spirited | unParpocleosgse btoico |k purposeful Capstone Project: Final Presentation CapSsptroinnge 2P0r2o0ject University of Oregon, MS Sports Product Design Chrissy Bettencourt SPD 688: innovative project Strategy development studio Winter 2020 (Bauer, 2019) ANY BODY Footwear for the plus-size female runner Chrissy Bettencourt Capstone Final Paper PART 1 Background research PROJECT OVERVIEW “Inclusivity is the future in fashion. You can either get on board or fade into irrelevance.” - Nicolette Mason (2019), Glamour Magazine. “I think that people are really having trouble grappling with the idea that fit comes in many forms and that people can still participate in athletics no matter what kind of body they have. I want to continue sticking my big ass into places where people think I don’t belong. That has been the nature of my life—I’m going to do it and I’m going to do it proudly.” - Mirna Valerio, Ultrarunner (Khan, 2018). Size inclusivity has jumped to the forefront of the apparel industry over the past few years. Women are tired of not being able to find clothing that fits, tired of not seeing people who look like themselves in media and advertising, and tired of being fat-shamed either directly or through microaggressions on a daily basis. Led by a group of outspoken plus-size bloggers, a community has formed that is challenging the fashion industry (Meltzer, 2012). Today, it is common to see unretouched plus- sized models and women with cellulite in Instagram ads, with new startup brands like Outdoor Voices leading the way in Fig. 1 Outdoor Voices (2018) frequently promoting body positive advertising (Figure 1). uses plus size women in their advertising. 1 Oftentimes, however, the effort to include plus-size women is superficial. Several activewear companies, such as Lululemon, have tried to capitalize on the body positivity movement by featuring plus-size models, while not actually providing plus-sized clothing (Peters, 2018). Furthermore, many activewear brands do not carry sizes beyond size 14, partly due to the common misconception that larger women do not exercise (Nittle, 2018). If they are offered at all, plus-size sections are often hidden in a dark, back corner, next to the maternity section, or “online-only” (Howland, 2019). A study by Christel, O’Donnell, and Bradley (2016) found that 37% of women wear men’s clothing for exercise because they are unable to find products that better accommodate their needs, and 81% feel they have no choice over what to wear for exercise because it is the only thing they can find that fits. In 2017, Nike launched a plus-size collection, including a series of plus-sized mannequins, as seen in Figure 2 (Taylor, 2019b). The mannequins helped bring awareness to Nike’s plus-size product line, resulting in a 387% growth in searches for “Nike” and “plus size” and a 200% increase in sales of the featured tights for one online retailer (Taylor, 2019b). Despite one reporter’s claim that “[t]he obese Nike athlete is just another lie” (Gold, 2019), the response to the mannequins was overwhelmingly positive. Critics of Gold’s article rightly pointed out the paradox of Fig. 2 Nike launched a line of plus-size mannequins in its London flagship store (Taylor, 2019b). 2 telling people to exercise and lose weight while criticizing Nike for advertising athletic clothes to plus-sized women (Taylor, 2019a). Many athletes stepped up to point out the amazing things they have done as plus-sized women (Figure 3). Plus-size women do exercise, and they need clothing to wear when they do. Women feel empowered and inspired knowing that Nike supports them and their plus-sized bodies. A study by Lou Watkins, Ebbeck, and Levy (2014) shows that having appropriate and desired clothing for exercising promotes physical activity. It is clear that when brands invest in the plus-size market, the consumer will respond. One Woman Walks Europe LJ Gray @WomanWalksWales @illustratedlaw Regards the lat shaming articles about @Nike's decision to Fat athletes exist, we are strongwomen, powerlifters, wrestlers show a plus size mannequin in sports wear : this is my plus size and runners. Fat athletes exist, I know this because I am one body. I'm too lat to be labelled by