, filaments are drawn out of a spinneret, a device that works much like a
shower head. Some filaments (such as spandex) are spun into an acid bath, while others are
spun into open air. After combining the threads into a single fabric and then washing and
dyeing, the fabric is cut into various panels” (Made How (Ed.), 2006).
Bicycle short fabrics considerations include; water-resistant wicking capabilities, drying time,
breathability, and windproofing (Made How (Ed.), 2006). Synthetic fabrics are mainly used for
the short such as elastane/spandex (stable fabric), a polyurethane fiber that returns to its
original shape after stretching, today there is a blending of these fabrics with natural fibers like
cotton (Made How (Ed.), 2006).
Invented in Germany in 1937 to replace rubber, later this technology was adapted by DuPont to
create Nylon and Polyester, brand name Lycra, for a more dynamic textile (Norway, 2019). The
composition of elastane which is never used on its own but blended with other fibers, is a
polyurethane base formed by a chemical reaction with diisocyanate, its ability to recoil and
hold shape refers to its elastomer character (Norway, 2019). Other characteristics that are
valued in elastane are its abrasion resistance, lightweight and tactile smooth/softness (Norway,
2019).
The inner liner, chamois, is usually made from synthetic open cell foam, EVA, which is
mechanically pressure molded to match anatomical contours, containing a petroleum-based
fiber such as polypropylene, which enhances its wicking capabilities (Made How (Ed.), 2006).
The Cycling jersey is made of synthetic fabrics that are designed to move sweat away from the
body and help cool the core body temperature, these are mostly made of a blend of polyester
and spandex, which has been detailed above (Label, 2020).  Lightweight, antibacterial, wicking
properties, breathable fabrics under armpit for better ventilation. High quality and performance
fabrics made to meet your needs” (Label, 2020).
Future materials can look like a few shown above, the objectives of the materials are to be
more recycled (sustainable), antimicrobial (hygiene/self cleaning) and aerodynamic (articulated
and fitted to the body). Moving over the first two large swatches are base materials for the
professional cyclist, these are a Polyester and Elastane/PA blend.
Although these are the traditional materials that already compose the kit, the manufacturing
and limiting color can champion a more sustainable approach to the kit. Qualities of the 415
Revolutional Eco Elastane/PA blend is its thermo-regulatory and UV protection properties, as
for the Singtex- S.Leisure it's printability allows for the fabric to be more articulated with less
seem construction and it anti- odor properties allows you to go longer with less washes (water
waste) (Manifattura, 2020 & ISPO (Ed.), 2020).
Future material prospects for the pedestrian, abaya, will stay in the same lane with
sustainability and have a unique patterning to the knitted fabric for an advanced moisture
control. Above on the right in the larger circles, a merino wool and a jersey blend are featured.
Future of Materials 
Properties 
Pol yeste r Merino Wool 
Singtex- S.Lnsu re SOFT LAYER DEGRADABLE 
SW-80135CO 100% WOM 
Recycled PU Printable, Woven Fabric Th ermal-Regulating, Moisture-
Anti- Oder and BlueSign Certifled Wicking, Antimicrobial, 
Breathable, Biodegradable 
Antimicrobial 22% Lycra, 78% PA rec. 2% EA, 49% PA rec., 49% lyocell 
415 REVOLUTIONAL ECO 6080RO fQlARTE!:: DELTA® 
Shirt, Pants & Tights LIGHTWEIGHT COOL MESH JERSEY 
Knit, Quick Dry, Thermo-
Knit Active or Circular, Stretch, 
Regulatory, UV Cut 50+ 
Aerod y namic Protection Thermo-Regulatory 
Merino wool has many great attributes, some of which can keep you both warm and cool given
its moisture management properties, as well it can be harvested in a sustainable manner.
Directly below is the Polartec Delta, a jersey blend (2% Elastane, 49% Polyamide and 49%
Lyocell) the blending of these three fibers allows for this meshing to keep the body cool by
harnessing the body’s natural sweat behaviors (Polartec, 2020).
9.1 Materials and Sourcing
Product ex: Elite
Jersey
Part Performance goals Material that will solve Ideas of where to source the
this material
Jersey Body Breathability Poly/blend knit - Look in bins for scrap
UV protection Moisture Wicking Knit - Look in labs/studio
Anti-Microbial - Contact Supplier Schoeller for
coldblack and 3xdry
- Mill End for proto material
Hijab Breathability Dry Fit (Poly/Spandex - Look in bins
Blend) - Look in Labs under tables
Laser Etched/Perforations - Contact Supplier
Textured Mesh Knit - Test Lab materials for best
Pique Knit etching of knit textile
- Mill End
Zipper Closure/Fixture Injection Molded Zipper - Contact Supplier YKK, fpr
VISLON® Standard
- Look in Labs, see if the lengths
are correct for the Jersey and back
pockets
- Mill End selection for more
accurate length for proto
Pockets Storage Mesh Knit - Look in bins
Poly/Spandex Blend - Look in studio
Elastic Bands - Contact same suppliers as jersey
materials
- Mill End
Sleeves/Under Arm UV protection Mesh Knit - Look in bins
Aerodynamic Poly/Spandex Blend - Look under tables in studio
Mobility Textured Nylon/Spandex - Contact suppliers Denver
Breathability Mesh Knit fabrics/fabrics.com
Product ex: Elite
Bibs
Part Performance goals Material that will solve Ideas of where to source the
this material
Bib Leg Breathability Poly/blend Knit - Look in bins for scrap
Mobility Moisture Wicking Knit - Look in labs/studio
Coverage - Contact Supplier Schoeller for
Anti-Microbial coldblack and 3xdry
- Mill End for proto material
Boby Straps Fit Under Jersey Poly/Bend Warp Mesh - Look in bins
Mobility Elastic Bands - Look in NucLab
- Mill End for different widths
- Contact Supplier @ Aixi or
Back of Knee Breathability Textured Nylon/Spandex - Look in bins
Textured Mesh Knit - Look under tables in studio
Mesh Knit - Contact suppliers Denver
fabrics/fabrics.com
Ankle fixture Stay in place Silicone Tape Grip - Look in 4th floor studio back wall
Elastic Band - 3D or sublimation printer on
Elastic
- Laminate Heat transfer (?)
Chamois Portective 3 Dimensional, 10 mm High - Lab in bins
Cushion Impact Foam, 6 mm Air - Lab 3rd floor
Anti-Microbial Mesh, 4 mm Open Cell - Mill End
- Contact Supplier
- Organic grow options…
(mushroom or other foam subs to
inoculate)
Product: Pedestrian
Top
Part Performance goals Material that will solve Ideas of where to source the
this material
Top Body Breathability Polyester Knit - Look in bins
Laser Cut Perforations - Lab 4th floor
Light Weight - Mill End
Aerodynamic - Contact supplier @ Mehler for
Anti-Microbial the Airtex-classic 100% polyester
Hijab Breathability Microfiber - Look in bins
Mobility Polyester/Nylon(polyamid - Lab 4th floor
e) Knit blend - Mill End
- Contact supplier @ Mehler or
Schoeller
Articulation Straps Adjustable Textured Mesh Knit - Ask Boqi
Secure Webbing - Andy and Bax
Fastener - Mill End
Clip/Buckle
Velcro
Pockets Hidden Mesh Knit - Look in bins
Secure - Look under tables in studio
- Contact suppliers Denver
fabrics/fabrics.com
Product ex:
Pedestrian Bottom
Part Performance goals Material that will solve Ideas of where to source the
this material
Base Legs Anti-Microbial Polyester knit - Look in bins
Laser Cut perforations - Lab 4th floor
- Mill End
- Contact supplier @ Mehler for
the Airtex-Classic 100% Polyester
Waist/Ankle Secure Silicone Tape Grip - Look in 4th floor studio back wall
Breathability Elastic Band - 3D or sublimation printer on
Elastic
- Laminate Heat transfer (?)
Articulation Adjustable Webbing - Ask Boqi
Mechanism Secure Fastener - Andy and Bax
Clip/Buckle - Mill End
Velcro
10.0 State of the Art Manufacturing
Textile manufacturing involves a number of processes: fibre production, yarn (spinning)
production, fabric production (weaving), pretreatment of fabrics, dyeing, printing and finishing
treatments (Keycolour, 2016). The textile industry uses extensive machinery to produce the
textiles (fabrics), these pieces of equipment greatly vary in robustness, being they are
heavy-duty industrial machines (Keycolour, 2016).
Breaking down the construction of the manufacturing for the cycling short is as such; the fabric
(usually a blend of polyester, cotton, spandex, and nylon) is produced, spinning and combining
into a single fabric, followed by washing, drying and dyeing (Made How, 2006). Followed by,
spraying with a H2O resistant finish before being cut to the specs of the patterns by designer
(Made How, 2006). These patterns are then single straight stitched together (finished with a
coverstitch) ,  seams may be offset for a smoother finish due to the chafing that occurs when
riding (Made How, 2006). Lastly, the elastic waistband and thigh grips are sewn with a
coverstitch into the short of the assembled short, cuffed and hemmed, with a coverstitch(Made
How, 2006).
The chamois liner's are cut according to pattern specs, bonded or laminated together, next
they are zig-zag stitched along the outer edges to the interior of the short with a strip of tape
for securing placement (Made How, 2006). Similarly the cycling jersey is manufactured and
assembled in the same way, a pattern is made, cut to specs and assembled with the process
of bonding or sewing with a single needle straight stitch finished with serger overlocking stitch
the pattern pieces together (Label, 2020). Zippers and elastic bands will then be added to the
jersey and finally the back one piece pocket will be added and sewn, with a single needle
straight stitch, in the 3 part pocket to the body of the jersey (Label, 2020).
As for the construction and manufacturing of the Abaya, little to know information was
documented, this led to refining the search to the closest thing which is an outer garment.
Taking a coat manufacturing step by step the understanding of what it would construct a
Abaya can be clearly understood. The pieces that make the body of the coat are cut by a
computer-operated cutter or large electrical cutter. The fabric is cut according to patterns that
have been graded to each size the raincoat will be made in.