sports media as athletic or aspirational. This plus size body is 1800 miles into a 5000 mile and I'm in great company. walk. 0 1,163 8:32 AM - Jun 10, 2019 CD 0 215 5:35AM • Jun 10, 2019 · Scotland, Untted Kingdom (D Q 180 people are talking about this > 0 31 people are talking about this > Fig. 3 Twitter responses to Tanya Gold’s article in The Telegraph (Taylor, 2019a). While there is still a lot of work to be done to revolutionize the activewear industry, steps are being made in the right direction to ensure that plus-sized women are included. However, the same needs are not being met for plus-sized women when it comes to their footwear. The struggles that plus-sized women have finding clothes also continues into their footwear. Plus-sized ultrarunner Mirna Valerio (2016) describes being laughed at by a sales associate when she tried to buy her first pair of running shoes, an experience she describes as, 3 “one of many daily indignities that I would experience as a runner because I didn't fit into that young man's perception of runner.” Mirna (Figure 4) is an accomplished ultrarunner who started running in 2008 after a health scare and has not looked back since (Pattee, 2019). She has been told by doctors that she is obese and needs to exercise, but her body has carried her through races up to 120 miles (Mack, 2019). Mirna started her blog Fat Girl Running in 2012, and from there, she has continued to build a community of people dedicated to promoting body positivity and diverse representations of athletes (Khan, 2018). Her Facebook community, also called FATGIRLRUNNING, has over 15,000 members (FATGIRLRUNNING, 2018). Women often post success stories about their first races or ask for advice about gear or dealing with being “DFL”, or “dead fucking last” in a race (FATGIRLRUNNING, 2018). Fig. 4 Ultrarunner Mirna Valerio (Garmin, 2019). 4 The challenges plus-size women have finding footwear go beyond snickering store employees. Carrying more weight results in a greater amount of stress on the bones and skin of the feet (Spectrum Foot Clinics, 2016). The greater stress can also physically alter the feet overtime, resulting in fallen arches and often excessive pronation (Spectrum Foot Clinics, 2016). The excess weight stretches out the connective tissues in the foot, wears down the fat pads that cushion the foot, and may cause plantar fasciitis or heel pain (Boldt, n.d.). A study by Dufour et al. (2017) shows that women with a higher BMI are more likely to have foot pain. Dufour et al. concludes that this association is likely due to a combination of mechanical reasons—flat feet, less range of motion, and greater forces on the foot—and metabolic reasons related to tissue composition. When plus-size women wear shoes designed for straight-sized women, the unique concerns about their feet are not addressed. Another concern for plus-size women when buying footwear is fit. Plus- Angle parameters: a - foot angle size women’s feet are typically flatter and G ~ - ha1lux angle y - digitus minimus angle fuller. A study by Tománková et al. (2015), F 6 - heel angle "idth parameters: found that obesity affects all aspects of D-E - heel width direct the foot—heel, longitudinal arch, and F-G- forefoot width direct (greatest width) forefoot—not just a generic width. E B-1 - midfoot width Length parameters: However, the only fit variation currently A-B - heel length found in running footwear is wider width. A-C - foot length While wide shoes may work for some, it Fig 5. Measured foot parameters used to determine the impact of obesity on foot morphology (Tománková et al., 2015). only goes so far. 5 The goal of this project is to design road and trail running shoes for plus-size women. The three main focus points for the project will be on fit, underfoot cushioning, and aesthetic appearance. The research will begin with a thorough analysis of plus-size foot scans. The scans will be measured at various cross-sections to collect data about a variety of foot sizes and shapes. Potential areas to explore in regard to the foot scans are proportions and girth of the foot, location of the malleolus, and arch structure. The data will then be compared to that of a medium width shoe last to determine the