“The interlining (which makes collars, cuffs, front facings, sleeve straps, and pocket welts stiff)
is put inside the appropriate parts. Each part that contains interlining is fused by an automated
fusing machine. An industrial sewing machine, single needle straight stitch, operator uses an
industrial machine to sew all the small parts of the coat, including the collar, sleeve and pocket
welts. The large parts of the shell of the coat are assembled on an industrial sewing machine
by a worker. First the right back panel and left back panel are joined together, creating a back
seam. Then the rest of the large parts of the coat (the front of the coat, the sleeves etc.) are
created in similar fashion. It is sewn, single needle straight stitch, into the appropriate pieces of
the shell by a person. All the large pieces of the coat are now assembled and sewn, serger
overlocking stitch, together by a worker using an industrial sewing machine. An automated
machine makes button-holes and sews the buttons on the raincoat. Using an industrial sewing
machine,serger overlocking stitch, the trim and sleeves are sewn on by hand. The finished coat
is examined by an inspector for quality control purposes. A worker puts tags on the coat and
puts it on the hanger. A polybag is put over the coat, usually by a machine called an automatic
bagger. The bagged coats are loaded into the shipping container by a worker” (Coat, 2006).
11.0 Patent Landscape
The exploration and focus of the patent/intellectual property investigation was geared to look at
a variety of material technologies that contribute to thermo-regulations, cooling systems.
Theois was the focus due to two major factors, environment and traditional garments
requirements. These searches were done under the scope of cycling and evolved into a larger
theme of athletic wear and materials. In the diagram each patent features an abstract, which
goes into the general details of the contributing factors as to why this would be a garment and
technology to consider. Further, this explores long cycling pants, a long sleeve baselayer,
cycling shorts with a unique fabric technology, an athletic top ventilation system, a bi-pattern
bonded cycling jersey, and a tri-pattern cycling jersey.  To note on the pedestrian landscape of
the abaya, there is a lack of patent information accessible. There are hijab (headscarf) patents,
although the body and scope of this project is focusing on the lower body garment and not of
the headscarf. Through further investigation, convertible clothing patents have been uncovered
and at this stage in the research it is not yet relevant to include those explorations of design
until further work like models and more user insight can be unpacked. The value of the hijab
patents are insightful, speaking to the quickness and versatility of the headscarf garment, but
again will not serve this study due to the nature of the abaya at this time.
Intellectual Property 
Pan I Top/ Base layer Cycling Short/ Fabric 
··,uJ·  .\ 1» ;:"1..- :f,,~ 'i:::::::7 /fJX '" 
,. !Cl 11:1 ~: 
1'IO m,.,m.  
IQ,. ,. . 
"'·' 
US79.4597082 Inventor: Nicolas Belluye, US20180279694A1 Inventor: Jake Theno, David Durham, US6918140B 1 lnventor:Shane Kevin Cooper 
Unit•d s1a1.. Aur81ien Bringard, Gr8gory United Stat•• Jillian Miranda, Tom Burgher, u~it•d Stat.. Current Assignee: De feet 
Bayort Lindsay Mellen International Inc 
Current Assignee: Decathlon SA Current Assignee: Fax Head Inc 
The present invention relates to tights, i.e. to a 
A base layer of a garment includes a waist section, an A multi-layer protective fabric includes an inner 
garment covering at least the bottom portion of the 
upper leg section, and a lower leg section . The waist layer, .QJ'.'I middle layer, and an outer wicking layer. 
body, from the waist down to the ankles, and 
section is positioned to correspond with and receive a The outer fabric layer includes an inside layer of 
possibly also part of the top portion of the body. 
waist and crotch region of a wearer. The waist section hydrophobic material, an outside layer of 
The invention relates more particularly to tights 
includes a base portion, a mesh portion, a compressive hydrophilic material, and an intermediate layer of 
having localized zones that present a compression 
portion, and a durable portion (Theno, 2017) hydrophobic monofHament yarns extending between 
effect and that ore specially designed for 
and knitted together with the outside and inside 
practicing a sport in which the legs move 
layers, and promotes wicking of moisture from a 
repetitively, in particular running or cycling 
wearer's skin to the outer layer (Cooper, 2003) . 
(Belluye, 2005) . 
Intellectual Property 
Ventilation Bi-Pattern/Material 
Tri - Pattern/ Materia I 
FIG.4 FIG.3 
US1046309782 Inventor: Michael R. Baron, US20180332906A 1 US20070271671 A 1 Inventor: Shinpei Okajima Invento r: Chris lintomon 
Uni1.dS10111 Karin E. Carte r Current Assignee : Shimano Inc 
Current Assignee: Nike Inc 
A jersey is disclose d, which includes a first portion made 
An article of apparel is disclosed that includes zones 
of a first material, and a second portion bonded to the A cycling garment or bicycle jersey is provided with a front 
with a textile having a strudure than changes or is 
first portion. The Rrst portion comprises a main fabric, panel, a bock panel, and a pair of sleeve sedions. The 
otherwise modified by a physical stimulus, such as the 
which is adapted to cover at least a chest and a stomach back panel has a Rrst back section at le ast partially made 
presence of water or a temperature change, to modify a 
of the user. The peripheral sub-portion is mode of a of a Rrst fabric, and a pair of second back sections 
property of the textile . The zones may be along a center 
second material, which is more flexible and more attached to the Rrst bock section in Rrst and second regions 
back area and/or side areas of the apparel, and the 
breathable than the Rrst material. Whe reby, the jersey being at least partially located outside of Rrst and second 
textile may increase in air permeability when exposed 
could better Rt the body shape of the user {lintaman, areas corresponding to a wearer's shoulder blades when 
to water. In some embodiments, slits are formed in the 
2017) . the cycling garme nt worn (Okajima, 2006) . 
textile (Baran, 2005). 
12.0 Graphics
Professional graphics can range from
team to team and country to country
(national representation). The Saudi
Arabian Countries graphics seen here
are fast darting lines evoking a sense of
speed and power. This is juxtaposed
with the professional kit of a privately
sponsored team which will be logo filled ~ 
elsseU 
and can be more on trend with the color
T/RlEIC 
of the forecasted season. On the other \ 
t I g 
hand if it is a private team sponsored by cc--... •~.   (zj C ,i Z' 
C UN/TEDSTIJTES 
0 
0 POSTI ll SEnVICE r 
a more branded logo, the kit will follow 'I  J 
suit and conform to the graphics that 1~ ma ■ Ti,oru 
" Wo\1•1 '1,1'"i e', 1 @ Port~,,. 
are top of mind for the general
consumer.
The pedestrian side of the graphic lens has seen many changes and freedoms of expression
when it comes to the traditional abaya. The modern abaya is still generally neutral in its
appearance and construction but women have been customizing their abaya finding ways to
ornament or decorate in recent years  (Pournelle, 2004). “The ornamentation is often located
along the cuffs, necklines, front or back of the jacket. To add flourish and glitter, beads,
sequins, painted yarn, ribbon, crystals, lace, etc” (Pournelle, 2004).
12.1 Color Co Io r 
Professional color consideration will be
determined by country of origin and the team
logo or brand that they are sponsored by or
representing. Saudi Arabian national colors are,
Cadmium Green (Hex: #006C35, RGB: 0,108,
53) and White (Hex: #FFFFFF, RGB: 255, 255,
255) (Flag, n.d.). As of now the color scheme
would be based on the current market and
forecast for the winter season 2022/2023, based on WGSN, honeycomb (coloro 034-76-27),
jade (coloro 062-57-10), dark oak (coloro 017-23-07), lazuli blue (coloro 122-25-24), orchid
flower (coloro 150-38-31) (WGSN, n.d.).
Pedestrian consideration to color is not a rule, but the traditional abaya is black covering the
whole body except the head, feet, and hands. The black color of the abaya has also been a
topic of discussion. “I’ve heard a story about a merchant who sold abayas. Right now, we
know that black is not the best color in the heat, but during that time the merchant was mainly
intent on gaining a profit, so he sold black abayas to everyone, and it became popular in this
region,” Al-Mutawa said (Gazelle, 2013) “Black is still the traditional and most common base
color, but abayas can also be found in other colors such as dark blue, brown, green, and
purple.”(Sheikh, 2019) Future colorways will be in the neutral family, bringing to mind the
average annual temperature and to remain non threatening to the legal authorities while cycling
in public and feeling protected form harassments not to draw too much attention to oneself.
12. 2 Current Product Space
Given the current state of a global pandemic and the one brick and mortar in Jeddah, Saudi
Arabia, e-commerce is the current platform for the aya and cycling kits. E-commerce is the
buying and selling of goods on the internet, that
Approximately how much did you spend 
can look like business to business, business to last year (in £) on cycling? 
consumer, consumer to consumer, and consumer 1200 1,120 
1,050 1,Q30 
to business (Bloomenthal, n.d.). Most of the buying 980 1000 910 
of active Abaya is done on the internet, through 800 
600 
Etsy or newer companies taking action in the
400 
gload situation. As for the shift to e-commerce
200 
amongst larger companies on the professional
0 
Average New Recent Established Mature 
scope of things, ie Rapha and Assos, who have
always had a large ecommerce presence not selling in larger cycling stores, but rather out of
brand specific brick and mortar.
To better get an understanding on a whole of womens trending in spending in the space of
cycling, Strava (fitness app) conducted a survey on women and cycling, which had a sample
size of 5,000 women based out of the UK,  (Clarke, 2016). “The industry should further take
note of the dataset, which reveals the average spend per year to be £1,050 in 2015. This figure
is made up of all purchases, including event
participation and other expenditure. When Strava 
Women's Cycling Report 
buying cycling apparel, female cyclists
Do you think there are barriers for Think then. . are barncr~ 
women wanting to get into cycling? 
considered performance (92%), style (89%)
New starters (less than 1 yr) 
and price (88%)” (Clarke, 2016). Other
Recent (1-5 yrs) 
considerations the Clarke unveils are the
data driven barriers to entry to make a point Established (6-10 yrs) 
on what the spending trends are in the Long Term (10+ yrs) 
market, which informs what type of
products the survey sample group would be
purchasing.
13.0 SWOT Analysi
SWOT PEDESTRIAN LOOK 
Abaya Western 
STRENGTHS 
STRENGTHS 
fir,t of its kind, in othletic space 
-Silhouette is fitting for Abaya -Silhoue tte is articulated allowing 
-Mate rials are loose fitting th e rider lo hove visibility to the 
-Color is neutral pedals c;ind surroundings 
-Material• ore thermoregulotory 
-Color ways c;ire e ndl ess 
WEAKNESSES 
WEAKNESSES 
-Performance Prohibits Wom en Form fitting and loo reviewing for 
hinJ:~:;0}i~l~ili,ti~~ th:i~:dals the Muslim female rider Moy attract the wrong attention 
OPPORTUNITIES OPPORTUNITIES 
- Material Articulate for o -Performance draping in the mid 
convertible Silhouette on and off region for modeity, while allowing 
the bike with exerciH in mind the lower limb1 to 1of•ly p•dal ond 
th• 1l••vH to not ob51ruct vi•w1 
THREATS 
THREATS 
These compc;inies ore Muslim own -Manufacturing con b• co1tly for 
• Manufacturing is costly o couplH 1ilhou.ll•; fru flowing 
raising the price of the complex clook, while arliculoting it to 
silhouette fundion on and off th• bik• 
SWOT PROFESSIONAL LOOK 
Entry Level Pro 
STRENGTHS 
STRENGTHS 
-Silhouette Amor• relox , d lit 
Pric • Point is mor• affordobl• -Silhouette Tighter Fit for better Aerodynamics 
-Mate rials still do their job -Moteriol1; arliculoted cul for better Thermo-
Pollern/Graphiei ore 1ofter R.gulotion 
-Color; country or spon1or 1p1cific 
WEAKNESSES 
WEAKNESSES 
Sizing for women in thi1 market 
are 1till incon1i1tent from brond Th• cul is too r•li ev ing for th, 
to brand Mu sli m femal• rid er 
Too reviling for Mu1lim tradition The price point is high for a 
un1pon1or1d Athl1t1 
OPPORTUNITIES 
OPPORTUNITIES 
Create a Cen.u s ol sizing for the 
over age Mu 1l im women 
as base sizing - Performance; Expand the 
Creote unique patterning lo cover th, garm e nt lo be full body coverog1, 
en tire body while mointoining thermo-r• gulatory 
properties 
-Colo,~1E0xt;:i (t::~dd:i7h oJ.,(;x{~juion 
THREATS 
THREATS 
-M::r!::,~~u~io"l.sc,;u~~,~~i;h:'ly 
01rodynomic function 
Findings from the SWOT analysis for the Pedestrian user; what is on the market for an athletic
abaya vs. what is on the market for a western user based on the same function for cycling. The
sport abaya offers a free flowing traditional covering garment with more of a pant look and
feeling allowing for greater mobility, although when it comes to riding a bike this will still hinder
the riders visibility and depending on the bike they choose to ride the pant may not allow for
enough from to step over the crossbar and pedal. In the western pedestrian appearing cycling
kit, far too much skin is being shown to keep with the tradition and legal restriction in Saudi
Arabia. As well it is too form fitting, where it does outperform the sport abaya in its field of
visibility the rider has while functioning the bike in an urban environment making it a safer kit to
wear.
Findings from the SWOT analysis for the Professional user; had some overlap, the biggest
takeaway is that the kit is far too revealing and the cost for adding higher thermo-regulatory
material can be costly. The goal of the professional kit based on the SWOT analysis is to
maintain and secure full body coverage allowing the rider to be more at ease in the kit without
worries of being harassed if the garment starts to shift and move on the ride.
13.1 SWOT FOR BASELINE PRODUCTS & IDEATION PLAN
BASELINE PRODUCTS 
RAPHA NIKE RAPHA RAPHA SCARFTURBANHIJAB 
PRO TEAM ARM SCREENS PRO HIJAB 2.0 PRO TEAM BIB PRO TEAM LONG SLEEVE MUSLIM SPORT SUIT 
AERO JERSEY 
PRODUCT: Women’s Cycling ELITE Jersey, UV
Sleeves & Hijab
Part Name: Body of Jersey
Problem Identification from Research Ideation path
SWOT (Back Panel) - Create a One panel back panel of the
Thermo Opportunity: Zoning of a Textured Jersey, break down the pattern into heat
Mesh and a Poly Panel, a lighter mesh for zones
breathability would work under the back pockets - Use these zones to integrate a textured
as well line the pockets. mesh and other mesh textiles to assistant
in the evaporative process
Mobility Opportunity: The silhouette and - Connection point of front panel to back
cut/seam line can wrap around the back panel panel and bring the seam line construction
becominging more ergonomic when in the riding just onto the back
position and staying in place when performing
dynamic movements on the bike.
Thermo Weaknesses: All one material, does not - Test the pocket placement (as is from
fit the needs of the Muslim women rider due to baseline garment) to evaluate how the new
length, pocket placement and the heavy weight multi pattern back panel works
of material choice. - Use a variety of seam sewing construction,
flatlock and single needle stitch with
overlocking stitch)
Mobility Weaknesses: Fit of baseline is quite
tight around the hips, both providing stability but
also becomes quite restricting in other parts of
the body, creating stress and strain.
Thermo Strengths: Limiting the amount of seam - Zone the texture meshing fabric to match
lines and zoning to avoid the riders hot spots on the results of the Thermoregulation testing
the body. The shoulder yoke allows for the rider and retest with new iterations of back panel
to take advantage of aerodynamic seam lines patterning
which in the long run would have a cooling effect. - Test tensile strength and silicon
compatibility for mobility
Mobility Strengths: Silicon bonding on the - Analyse stress and strain on the back
lower waste of the back panel increases stability panel and where pulling may be
of the jersey by allowing it to stay securely in
place.
Thermo Threats: By adding more panels to the - Understand Riders perceive heat and
back panel, shifting away from a one piece comfort of new patterning
construction, this could create more perceived - Motion Capture Stress and Strain of new
heat drawing attention to the seam lines joints of Jersey
the new meshing textile.
Mobility Threats: Adding a lighter meshing
bottom panel to the back, the fabric has greater
stretch and is more porous.
SWOT (Pocket) - Moisture wicking bi-component textile that
Thermo Opportunity: better breathability on the pulls and disperces sweat
back (upper and lower pocket region) Zipper - Mesh knit (under back pockets)
bunching and movement - Zippers on pockets lightweight and floating
- Floating Pockets on back to vent moisture
Mobility Opportunity: placement on lower back - One continuous long sleeve
to shift silhouette to two pocket instead of three,
room for a bridge between pocket for extra layer
storage if needed
Thermo Weaknesses: pocket placement and - Pocket material (mesh and/or moisture
zipper placement on current garment add extra wicking)
layer of material that is typically the same as - 2 or 3 sections
jersey base material. Current ideation could - Venting system separating pocket from
create extra seam line of alter the idea of having base
a venting system under the pocket - How does that move when removing items
from pocket
Mobility Weaknesses: the ideation on having a
detached pocket could pose problems when
reaching and finding the pocket
Thermo Strengths: light weight, breathable, - Structurally hhaveing the exterior of the
minimizing the amount of material needed for the pocket structural (ripstop/poly blend)
function of the pocket - Inside of pocket breathable mesh
- 2x larger offset pockets off the spine
Mobility Strengths: placement of pockets just moving outward
offset the middle of the back wit take pressure off - Seam Construction is single needle zigzag
of the riders spine and make it easier for the rider - Vacuum Mold(?)
to reach the pocket - Flat Knit into body of back panel
Thermo Threats: Zipper placement will depend - Exploring venting systems and
on riders needs and wants. Venting system may intersections
not work in the event that the back pockets are - Breathable functions perforated pockets
too heavy once they are full. that old objects at the same time
- Systems that allow you to reach or retract
Mobility Threats:Pockets could be too large not
holding objects in place allowing for the body of
the garment to move/shift
SWOT (Shoulder Region) - Polartec’s Delta fabric for underarm and
back of shoulder
Thermo Opportunity: Arm hole area reduce - Single stitch with coverstitch
moisture making it more breathable - Zoning Upper back (shoulder blade) with
underarm
Mobility Opportunity: a more dynamic shoulder - Potential gusset for mobility
region when reaching for the back pocket and - Floating shoulder
down to water bottle,
Thermo Weaknesses: Potentially too many - Mitigate a dynamic seam that is strong
seam lines that could not moisture wick as well enough to move with the delta fabric and
as single back/shoulder panel old poly blend inplace
Mobility Weaknesses: Seam lines could bunch
or stress/strain when reaching and then leaning
forward in riding position
Thermo Strengths: Allows for the sweat zone of Zoning options could look like a flat knit of
the shoulder and upper back to moisture manage a pattern shift to eliminate seamline
better to cool the rest of the body - Continuation of aero material further on to
the back
Mobility Strengths: puts less strain on the - ZigZag stitch for stretch
M1/M2 movements - Combination of raglan cut on back panel
for increased mobility and straight seam on
front body panel f
Thermo Threats: There may be other areas that
require more moisture management, is this
Mobility Threats: the shift in material could
stretch over time not recovering becoming
stretched over time
SWOT (Sleeve) - Poly blend knit inside arm
- Aero knit on the outside
Thermo Opportunity: breathability in the upper - Articulation (darting or seam line ergo) in
arm, eliminate the overplan of material where the elbow area
UV sleeve meets the jersey. Zoning of lower arm
and upper arm for evaporative process, lower
arm to hand needs mgmt for hotter temps
Mobility Opportunity: focus on the elbow
articulation, eliminate bunching at the elbow
when in reaching motion and drinking movement
Thermo Weaknesses: zoning of the upper and - Seam construction
lower are with limited seam lines, silhouette - Sweat mapping for upper and lower arm
inline with the Rapha aero jersey
Mobility Weaknesses: placement of seam line
and darting could cause rubbing and movement
Thermo Strengths: over time allows for sweat
to act as a cooling system, aero knit will help
moisture mgmt
Mobility Strengths: assist with the pull and
stress from shoulder region, elbow articulation
can help from material bunching during testing of
M1/M2 (Movement 1 and 2)
Thermo Threats: Fit and silhouette, what are - Fit test and silhouette sketches
are size (length and diameter) from upper arm to
lower arm, collect data to develop fit standar for
long sleeve
Mobility Threats: seam line or dart may not
function effectively enough
Part Name: Hijab
Problem Identification from Research Ideation path
SWOT (Top of head) - Mesh knit