common problem areas using data comparison and visual inspection of foot scan and last overlays. One of the 3D foot scans will then be used to design a new last. Once a new last has been created, special design considerations will be made to create a shoe that is specifically tuned to a plus-size foot for underfoot cushioning and upper design. Cushioning will be designed considering the unique needs of a woman who carries more weight than a straight-sized woman. Typically, no consideration is taken into the way the shoe grades when designing a wide shoe. Furthermore, when creating a more anatomical last, proportions are usually skewed such that the shoe no longer looks ideal when compared to traditionally designed shoes. This project will attempt to create a shoe for the wider, flatter foot of a plus-size runner that is aesthetically pleasing. The goal is to design a road shoe and a trail shoe that plus-size women want to wear—shoes that women ask for when they look for running shoes, and not just the only thing that fits. Fig 6. Marathon runner and activist Latoya Shauntay Snell (Snell, 2019). 6 PRODUCT CLASSIFICATION Footwear, Running SPORT HISTORY The first marathon was contested in 1896 at the first modern Olympic games, loosely inspired by the dramatic and fatal run of a Greek messenger from Marathon to Athens (Nix, 2018). While the original Olympic marathons were closer to 25 miles, the distance was lengthened in 1908 to allow the British royal family to watch the start of the London Olympics (Nix, 2018). In 1921, the marathon distance was then standardized at this longer distance, 26.2 miles, the distance that is still run in marathons today (Nix, 2018). The first official women’s marathon was completed by Violet Percy in London in 1926, finishing in 3:40:22 (Douglas & Fuehrer, 2014). In 1928, women were allowed to compete in the Olympic Games for the first time but were then banned from competing in any races longer than 200 meters due to false accounts of women collapsing after the 800-meter race (Carroll, 2019). After a 32-year ban, women were finally allowed to run the 800 and four other shorter running events at the 1960 Olympics in Rome (Sebor, n.d.). In 1967, Kathrine Switzer was the first woman to run the Boston Marathon after registering under the pseudonym K.V. Switzer (Sebor, n.d.). As seen in Figure 7, Race official Jock Fig. 7 Kathrine Switzer is the first woman to run the Boston Marathon in 1967 (Connell, 1967). 7 Semple noticed her and tried to forcibly remove her from the race (Collins, 1967). Women were officially allowed to enter the Boston Marathon in 1972 (Scholtz, 2017). After decades of false narratives about the negative affect of long distance running on a woman’s body, a 1980 study by American College of Sports Medicine found that there is no medical reason that women should be prohibited from running marathons, and four years later the women’s Olympic marathon was introduced (Keklak, 2018). In 1984, Joan Benoit won the gold medal for the inaugural women’s marathon at the Los Angeles Olympics (Sebor, n.d.). Women’s running experienced a boom in the early ‘90s, sparked by Oprah Winfrey’s running of the Marine Corps Marathon in 1994 (Pattillo, Pilkingston, and Polachek, 2014). Today, 45 percent of marathon runners in the US are women, more than any other country in the world (Brar, 2019). ENVIRONMENT The environment is separated into two categories: road and trail. While many runners choose to run on the treadmill or track, this project will focus on road, for a walk/run half marathon shoe, and trail, for a trail running/hiking shoe. Road will consist of asphalt and concrete. Trail will mean packed or loose dirt, mud, roots, rocks, leaves, gravel, and grass. While the temperature in the US may range from below freezing to over 100 degrees, this project will focus on moderate temperatures, 40-70 degrees, since this is the range at which most runners prefer to run. Similarly, the focus will be on clear, dry days rather than wind, rain, sleet, snow, or ice. Since the goal for this project is to empower more plus-size women to run, the focus is on ideal running conditions. 