Thermo Opportunity: Breathability, while - Seam construction
providing the coverage that rider would need if - Silhouette to benchmark
the helmet is removed at any time rider is out of - Laser cut micro perforation
the home
Mobility Opportunity: stays in place,
benchmark product functioned well for this
Thermo Weaknesses: providing proper - 4 silhouettes for testing with a variety of
coverage when the helmet is removed, helmet
- Chin strap tunnel systems
Mobility Weaknesses: mesh knit will stretch
over time
Thermo Strengths: breathability, one of the - Limit the amount of seams in garment
hottest regions at all temperatures (75-95), - Considerations to pressure points and
integrate into  body of the jersey restricting seam-lines
- Ease of function (on/off)
Mobility Strengths: strap integration ease of
visibility
Thermo Threats: does it work with all helmets, - Prototyping out the kinks
can it provide proper coverage - Testing Iterations of Proto in the Lab to
measure perceived comfort of rider
Mobility Threats: strap system versatility
between helmet and hijab
SWOT (Neck/Chin) - Mesh knit (sides of hijab on neck)
Thermo Opportunity: allow chin strap of helmet - Flat seam coverstitch
to thread through the hijab to relieve material - Hook system/weaving system for
from being stuck against chin, mesh on sides of hijab/jersey attachment
neck for evaporation mgmt, integrate in to jersey
Mobility Opportunity: seam line and
construction (cover overlocking stitch) to allow
for ease of 180 blind spot check when the cyclist
is moving head left and right
Thermo Weaknesses: baseline product, did not - Attachment hood integration
allow for material to breathe under strap - Laser cut perforations on sides of hijab
- Tunnel under chin for strap
Mobility Weaknesses: baseline product,
stretched and moved when looked left and right
during M3
Thermo Strengths: breathability, under the chin,
material could be mesh/laser cut
Mobility Strengths: extra stabilization for the
hijab integrated with the helmet
Thermo Threats: laser cuts allow for - Prototyping interactions of the chin strap &
breathability, seam lines working with the how that mechanism functions with the
materials hijab and zipper placement
- Fit testing
Mobility Threats: universal fit with face shapes - Laser cuts patterns (speed up the time
and sizes, along with helmet preferred tightness. between iterations and manipulation of
patterns to understand what works best)
PRODUCT: Women’s ELITE Cycling BIBS
Part Name: Bibs/Shorts
Problem Identification from Research Ideation path
SWOT (Thigh) - Poly blend for base material
Thermo Opportunity: breathability and panel - Polyester has natural UV protective
construction of the of the short, extend the short properties
panel to knee
Mobility Opportunity: seam/pattern
construction (overlocking cover stitch) in line with
benchmark with extensions of the thigh piece
cutting down to the knee
Thermo Weaknesses: based on baseline - UV Knit (with denser poly fibers)
product the overlapping of UV sleeve and short - Colorway exploration
was causing most heat on leg - Pigment refraction
- Flatlock and Overlock stitch to avoid
Mobility Weaknesses: adding more paneling rubbing and discomfort
can create more seam construction which can - Seam construction linear to the movement
cause more discomfort to the rider over time of the stroke avoiding placement on the
back of knee
Thermo Threats: Addition of more poly blend - Options for flat knitting a transition material
that is more insulative than the UV sleeve will not (UV protecting on the thigh)
manage the heat well enough
Mobility Threats: stress and strain over time,
baseline UV sleeves stretched considerable
during the 3 testers rides
SWOT (Knee) - Textured Mesh knit for back of
Thermo Opportunity: mesh knit on back of knee/moisture mgmt
knee for breathability - Over locking Cover stitch- Seams stay flat
and don't fold during the flexion phase of
Mobility Opportunity: flexion and extension not the stroke
hindered by the addition of this mesh knit
Thermo Weaknesses: seam line at the top of - Test work like model for longer periods
knee or extending the front leg panel down to - Measure stress or strain
ankle - Identity cuts/seam lines  that relive
Mobility Weaknesses: stress and strain on the
knee form a more rigid poly blend, how could this
affect the patella over longer periods of time on
the bike
Thermo Strengths: allows for the silhouette to - Measure is the rider sweating less
fully protect the rider from the sun and with mesh
knit help with the evolatrative process
Mobility Strengths: flexion and extension not
hindered by the addition of this mesh knit
Thermo Threats: over heating, the material
does not protect the rider enough from the sun
and mgmt of sweat is worsened
Mobility Threats: resistance in the knee during
flexion of the pedal stroke
SWOT (Lower Leg) - mesh knit
Thermo Opportunity: breathability on back of - Laser cut perforations
leg (muscle/calves) mesh knit - 4 way stretch poly blend
Mobility Opportunity: flexion and extension not
hindered by the addition of this mesh knit
Thermo Weaknesses: baseline product held - Test stress/strain
moisture during as the temperature rose - Material testing of modest coverage and
visibility through the garment
Thermo Strengths: allows for breathability and
moisture mgmt
Thermo Threats: mesh will be see through not
covering the cyclist in a modest way
SWOT (Chamois) -  laser cutting and vacuum form
Thermo Opportunity: breathability, antimicrobial - 4 foam density thickness
properties, perforation to assist in evaporation -open cell foam structure for better breathability
process -2x silhouette (pedestrian, less pelvic lean/sits
bones and breathability) (elite, greater pelvic
Mobility Opportunity: specific for each riding lean/more support needed to cradle labia)
style, Elite cyclist in an aggressive position with
have pressure on the sits bones where the force
in pushing back on the as opposed to straight
down on the sits bones
Thermo Weaknesses: baseline was
inconsistent rider to rider hard to pull data
PRODUCT: Women’s Cycling PEDESTRIAN Top
Part Name: TOP
Problem Identification from Research Ideation path
SWOT (Built in Hijab/Hood) - Intersectional cross between the sports
Thermo Opportunity: Allow for more volume in Hijab and a jacket hood
the hijab, creating more volume in the hijab/hood - Find the baseline pattern that meets the
will create a cooling barrier activating the needs of Traditional dress and begin to
evaporation process. Material (polyester) will implement into the body of the top
benefit the wick and UV protection necessary. - Mobility of ease of dressing, test zipper and
other variety of opening/closure
Mobility Opportunity: Easier on/off of the mechanisms
hijab/hood with a half zip from the midpoint of the - Explore Placement of tightening
front panel, will allow for quick adjustments and cord/mechanism tunnel
ease of dressing. A tightening cord can be - Questions to ask; how does it allow for
tunneled through the hijab/hood to make fitting security and visibility for the safety of the
more universal rider
Thermo Weaknesses: The volume of the hijab - Test volumes needed to create a cooling
without venting system could allow for the air to system
act in the inverse way trapping the heat in the - Could a venting system be integrated into
Hijab the Hijab/Hood in a discrete way while
Mobility Weaknesses: A zipper closure on a covering all hair
looser fitting garment may create discomfort, - Mobility of zipper will be explored through
visibility constraints with a zipper closer becomes size of zipper and other fastener
a concern mechanism such as snaps or velcro
Thermo Strengths: Baseline testing showed - Test these theories on the prototype
that the perceived heat was less in the areas - Record Data
were the garment was looser fitting - Overlay data and plot findings
Mobility Strengths: Perceived comfort during
baseline testing and after adjustments to the
garment the rider made ease of mobility
increased
Thermo Threats: Fit of the hijab will not be
compatible with a variety of helmets
Mobility Threats: Is the ability of adjusting with
ease effective enough
SWOT (Sleeves) - Intersect the pattern of the baseline abaya
Thermo Opportunity: Add volume and shorten top with a western hooded windbreaker
the sleeve, findings examined that the volume in - Where is the intersection, in the sleeve
the sleeve had a cooling effect. By shortening the construction?
sleeve and using a UV under sleeve for - Test lengths and find length that allows the
coverage. This allows for more venting and full cyclist to have clear visibility to their hands
coverage while riding and while signaling
- The Aerodynamics of the sleeve only need
Mobility Opportunity: Ability for the rider to to increase/improve a small margin to be
clearly see their hands and communicate to the an improvement.
drivers what direction the are going in increase - Motion Capture the Sleeve Under control
by the shortening of the sleeve with additional and measure for drag/movement
reflective properties
Aerodynamic Opportunity: Detaching the
sleeves from the body of the garment allows for
air to cut between the arms (in riding position)
and the rider's body.
Thermo Weaknesses: will a one way ventilation - Consideration for ideation, be able to not
system be effective enough, moisture and implement changes as Testing
management at the top of sleeve, seam joint to proceeds
the body, still may produce a hot spot.
Perforations to UV sleeve at the top of arm could
be  necessary
Mobility Weaknesses: UV sleeve worn under
the top potential could rub and cause resistance
Aerodynamic Weaknesses: Only increasing
performance by a small margin
Thermo Strengths: Mimicking the benefits of - Small scale volume studies
the first garment, which was draped and allowed - Test in Lab what volume that gives the rider
for volume/breathability perceived comfort and cooling effects
Mobility Strengths: Visibility to bike functions
while riding and Communication with other traffic
on the road
Aerodynamic Strengths: Margin although small
is creating a more enjoyable and efficient
experience for the rider
Thermo Threats: The shorter cut of the sleeve - Survey the Consumer to get findinging
may not be appealing for more traditional Mulism around the out of home safety and interest
Women, Potentially causing them to be in wearing said ¾ sleeve
uncomfortable in public spaces
Mobility Threats: As stated about the shorted ¾
cut of the sleeve will not appeal to a larger
spanning community
SWOT (Front Panel) - Pull inspiration from over garments that
Thermo Opportunity: Increase the evaporation have venting systems
process through the use of hidden venting - How is the venting system activated?
systems  on the from panel of the top - Can the venting system be deployed or is it
fixed at all times?
Mobility Opportunity: integration of easy zips - Explore through sketching how length and
to allow for quick adjustability and venting when cut of the front system could have venting
moisture management becomes necessary systems and integrate the zip fixture for the
hijab/hood
Aerodynamic Opportunity: Cut the front Panel
to be more ergonomic with the rider, as to not get
in the way of the legs while riding
Thermo Weaknesses: how will the venting - Test proto with a base layer that will be
system work with the baselayer garment worn worn by tester consistently throughout the
under the top, with there need to be more or less study
to have an effective cooling mechanism. - Confirm that this is a base layer that is
worn within the community
Mobility Weaknesses: how does the base layer
material interact with the tops front panel textile,
could the be resistance or pulling
Aerodynamic Weaknesses: if articulation is not
effective enough will the loose fitting front panel
balloon to sleeves creating more drag
Thermo Strengths: The innovation of venting - Test the front and back system together in
systems from front panel to back panel can full scale with air pumping at the rider from
create a vacuum system allowing for air to move head on
efficiently through the garment - Apply a variety of zipper systems and back
up system to best tested with one hand
Mobility Strengths: Placement and direction of application/function
the side venting zippers and the orientation of
the zippers will allow for the rider to  utilized with
on hand both open/close
Aerodynamic Strengths: In the riding position
(over handle bars) the front panel will have
limited seams allowing for maxing air flow over
the garment
Thermo Threats: The venting system on the - Consumer feedback as the testing and
front may not be appealing or feel too revealing integration progresses
for more traditional Mulism Women, potentially - Test may result in not needing the
causing them to be uncomfortable in public perforations, consumer consideration
spaces should still be considered to move forward
Mobility Threats: The venting system on the
side may be perceived as too revealing for the
more traditional muslim women
Aerodynamic Threats: The side venting system
when deployed can create more drag
SWOT (Back Panel) - Intersections of a top coat to the baseline
Thermo Opportunity: Venting, Biomimicry of abaya that was tested in the initial study.
armobilla and accordion style venting systems. - What is on the market for the cycling
Holistic system with front panel to have an in and poncho, what is working and not working
out put of air flow and evaporation for that? (Aero, Mobility , Fit)
- Explore back panel tail lengths, test a
Mobility Opportunity: Space for the rider to variety of 3-4 lengths and move forward
potentially carry a bag and not have the back with the top 2
panel be invasive or bunch up. If integration of a - Mobility test a cut in the tail center bottom
back pocket (for keys and small accessories) in for restrictions
the garment reachability and garment shifting - Mobility test how the volume of the back
will be key considerations panel functions with the side venting and a
a pack on
Aerodynamic Opportunity: Allowing for more
volume to be held in the back panel of the top
garment due to the largest part of the body being
exposed while riding, Aerodynamics and margin
of improvement will not be held to great
importance.
Thermo Weaknesses: The balance of what is - Explore and compare side by side venting
enough and what is too many back panel venting system  and laser cut perforations system
systems (spaces, slots) i preferoations with a with mesh backing
mesh backing a more effective route to go - What doe thi then look like when the rider
without damaging the integrity of the fabric, is wearing a pack
allowing it to be at risk of ripping or creating more
drag
Mobility Weaknesses: If the venting system is
on the back how will the rider ramain cool on the
back if transporting a back on their backs?
Thermo Strengths: Allowing for venting in the - Consumer feedback on Prototyping, would
garment either through a flap venting system or a you wear this garment and would you feel
perforated on, venting on the back panel with safe leaving the house in it?
allow for the fully covered Muslim women to ride
with a maintained evaporative cool mechanism in
place
Mobility Strengths: Back Panel volume allows
for the body to move without restrictions, also the
volume to be mostly on the back of the garment
will protect the riders form/shape outside of the
home
Thermo Threats: The Consumer will be able to
find a large ventilated windbreaker that with do
the job of venting but will not have a cycling cut
Mobility Threats: Does the Muslim rider need to
be conserned with carrying  bag while riding, if
this a future ideation to be designed for
PRODUCT: Women’s Cycling PEDESTRIAN
Bottom
Part Name: Bottom
Problem Identification from Research Ideation path
SWOT (Wasit) - Exploreintersetions and how fastener
Thermo Opportunity: Minimal approach, shift systems function with ease
from a heavy elastic bank to a lighter weight - What is on the market for waist systems
fastener system. Venting back pocket with now, how could this perform the same or
envelope pocket function. better
- Sketch the ideation process
Mobility Opportunity: A lighter system with - Prototype 4 functioning iterations
webbing and silicon or plastic buckles, or a PALS - Pleating to add Volume during pedal stroke
system with a notch and hook, would make the and to relieve the force of the pulling on
riders ability to adjust the garment with ease and garment during extension
comfort on the bike.
Thermo Weaknesses: The adding of a fixed - Explore buckle systems with elastic to be
system may not function as desire and will have prepared if the need to have a larger fit
a combination of both a elastic waist and a scope requires this function to be put in
buckle system creating more bluck and less place
breathability in the waist (garment and textile
overlapping each other)
Mobility Weaknesses: There potentially may
need to be a yoke installed in the back panel of
the pant to allow for greater flexion of the hip and
not imposing on the waist mechanism
Thermo Strengths: Ability to quickly envelop - Test the envelope pocket and intersections
pocket venting system along with quick with origami to see if there are systems
adjustability to breather in the waist when that will open on their own given the angle
needed, As well less material is a benefit for less of the rider position
overlapping of textiles
Mobility Strengths: Adapted systems from
packs and other pieces of equipment that uses
the quick and secure fasteners
Thermo Threats: Will not be as utilized as - Consumer feedback and testing in the
possible, potential moves away from the riding position to understand how robust or
simplicity of the garment making it unattractive or bulky the buckle system feels and if the
intimidating for the user consumer needs this function
- How minimal can the system be while still
Mobility Threats: The need to adjust may work functioning
well for some riders but be unnecessary for over
and find that it is bulky and to robust for their
needs
SWOT (Leg/Pant) - How can volume be kept while remaining
Thermo Opportunity: Allowing for the pant to aerodynamic?
still have volume but not hinder the rider, darting - Idea of convertible and versatility,
and pleating will create volume along with a agreement remains deceptively simple not
gusset system (which will be discussed further drawing to it undue attention
down). This rider could also have venting on both
right and left thigh sides with mesh backing and
a micro zipper system to quickly vent the upper
leg.
Mobility Opportunity: Adding reflectivity to the
garment for safety, Darting and articulation at the
knees for better ergonomic function, ¾ cropping
the pant for protection of getting caught in the
chain stay while riding
Thermo Weaknesses: If the opportunity to open - Test with venting systems closed to better
venting on the sides doesn’t arise how practical understand the perceived heat if the are
is the rest of the volume at provident a cooling not about to be opened
mechanism - How could the darts move up or down or
be adjustable or have larger fit range
Mobility Weaknesses: The Darting could not be
the correct fit for every rider, making it
challenging to come up with the proper
placement for the darts.
Thermo Strengths: the ability to had venting - Test and validate the function of these
when the riders needs gives back some of that claims
control to the rider to use the venting when they
need it
Mobility Strengths: The ¾ pant leg allows for a
worry free ride of getting cough in the chain stay
and allows for the rider to be seen with greater
visibility with reflective accents.
Thermo Threats: the Community of Mulism - Consumer Feedback
women in high restricted areas may not be able
to use these functions on the garment, deeming
the useless
Mobility Threats: the Community of Mulism
women in high restricted areas may not be able
to use these functions on the garment, deeming
the useless
SWOT (Crotch) - Fit and cut verse the baseline hammer pant
Thermo Opportunity: The greatest opportunity - How to work backwards from the draped
here is with the addition of a breathable gusset pant to more of a athletic cut
and potential to be compatible with a chamois
Mobility Opportunity: Shifting away from a
hammer pant deep drop crotch will allow the
rider to bike with less interference and shifting of
the pant leg. This could look like a 2-3 inch drop
from the crotch allowing for a free forming
appearance while still providing the
Thermo Weaknesses: Moisture management, - What antimicrobial textiles are current on
and chamois integration if rider wanted to wear the market? What is the goal weight of the
under the pant textile?
- What current Mountain Biking Pants/Shorts
Mobility Weaknesses: There potentially may are doing to integrate with the use of a
need to be a yoke installed in the back panel of Chamois while riding?
the pant to allow for greater flexion of the hip and
not imposing on the waist mechanism
Thermo Strengths: The potential to add a - Test the desired perforations and integrity
expandable gusset if the needed to be more of the gusset, How much and what size
volume in the crotch off the bike, as well could a perforation is needed and how much mesh
system of laser cut perforations and a mesh backing out be needed?
backing provide coverage and allow for proper - Does this double layer create more thermo
ventilation in the the inner thigh region heat that it does evaporate the moisture?
- Mobility, how low or high in practice does
Mobility Strengths: Lifting the Hammer drop the critch need to be, test in 3-4 lengths
crotch to a more practical length while still once desired length is found how will a
providing modesty will allow the rider to reach guest further function.
the water bottle from Test M1/M2 with more
ease. As well, the higher crotch will allow the
rider to visibility see more of their surroundings
and importantly their feet. When a Rider is new
to riding this tends to be where their gaze drifts
(although not recommended, it could
nonetheless be a hazard)
Thermo Threats: The crotch region is a larger - Consumer feedback, how would this be
religious reason that the women in the Muslim perceived in the middle east?
comunity for many years has been looked down - Could there be different cuts for different
upon, how could the venting system here cause regions depending on needs and safety
greater concerns for the female to leave the
house in said garment .
Mobility Threats: The seam construction could
be stress and strain affecting the integrity of the
garment instilling fear in the surer that the
garment will not adequately provide protection
SWOT (Ankle) - Test lengths, and what dimensions the
Thermo Opportunity: ¾ and eliminating the accordion expansion would need to be
elastic band at the bottom. The gusset/accordion given the riders comfort and it being now
panel on the back of the ankle will allow for an extra layer near the lower leg.
volume to be handled when off of the bike - How much stretch so the deployable
creating a straighter look to the pant, concealing webbing need to keep the venting system
the form of the body and also functions as a closed
venting system. - As well how much velcro needs to be
attached to the exterior of the pant for this
Mobility Opportunity: A system to close the to be fully functioning
venting system when riding the bike could be put
into place given a piece of webbing tunneled into
the lower part of the mant leg that can be
deployed to snitch down onto a piece of velcro
Aerodynamic Opportunity: Creating a UV
Sleeve or sock to bridge the gap between shin
and ankle the tightness of the sleeve will
naturally act aerodynamically. Replacing pant
elastic the system with a single layer UV sleeve
or potentially a UV sock that will reach up under
the pant leg to provide full coverage
Thermo Weaknesses: When riding and the - Test failed systems
accordian is concealed what is the predicted - How little and how much elastic/velcro for
heat the system to fail
Mobility Weaknesses: Potential for the
tightening system to fail and the venting
accordion to get caught in the chain stain
Thermo Strengths: Adaptive venting system, - Test how easy it is to control the system
giving the rider full control over their experience while riding or in the midst of a bike ride
and cooling system
Mobility Strengths: Allows for the system to be
as tight or as loose as the riders desires and
needs creating a safety mindset in it own right
Thermo Threats: Consumer and Market needs - Consumer feedback, how would this be
perceived in the middle east?