8 RULES Rules related to women’s recreational running include obeying city, state, and federal laws, especially traffic laws when running in the street (New York Road Runners, n.d.). Individual races may set their own rules, or they may be governed by a larger organizing body such as USATF. Runners must follow the designated race course on foot without any outside assistance, follow all directions from race officials, behave in a sportsmanlike manner, and display an official race entry number or bib (New York Road Runners, n.d.). Many races have course time limits and failing to finish within a certain time may mean disqualification from official race results or potentially removal from the course. SUCCESS Success in women’s recreational running comes in many different forms. A woman’s goal for running may come in the form of one of three categories: time-based, distance-based, or lifestyle-based. Time-based goals may be to set a personal record, or PR, meaning to run a race faster than she ever has before. Other time-based goals include breaking a certain barrier, such as breaking 5 hours in the marathon, or running a sub-30-minute 5K. Distance-based goals may include running at least a mile every day or finishing a 5K or marathon. Lifestyle-based goals may include wanting to stay active and healthy, enjoy the outdoors, lose weight, or possibly just have fun. ATHLETE EXPERIENCE NEEDS Athletes must run regularly to safely participate in recreational road or trail races. They must be healthy and able to comfortably walk and/or run the race distance they are aiming to 9 run. One exception would be for women training to run a marathon. Many novice marathon runners will not have run the full 26.2 miles prior to the race itself. Their longest run prior to the race may be 18 to 20 miles. ATHLETE DEMOGRAPHIC The athlete is a plus-size woman, 30-60 years old, living in the US. She may have just started running regularly or would like to start. Her motivation is to stay active and live a healthy lifestyle, not necessarily lose weight. She runs with friends, a few miles per week at first, and is training to run her first half marathon. MARKET SIZE 65% of women in the US wear plus-size clothing, meaning size 14 or above (Christel et al., 2016). The average woman in the US weighs 170.6 pounds and is 5 feet 3 inches tall, or a BMI of 29.6, which is just under the category “Obese”, classified as a BMI of 30 or over (Strapagiel, 2018). In the US, nearly 60 million people participated in running or jogging in 2017, about 24 percent of whom reported doing so for exercise (Gough, 2018). About 59% of participants in road races in the US are women (Shortsleeve, 2018). The potential market size for plus-size women’s footwear is approximately 41 million people, estimated as 65% of the 64 million women in the US age 20-50 years old (US Census Bureau, 2019, as cited by Duffin, 2019). While all of these women may not be runners or may not be interested in running, they are still part of the demographic that could benefit from footwear designed for their needs. Based on the percentage of people in the US who run or jog, 10 it can be deduced that 22% of these plus-size women are potential runners, or approximately 9 million people (Kunst, 2019). BIOMECHANICAL NEEDS The biomechanical and physiological concerns for runners include the gait cycle, running form, and running economy. The running gait cycle can be categorized into two phases: the stance phase, when the runner’s feet are in contact with the ground, and the swing phase, when the runner’s feet are not on the ground (Casanova, 2018). Figure 8 shows an example of the full gait cycle. Casanova describes these phases as being made up of sub-phases: braking, when one foot makes initial contact with the ground, and the knee and ankle flex to absorb impact; mid stance, when the runner’s leg is under their hips; and propulsion, when the runner’s hips extend forward and drive the runner forward until the leg makes contact with the ground to begin the cycle again. While there is much discussion in the running community about running with perfect form, coaches suggest that the most efficient gait pattern may look different for everyone (Casanova, 2018). Exercise physiologist and running coach Janet Hamilton argues that, “the overall goal is to get the foot on the ground in such a way that the Running Gait Impact Drive Recovery Leap Stance = 40% Double Swing = 60% Double Float Float Absorbtion Propulsion Initial Swing Terminal Swing Initial Contact Mid Stance Toe Off Mid Swing Initial Contact Fig. 8 The running gait cycle, composed of the stance and swing phases (“The run centre: the 4-point run analysis”, 2016). 