Mobility Threats:Consumer and Market needs
13.2 Testing Plan Baseline Products
Testing took place in a 16 foot storage container, a total of 8 subjects took place in the testing
experience. Below you will find the process that took place when beginning the testing and what
needs to be met where per each tester. As well you will find the consent form the was
considered given the nature of high temperatures each rider would be subject to. Each Subject
willing to test for the Hurriyya Collection would either be testing in the elite kit or in the
pedestrian kit, each test would take up to an hour and a half. The subject was welcome to bring
water and snacks and anything else to make themselves more comfortable. As well below you
will see a brief that was sent before they agreed to the test allowing them to have a better
understanding of what to expect during the testing process.
TESTING BRIEF 
HURRIYYA - LAB 
Research goal: understand how the elite and 
What to bring: 
pedestrian cycling kit performs and functions 
under a controlled environment. Testing for Bike 
thermoregulated balance will be tested in Bibs/Shorts 
environment as close to Jeddah, Saudi Arabia Summer Jersey 
through heat and humidity simulation to Helmet 
understand sweat patterers and comfort levels. Shoes (sneakers or clips) 
Tes ting for Mobility will be under a set of Mask 
dynamic movements that a cyclist (either elite or Water 
pedestrian) will have to under go to understand Jacket for between rides 
strain/stress of garment and comfort levels Change of clothes for post ride 
performing each task. Testing for Aerodynamics Snack (if you think you'll need it) 
will be set under a controlled environment with 
calibrated wind simulation to understand 
movement of garment under each bench mark 
speed. 
What to Exped during testing. 
Riding on a stationary bike (either on rollers or 
fixed stand), if it is possible to bring your own PHASE 2: 
bike that is preferred! 
Motion Capture Study, rider will change into 
Rider will be riding in a Shipping Container, this RAPHA AERO JERSEY and asked to preform 3 
is a temperature controlled environment. dynamic movements (M 1-MJ) while riding. 
Photo and video documentation will take place 
PHASE 1: during this study & followed by a Q&A. 
Rider will be asked to ride for Jxl0min M 1: Reaching for back pocket on jersey placing 
intervals. object and removing it, repeat Jx 
First 10 minutes, temperature will be set to 75 M2: Reaching for water bottle and placing it, 
degrees, followed by photo documentation and repeat Jx 
Q&A (this will take place outside of the 
container) MJ: 180 blind spot check, rider will look at 
targets on the wall marked at 0,45,90 degrees, 
Second 10 min, temp will be set to 85 degrees repeat Jx 
& followed by photo documentation and Q&A 
PHASE 3: 
Third 10 min, temp will be set to 95 degrees & 
followed by photo documentation and Q&A Feed back and over all experience Q&A 
Phase of Study Procedure Data Collected Timing
Subject Outreach to subjects via NONE NA
Recruitment text message, DM
instagram & “word of
mouth”
Subject Sign-up Subject confirms (via Name, telephone, email <5 minutes
text/DM) if they are & apparel size
interested in joining the
study. Then once confirmed
asked to fill out apparel size
Data Collection Subjects need to read and Consent form 5 minutes
(Subject is at the sing consent form, agreeing completion: printed
Lab) to a 6 part physically name, signature & date
engaging study (a scanned
copy will be emailed),
acknowledging Covid-19
UO protocol will be upheld
during testing (tester &1
subject masked in Lab
once)
Subject fills-out Subject Subject’s name, 7 minutes
general background info to address, telephone,
data collection email, date of birth,
(confirming age/ gender gender identity, height,
identity/ experience) weight (if wish to
disclose),  medical
history, current injuries,
experience level,
exercise
day/weekly/monthly,
brand loyalty
Elite Kit & Bike Subject changes into Elite NONE 10 minutes
fitting Kit for 3 test T/M/A (Bibs,
jersey, arm/leg UV sleeves,
hijab, helmet) subject is
asked to bring their own
bike/shoes/helmet
(have/want)
Phase of Study Procedure Data Collected Timing
Data Collection Photograph subject prior to Front view 2 minutes
(Subject is at the test T/M/A Side view
Lab) Back view
T1-T3 Elite test Perform Elite Kit test T Front view 40 minutes
(thermo) Side view
3x 10 minute ride (75/85/95 Back view
degree controlled ambient
air temps) Scale 1-10 comfort for
each set
Photograph subject
between each set Map where the felt the
most hottest on diagram
Survey between each set
Video Documentation
Video documentation for
analysis
M1-M3 Elite test Perform Elite Kit test M Scale 1-10 comfort for 20 minutes
(Mobility) each set
M1- reach for back pocket Map where the felt the
placing object and removing most strain on diagram
object
M2- remove water bottle/ Video Documentation
place water bottle
M3- 180 blind spot check
(0/45/90 degrees) perform
left & right
Video documentation for
analysis of stain stress on
garment
A1-A3 Elite Test Perform Elite Kit test A Scale 1-10 comfort for 20 minutes
(Aerodynamics) each set
Place markers on Subject Map where the felt the
for motion capture analysis most strain on diagram
Wind Gauge to measure air Video Documentation
speed (W1/W2/W3) Analysis
Subject will ride for 5
minutes in each wind
condition
Survey between each set
Video documentation for
analysis of motion capture
in slow motion to measure
changes in garment
movement
End of Data Collect Elite Kit from Weigh Kit 5 minutes
Collection Subject weigh garment for
Session sweat water weight
Subject will change back
into their own clothes
Data Collection Subject changes into Front view 2 minutes
(Subject is at the Pedestrian Kit for 3 test Side view
Lab) T/M/A (Abaya, Hammer Back view
pants and cloaked top)
Pedestrian Kit subject is asked to bring
their own bike/shoes/helmet
(have/want) Photograph
subject prior to test T/M/A
T1-T3 Perform Pedestrian Kit test Front view 40 minutes
Pedestrian Kit T (thermo) Side view
Back view
3x 10 minute ride (75/85/95
degree controlled ambient Scale 1-10 comfort for
air temps) each set
Photograph subject Map where the felt the
between each set most hottest on diagram
Survey between each set Video Documentation
Video documentation for
analysis
Phase of Study Procedure Data Collected Timing
M1-M3 Perform Pedestrian Kit test Scale 1-10 comfort for 20 minutes
Pedestrian Kit M (Mobility) each set
M1- Traffic arm signals Map where the felt the
M2- remove water bottle/ most strain on diagram
place water bottle
M3- 180 blind spot check Video Documentation
(0/45/90 degrees) perform
left & right
Video documentation for
analysis of stain stress on
garment
A1-A3 Perform Pedestrian Kit test Scale 1-10 comfort for 20 minutes
Pedestrian Kit A (Aerodynamics) each set
Place markers on Subject
for motion capture analysis Map where the felt the
most strain on diagram
Wind Gauge to measure air
speed (W1/W2/W3) Video Documentation
Analysis
Subject will ride for 5
minutes in each wind
condition
Survey between each set
Video documentation for
analysis of motion capture
in slow motion to measure
changes in garment
movement
End of Data Collect Pedestrian Kit from Weigh Kit 5 minutes
Collection Subject weigh garment for
Session sweat water weight
Subject will change back
into their own clothes
13.3 HURRIYYA LAB (build out and data collection format)
PERFORMANCE RESEARCH 
LAB/EQUIP/TEST 
TE ST 
1 THERMOREGUlATION 
Heoleri regulate ambient air temperature, gauging with 
a thermometer (temp /humidity) 
10 minute intervals@ each temp {75/85/95•f) 
90 ' 45 ' 0 Survey Subjed 1-10 on heat & location 
fi'fs1 Photograph sweat spots 
~ 
(S> MOBIL IT Y 
ELITE TEST PEDESTRIAN TEST 
M 1- Bock Pocket Teat Ml - Traffic Signal Test 
M2 - Water Bottle Test M2- Water Bottle Teat 
MJ - 180 Blind Spot Test M3- 180 Blind Spot Test 
(0/45/90 degrees) (0/ 45/90 degrees) 
left & right left & right 
- N,- ,T_apo,c.l-_-.  Motion Capture through the use of video Heat Hoart- -•2 - documentation and markers placed of both the ELITE & r- Eln:175 ,._,..3 -·· ...... PEDESTRIAN kits NrVolume Pedeolrian:1 60 y..,,o.. ...... ~ 
HURRIYYA TESTING 
HOW/WHY 
THERM O/M 08/l /TY/ AERO 
How do we improve cycling performance for elite and pedestrian female athletes 
through easy of mobility, aerodynamics & thermoregulation management, while 
keeping with the traditional Muslim dress code. 
PURPOSE 
ATHLETE ' S 
Research goal is to understand how the elite and pede strian kit 
performs & functions under a controlled environment. Testing for ~ H E I G H T 
thermoregulated balance will be tested in environment as close to ~ 
Jeddah, Saudi Arabia through heat and humidity simulation to TESTER 3 -4 5 8" 
understand sweat potterers and comfort levels . Testing for Mobility will 
be under a set of dynamic movements that a cyclist (either elite or TESTER 2 3 5 5 7" 
pedestrian) will have to under go to understand strain/stre ss of garment 
and comfort level s pe rforming e ach task . Testing for Aerodynamics will TESTER 3 3 2 5 7" 
be set under a co ntrolled environment with calibrated wind simulation to 
understand movement of garment und e r e ach bench mark speed. TESTER -4 2 7 5 -4" 
Performance Research 
DATA COLLECTION : 1-10 
Thermo 75/15min 85/15min 95/15min Mobility Ml M2 M3 Aero Wl W2 W3 
Lisa NA NA NA Lisa 5 7 8 Lisa NA NA NA 
Aleisha Aleisha Aleisha 
Kaitlin Kaitlin Kaitlin 
Liz Liz Liz 
R Heot Comfort ift8 Strain Garment - Degrees of Movement 
Heart Rate: 175/160 Heart Rate: 175/160 Heart Rate: 175/160 
Elite : Pedestrian : Elite Movement: Pedestrian Movement: 
Weigh Kit before & after Weigh Garment before & after M 1 (Reach Jersey Pocket} Ml (Traffic Arm Signals) Wind Speed Gauge: Wl/W2/W3 
M2 (Remove/Place M2 (Remove/Place 
Water Bottle) Water Bottle ) Motion Capture: Tape Markers on Garment 
Body Temp: Take temp Photo: Sweat Marks MJ (180 e;nd pot Check MJ (180 e;nd Spot Check, Video Analysis: Plot Map Change 
after each interval L/ R, 45/90) L/R, 45/90) 
13.4 Results and Findings
The results and finding from the Elite yielded a trend in the thermoregulation test that, as all
four of the subjects reached 95 degrees on the 3rd 10 minute interval their ability to articulate
where precisely the heat was coming from and how hot it felt compared to the first two sets
increased. Not only did this thread from subject to subject, the scale in which they felt heat also
increased (1 being the least amount of comfort  and 10 being the most/total comfort).  Given
these findings, as well as video and photo documentations, I was able to conclude that the
areas experiencing the most and most articulated perceived heat were the areas extra
garments where being worn and overlapping. This mirrored the Pedestrian test results in
regards to the thermoregulation test, concluding that single layer and constructions would be
key takeaways to consider in my ideation process. As for the Mobility test and the
Aerodynamic test, these findings were not as overwhelmingly sysmetric. The Mobility test
became more informative for the pedestrian kit, as well the aerodynamic test, both of these
tests were documented through motion capture and photography. It is shown below how the
stress and strain of the garment is a hindrance on the rider, mitigation in the ideation phase to
solve for this problem took the main stage.
TIGHT/PULLING 
When reaching for back pocket 
the jersey felt tight and resi stant 
SEAM LINE ARM SLEEVE 
The elbow stretch on the reach 
fe lt good but bunched if not in 
riding position 
GATHERING 
THERMORGULATION 
Ill C) 
C 
Ill 
z a. 
0 a. 
N 0 
~ 
I-
<( .. 
C, 
U.J 
:I: GI 
~ 
Ill 
75 Degrees 85 Degrees 95 Degrees I 
Little to no markings on Sweat in same Zones now spans 
Abdominal Markings, 
the garment across e ntire midsection, upper/ 
Back and Pit marks visible 
Acron the board for oll 4 testers lower bock & pit region 
PEDESTRIAN LAB TEST 
Water Bottle Reach 
When rider performs proper 
With no wind the garment hangs traffic s1gnof1ng the garment 
& obstructs the view of the opens up and could pofent,al 
water bottle cage to the rider become dangerous {not MODEST) 
PEDESTRIAN KIT 
COMFORT SCALE 1-10 (1 Least Comfortable - 10 Totally Comfortable) 
I 75 Degrees I 85 Degrees 95 Degrees Sco,e8•6 Score6•4 IS co,.J.J 
Testers found that the compressed Second round findings, the Everything is hot point of contad 
oreos of the garment generated garment become heavy. Layered where the garment is tight or 
most heat, the Aow • breathable areas and rubbing issue . layer most discomfort 
H ea t /S train 
Gradient : 
- Lea s t 
Mild 
- Most 
13.5 Prototyping and Ideation
GOALS 
EI it e KIT 
IDEATION 
IDEATION 
r, Elite Bibs ,y-~ 
~ f} t f ~~ I it J(tr 
~k 
-:z "..".....:  ......   0 ....  
I I I f 
I \ J \ ( 
I l I! : 
JUU 
FEATURES/BENEFITS 
Elite Jersey 
i------Helmet Comp Seams 
Integrated Hijab 
Aero Seam Line -------
Perforate Venting Logo 
YKK Lightweight Zip 
2 Pocket System ie  - Reflective Logo 
Texture Mesh --- l 
v Thumb Secure Straps 
___. ,,,, _____S tow-away Drop Tail 
FEATURES/BENEFITS 
Elite Bibs 
,___ ___S ecure Over Shoulder Strap 
Mesh Back/Breathable~-------1 
Antimicrobial Meshing~---------< 
,___ ___E xtended Meshing Bib 
4 Density Chamois_ _____ ,___ ____E rgonomic Seam Construction --! 
Ergonomic Knee/Flexion_ ___. .... 
r,>--___A nato mica I Seam Lines 
Texture Mesh/Cooling~- -------1 
,___J--___ Silicon Grip Stays 
PROTOTYPING 
EI i te KIT 
PROCESS PHOTOS 
ELITE KIT 
GOALS 
Pedestrian KIT 
IDEATION 
Pedestrian PANT 
-.:z..: 0  
~ 
(,"~- ' -..~&-
..· ;•l ) 
____ ;i  
r.
,... ... ~,.. ..... .,.;...,,. ... -,.,.r.  
IDEATION 
Pedestrian Top 
g Al,~O~ 
~:.ltl< . 
~~ J~.~:~ JY ~;, ~"~ 
- -==========::!:'t··.'.. "•'"'' - --------
FEATURES/BENEFITS 
Pedestrian Pant 
,.------:;;_;, '--------'Adjustable Waist 
Flat Center Waist 
>----~Pleating/Va lu me 
Zip Venting System 
1-------'Perlarated Gusset 
Articulated Knee 
Bonded Accordion 
>----
Expanded 
Retracting Tightening 
Crap/Chain -s tay Cut _____ Reflective Accent 
___U V Sleeve/Ankle Coverage 
FEATURES/BENEFITS 
Pedestrian Top 
,.. . ,... ......... C ______A djustable Tightening 
-------; ----Off Shoulder Cut Hall-zip Ease of Dress 
Breathable Volume 
Venting w/ 
Cropped Sleeves 
Mesh Backing 
UV Sleeve w/ Thumb __R eflective Accents 
Zip Venting System,.._ ___4 -----------1 
1-----~Prop Tail 
Bonded Seam Const.~ _____ __::~ ---------
PROTOTYPING 
Pedestrian KIT 
PROCESS PHOTOS 
PROTO TESTING PLAN 
Metrics to Measure 
Back to the LAB 
THERMOREGULATION 
Healer• regulate ambient air temperature, gauging 1 less Perceived Heat During Intervals 
with a thermometer (temp /humidity) 
Findings shift info the Green - as Time 
10 minute inlervol1 @ each temp (75/85/95.F) and Heat increase 
Survey Subject 1-10 on heal & location 
Photograph sweat spoh ..... 
MOB I LI TY ELITE TEST PEDESTRIAN TEST <m) EI i I e / Stress & Strain rank 1-3 on th e scaling system (not 
M 1 Bock Pocket Test M 1 Traffic Signal Teat 
a perceived issue} 
M2 Water Bottle Tut M2 Water Bottle Test 
Pede stria n/  Ease of visibility to the Feet, Woter bottle 
MJ 180 81,nd Spot Test MJ 180 81,nd Spot Test 
(0/45/90 degrees) (0/45/90 degrees) and Garment Covers during all movements 
left & right left & right 
AERO DYNA MI ( S Motion Capture through the use of video ~ 
documentat,on and markers placed on the ~ 
PEDESTRIAN k,t Motion Capture and Nodes Show less 
Movement in Gorment 
FINAL PRESENTATION & TECH PACK WITH PACKAGING
HURRIYYA 
HOW CAN WE ... 
How do we improve cycling performance for 
elite and pedestrian female athletes through 
easy of mobility, aerodynamics & 
thermoregulation management , while keeping 
with the traditional Muslim dress code . 
Women 's Suffrage 
The u nder standing how cycling has he ld barr i ers to entry 
f or women, in Muslim culture women remain suppressed 
of bas ic h uman rights, how do we de s ign for cultural 
needs to create a path of entry in to sport? Many issues 
th at crea te th is barrier are roo t ed in the traditional 
garment of the Muslim faith and culture that are either 
legal res triction or systemic norms . 
HURRIYYA 
ATHLETE EXPERIENCE 
CULTURAL DRESS ~ ENVIORNMENT ~ 
HIJAB / ABAYA/ JILBAB Jeddoh , Saudi Arabia 
Midd l e East 
Clothing should not be tight 
or reveal the form of the ANNUAL AVERAGE TEMPS 
body underneath. (RANGE 75 , 100+) 
NOTABLES 
In Jeddah there Is llttle to no cycling 
infrastructure , the rider Is at a higher risk of 
riding on the road with traffic. 
A:s 2013 women have been allowed to ride a 
bike, these laws have changed intros short time. 
TODAY women are free to ride on their own (This 
is stm not a safe activity) 
MUSLIM WOMEN 
WHY DOES THIS MATTER 
What kind of riding do you do? How comfortable do you feel cycling in you clothing choice? Do you feel , afe rid ing in the clothing ? 
40 
~ e Fitness/Exercise ;.;,;i e Ca sual/Social 30 
e Commute 
46% (Work/Shopping) 20 
•
46% 
10 
0 
2 3 4 5 9 10 
least Safe Mo.st Safe 
What do you wear while rid ing? What are the issue, with you option, ? 
• Aboyo/Jilbob e roo Worm (Moi,ture Mgmtl 
e Cycling Specific Clothes e Needs adjustments while riding 
e Athletic Pant, and Top 
e e Obstrudsvisibility Ad,letic Top with cycling kit underneath 
e Mode1t Choices e Restricting 
e Regular clothes if commuting to work 
Hammer ponb/skirt, khimar and niqaab e Finally wearing cycling gear that's comfy and still 
• Cycling jacket over a very long baggy long sleeved made For the ride 
lop e I wish that cycling specific clothing wasn 't so tight. 
and trocbuit bottoms, under my top I wear a cycling It is also hard to find cool long cycling for on 
jersey 
e Joggers and top with hijab ad coot Austrolion summer 
• Jean, 
BASELINE GARMENTS 
FUU BODY COVERAGE 
PearllZUM // UV Arm & Leg Screens SCARFTURBANHIJAB // 
RAPHA // Pro Team BIB MUSLIM SPORT SUIT 
- Hammer Pants 
NIKE// Pro HIJAB 2.0 - Draped Abaya w/ Hijab 
TESTING LAB 
16 ' Storage Container 
F 
CONTROLS EQUIPMENT 
Air Blower Taped Markers 
Heart Rote Heater 
Heat Electric x 2 Insulation Packing Blankets 
Time Elite :175 Propane x 3 Boards x 8 
Air Volume Bench Pedestrian : 160 
Rollers Lights 
BASELINE PRODUCT 
TEST/ NG/ Fl N DIN GS 
ELITE KIT PEDESTRIAN 
Perceived heat became more The garment is restricting , 
articulated as temperatures creating lots of drag, shifting 
climbed and activity /eve/ around during the ride . 