11 whole kinetic chain (of your foot and leg) can successfully absorb impact and adapt to any uneven terrain and then transition successfully to a position where it can stabilize and propel you forward” (Casanova, 2018). Ground contact is also an important aspect of the biomechanics of running. Ground reaction force (GRF) is the force exerted on a body as a result of coming in contact with the ground (Richards, 2013). A study by Cavanagh and LaFortune (1980, as cited in Kirby, 2017) found that vertical GRF was approximately 2.8 times body weight, and the shape of the GRF varied depending on the runner’s strike pattern. For example, the average woman in the US 5 feet 3 inches tall and weighs 170.6 pounds would have a vGRF of approximately 477 pounds, or 2120 Newtons. In comparison, a woman who is 5 feet 3 inches tall and weighs 130 pounds, a healthy BMI, would have a vGRF of approximately 364 pounds, or 1620 Newtons. To illustrate the ground reaction force, Figure 9 shows a simplified free body diagram of running. F=mg W=mg W=weight Placed at the center of mass/gravity Qr Fig. 9 A free body diagram of running, where Fg is the ground reaction force (Pomeroy, 2019). 12 A physiological concern for runners in relation to footwear is running economy. Running economy is defined as the oxygen uptake needed to run at a given velocity (Bassett and Howley, 2000). An important factor related to running economy and energy expenditure is the weight of running shoes. Oxygen consumption increases by 1 percent for every 100g of added weight (Kirby, 2017). Increased oxygen consumption means that it requires more oxygen and more energy, to run at the same velocity, and so running economy is decreased (Kirby, 2018). COMPETITOR ANALYSIS Many running shoes are available for women with varying price points and features. Below is a selected list of road and trail running shoes for women that have been identified as valid options for plus-size women. These shoes range in price from $120 to $160. While there are many other options to choose from, this list presents an overview of the options available and selected technologies that may be beneficial to the plus-size athlete. Solereview (2019b) offers a guide for plus-size female runners which encourages athletes to look for a stable, durable midsole that is not too soft and a secure upper fit. Solerview cautions plus-size runners to avoid pillowy soft shoes, such as the Hoka One One Clifton 6, or shoes with biased midsoles, where the lateral side of the midsole is softer than the medial side to discourage pronation, such as the ASICS Gel-Kayano 26. However, these shoes are still included in this list as some plus-sized runners have reported success with these shoes because of their wide width options, extra support, and stability. Using the Solereview guide, footwear reviews from plus-size athlete Mirna Valerio’s “Let’s Talk Running Shoes” (2016), the “Best Trail-Running Shoes for Women – in 2019” guide (Paige, 2019), and results from a footwear survey of the FATGIRLRUNNING Facebook group, the following shoes were identified as appropriate choices 13 for plus-size runners for a variety of characteristics, such as wide widths available, anatomical women’s-specific fit, and a stable base that is not too soft. ROAD adidas Solar Drive 19 MSRP: $120 Heel-to-toe drop: 10mm Wide: No Features and Benefits: - Boost and Energy Rail midsole for guided, responsive cushioning - Breathable air mesh upper to keep feet cool with reinforced zones for targeted support - Adiwear outsole for durable traction - Solar Propulsion Rail guides the foot through the gait cycle (Adidas, n.d.) ASICS Gel-Kayano 26 (D) MSRP: $160 Heel-to-toe drop: Not reported Wide: Yes Features and Benefits: - Spevafoam 45 for a soft feel and improved comfort - Flytefoam Propel midsole for lightweight cushioning