increased after 30 mins 
sweat mapping feedback motion capture feedback 
IDEATION 
THE PROCESS 
SKETCH PATTERN PROTO TEST 
MOOD 
HURRIYYA 
THE COLLECTION 
( 
ELITE KIT 
THE COLLECTION 
VEST JERSEY BIBS 
V EST 
Ny l on w / Reflective Acce n ts 
V i scose B i nding 
3M Refle c t i ve h ea t tr ans f e r vinyl 
Log o 
A rt i culated Ergonomic dar ti ng 
Polyester Pique Knit 
/Light Weight/ Breathable/ 
Polyester Cooling Ribbed 
Aerodynam i c structure 
Tight fit / Secure 
Power Mesh 
4 Panel Hijab 
Accordion Back 
Elastic B i nding 
Pockets 
Helmet Comfort 
Integrated Hijab Bonded Silicon 
Ease of Pressure Breathable / 
Hair Tunnel Secure 
Z i p Pocket Pique Mesh 
Secure Storage Articulation 
BIBS 
Polyester Cooling Ribbed 
Aerodynam i c structure 
Tight f i t/Secure 
Power Mesh 
One Panel Back 
Two front 
Polyester/Spandex 
UV protection / Mobility 
Elastic binding 
Heavy Elastic Reinforced 
shoulder/comfort 
Aero Bottom Leg 
Ergonomic Des i gn Lines / 
Construction 
TOP/BOTTOM 
Po lyester/Cotton Blend 
UV protection 
W/Reflective piping 
3M Black reflective 
heat transfer vinyl 
Moisture Wicking 
Mesh Knit 
Nylon Webbing 
Buckle for Waist 
adjustmen t 
Shock Chord 
Hood Stabi l izat io n 
Venting w / 
Mesh Backing & 
Reflective Pip ing (Back of Kit ONLY) 
Double Cuff with 
Reflective piping 
Black Reflective LOGO 
Quick Zip Vent 
Lined w Reflecti ve Piping 
Shock Chord 
Chain Stay Safe System 
PEDESTRIAN KIT 
REFLECTIVE HIGHLIGHTS 
!HJ (jjJ !& !& 0W  !J 
TEC H PACK 
2021 Co ll ectio n 
FRONT BACK 
Shock Cho rd 
H ood Stabilizat ion 
0
- P- o-,,- . -, -,.-, ,- c- o_tt_o_o_ B_l_e-, d----- --t 0 
~~:erl~~~~:~~ npipi n g 0 0 H eat bonded / We ld ed • HE MS Gore - Tel( Seam Taped (EN ITA E GARMENT ) 
YKK Zippe r #3C • Venting w / Mesh B ack ing & R ef l ective Piping (Back of 
K it O NLY ) 
Double C uff w i th 
Reflective piping 
""' ~ Black AeflecU,e LOGO Quick Z ip Vent 0,0 
Lined w Reflective 0 0,0 0,0 
Piping 
MEASUREMENTS : SA I / 4 • 0 ZJPPER FRONT 18 • 
(}{}MI& I& DW  .t3J 0 HOOD OPENING 22 1/ 4 " 0 2 WAY ZJPPERS L/ R 15 0 FRONT PANEL L/ R 15 I / 4 ' • BACK PANEl UPPER 15 • 
PEDESTRIAN TOP O stEEVE 16 • 0 SACK PAN EL LO W ER 14 • 
TECH FLAT 2021 0 FRONT PANEL LOWER II • O tOGO H 4 11 2 · w 5 • 
-~FRONT  SIDE BACK ::;:,, !, '\ 0 N y lon Webbing Buckle for Waist Waits Strap Adjustment 
Mechanism 
0 
N y lon Webbing 
Built In to the 
Pleat 
Qu ick Zip Vent 
lined w Reflective 
P iping 0 
Ve n ting w/ 
Mesh Back ing & 
Reflecti ve Piping 
0 
0 
Shock Cho rd Heat bonded / Welded 
Chain Stay Safe HEMS 
System 0 Gore - Tex Seam Tap ed 
~ 
MEASUREMENTS : SA I /4 • O sHOCK CHORD 22 · 
(}{} [jj) (& (& 0" Jj 0 WA/ST PLEAT TO PLEAT B • 0 WESS/NG FRONT 2 " SACK 9 I / 2 • 
O s1DE ZIPPER 8 . O sACK OF KNEE VENT 2 . 
PEDESTRIAN BOTTOM 0 DtM VENT W 2 " L 7 I /2 " O sAcK PANT DROP 2 I /2" 
TECH FLAT 2021 0 DARTS TOP 4 1/ 2 " BOTTOM 4 " 
FRONT BACK 
N y lon w / Reflect ive Accents 
0 
Viscose B inding 
0 
o -
----0 3M Reflecti ve heat transfer vin y l Logo 
0 YKK Z ipper #JC 
~ Mtlc,lated E,gooomlc dm log 
0 
MEASUREMENTS : SA 1/4 " 0 DART SACK 2 l / 4 • 
(}{} [jj) (&(& owJ j 0 FRONT PANEL 22 1/4 " f> ZIPPER 20 I / 4 • 0 BACK PANEL 27 " 
ELITE VEST 10 DART FRONT 2 I / 2 • 
TECH FLAT 2021 Collection 0 LOGO CS W I l /2 " H 7 I /2 • • DART SACK LOWER 4 • 
FRONT BACK 
4 Panel H ljab 
Elastic Bi nding 
Helmet Com fort 
Polyester P ique Knit 
/ light Weight/ Breathable / 
Polyester Coo l ing R ibbed 
Aerodynam ic structu r e 
Tight fit/Secure 
0 
Power Mesh Secure 
MEASUREMENTS: SA J/4 " A WI DTH OF HOOD -BACK 3 5 / 8 • 
(}{} (1)) (& (& owJ J . HOOD OPENING I 9 " 0 PO CK ET DIM W 14 " H 6 " 
0 ZIPPER 22 I / 4 • • SfllCON / flASTIC 12 · 
ELITE JERSEY 0 SlffVE 24 • 0 SIDE ZIPPER 5 I / 2 " 
TECH HAT 2021 0 FRONT PANfl 22 5 / 8 • 0 lO GO W3 / 4 " H3 / 2 " 
FRONT BACK 
0 
Elastic binding 
Heavy Elastic Re i nfo r ced 
Power Mes h 0 s hou Ide r/comfort 
One Panel Back 
Two front 
Polyester / Spandex e 
UV protect io n/ Mobility 
• 
--/ Chamois Pad 
4 l ayer dens ity 
Female Elle Alder 
Poly es t er Cooling R i bbed 
Aerodynamic s tr uc t ure Aero B ottom L eg 
Tight flt/Secur e 0 Ergonomic Des i gn Lines / Construction 
MEASUREMENTS: SA I / 4 • 0 I PART CONSTRUCTION 
[}{) (ljJ ffJ ffJ DW  IJ 0 ELASTIC BAND 6 " 0 RISE TO M ESH CB 12 " 0 2 PART CONSTRUCTION TOP 10 " BOTTOM C 3 5 / B • 0 CHAMOIS DIM 6 X 2 X 6 " 
ELITE BIBS 0 WAIST TO KNEE 16 " 0 BACK OF KNEE s · 
TECH FLAT 2021 0 ANKlE TO KNEE 1 2 · 0 ANKlE O PENING 10 · 
0 
MEASUREMENTS : 
[}{) (ljJ [fJ [fJ owI J BAG DIM W 14 " H 19 " 0 tOGO W 2 " H 10 ,.. 
PACKAGING 0 tOGO W l " HSl / 2 " 
TECH FLAT 2021 HANGTAG DIM W2 1/ 2 " H4 " 
14.0 Project Alignment to Design Strengths
Reflecting back on the problem to solve for; understanding how cycling has held barriers to
entry for women, in Muslim culture women remain suppressed of basic human rights, how do
we design for cultural needs to create a path of entry into sport. Many issues that create this
barrier are rooted in traditional garment of the Muslim faith and culture that are either legally
restriction or systemic norms. Is the link between social equity and sport, in the lane of cycling
as the vehicle to drive the change.
The intersection of being a designer for sport blurs the line between social needs, functional
needs & science. With this study of Mulism Women in cycling two tracks are explored giving
opportunity to reach a larger audience of underserved peoples and facilitate a platform for
informed design, opening doors to the many joys and freedoms that cycling can bring.
14.1 Strength Support Innovation
CORE STRENGTH 
2 3 
Relator LEARNER Activator 
Close relationships with others. They People exceptionally talented in the learner Con make things happen by turning 
thoughts into action . They want to do 
find deep satisfaction in working hard theme have a great desire to learn and want to things now, rather than simply talk 
with friends to achieve a goal. continuously improve. The rotess of learning, about them. 
rather than the autcame, excites them. 
4 
Achiever Self Assurance 
Work hard and possess a great deal Feel confident in their ability to toke 
of stamina. They to ke immense risks and manage their own lives. They 
satisfaction in being busy and have on inner compass that gives them 
productive . certainty in their decisions. 
Considering the core strengths listed above, based on the Strengthsfinder test, this exploration
of the Muslin and Persian culture seem to be quite fitting. The core strength is, Learner, given
the entry of unknown waters open to exploring and digesting a wealth of multi faceted layers of
culture and product information. The ability to relate will be one of the most crucial strengths
allowing/ making space to understand new cultural practices and etiquettes. Given the many
demands and hurdles sourcing information halfway across the world in another language can
create, the activator will find a way to stay patient, while continuing to push the design process.
As an innovator the strengths that are harnessed here make for a dynamic balanced detail
oriented producer. Conducting a larger body of work that allows for more product testing and
user insight will be the champion of this line. Over the term the role that has the best fit would
be one that is in a director role or lead design role, being able to manage others with
democracy and out the overtime to see the project through. The ability to network, task
manage, see the plan step by step and understand all the moving pieces.
14.2 Project Support Career
In the women's cycling world there has been a call to arm for more females on the design team
to create products for women. With each year we see more women stepping in to lead and
director roles at major cycling companies to guide the women's line, this is strikingly fitting. The
body of work here is not only root in women's liberation but also in the field of cycling. The
future of womens cycling is vastly growing and still young, opening doors for forward thinking
designers, the time is now to start to think globally and socially with women in mind, bridging
the gaps between gender and socioeconomic gaps.
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