for a lightweight, bouncy feel - AHAR outsole for abrasion resistance and durability - Duomax dual density midsole for enhanced support and stability - Gel technology for shock absorption - Guidance Trusstic system to enhance the natural gait cycle (Asics, n.d.) Brooks Ghost 12 MSRP: $130 Heel-to-toe drop: 12mm Wide: Yes Features and Benefits: - BioMoGo DNA and DNA LOFT for a soft, responsive feel - Segmented Crash Pad zones for a smooth transition from heel to toe. - Flex grooves for forefoot flexibility - 3D Fit Print technology for a plush, secure fit around the foot - Engineered double jacquard mesh for breathability, flexibility, structure (Brooks, n.d.) 14 Hoka One One Clifton 6 MSRP: $130 Heel-to-toe drop: 5mm Wide: Yes Features and Benefits: - Full compression EVA midsole for cushioning - Early stage Meta-Rocker and moderate heel bevel for a smooth ride and transition - High-abrasion rubber zones to reduce weight - Reinforced eyestay for added durability (Hoka One One, n.d.-b) Mizuno Wave Rider 23 MSRP: $120 Heel-to-toe drop: 12mm Wide: No Features and Benefits: - Engineered mesh upper for durability and breathability - U4ic midsole for lightweight, responsive durable cushioning - U4icX strobel lasting board for added underfoot cushioning - X10 carbon rubber outsole for durable traction (Mizuno, n.d.) New Balance 880v9 MSRP: $124.99 Heel-to-toe drop: 10mm Wide: Yes Features and Benefits: - Engineered mesh upper for a comfortable, breathable fit - Durable, responsive cushioning (New Balance, n.d.) Nike Epic React Flyknit 2 MSRP: $150 Heel-to-toe drop: 9mm Wide: No Features and Benefits: - Flyknit constructed upper for a breathable, minimal, supportive fit that conforms to and stretches with the foot - React foam for a lightweight, soft, springy cushioning - Heel molding for improved foot stability (Nike, n.d.-b) 15 Saucony Triumph 17 Wide MSRP: $150 Heel-to-toe drop: 8mm - Wide: Yes - Features and Benefits: -- - PWRRUN+ for springy, responsive underfoot feel - FORMFIT technology for a secure fit that adapts to the shape and motion of the foot - Breathable mesh upper to keep feet cool (Saucony, n.d.-b) TRAIL Altra Lone Peak 4.5 MSRP: $120 Heel-to-toe drop: 0mm Wide: No Features and Benefits: - Zero-drop, balanced cushioning encourages proper, low-impact form - Footshape toe box allows toes to spread out naturally - Maxtrac rubber with Trailclaw canted lugs are positioned strategically under the metatarsals to provide traction at toe off - A-Bound with Stoneguard Dual-layer EVA midsole for lightweight rock protection and cushioning - Air mesh upper is durable and quick drying (Altra, n.d.) Columbia Caldorado III MSRP: $120 Heel-to-toe drop: 8mm Wide: Yes Features and Benefits: - FluidFoam midsole for a cushioning, flexibility, and support - Seamless, abrasion-resistant upper with a reinforced toe cap for comfort and protection - TrailShield protection plate with forefoot flex grooves for flexible protection - Full length rubber outsole with 4mm multi-directional lugs for traction on varied terrain (Columbia, n.d.) 16 Hoka One One Challenger ATR 5 MSRP: $130 Heel-to-toe drop: 5mm Wide: Yes Features and Benefits: - Dual-layer mesh upper with a TPU toe reinforcement for support, durability, and breathability - Early stage Meta-Rocker for a smooth ride - CMEVA foam midsole for lightweight, stable impact absorption - 4mm lugs for all-terrain traction (Hoka One One, n.d.-a) Merrell Agility Peak Flex 3 MSRP: $130 Heel-to-toe drop: 6mm Wide: No Features and Benefits: - EVA foam midsole with FLEXconnect dual-directional flex-grooves for enhanced ground connection, responsive comfort, and energy return - Rock plate for underfoot protection - Vibram Megagrip for traction - Jacquard upper with TPU film heel counter for security (Merrell, n.d.) Nike Air Zoom Pegasus 36 Trail MSRP: $130 Heel-to-toe drop: Not reported Wide: No Features and Benefits: - Perforated mesh upper for breathability - Zoom Air units in heel and forefoot and Cushlon foam midsole for supportive cushioning - Outsole lugs for traction on road and trail - Wider forefoot for a roomier fit (Nike, n.d.-a) 17 ·~1 '.• - l ;f Salomon Sense Ride 2 MSRP: $120 Heel-to-toe drop: 8mm Wide: No Features and Benefits: - Contagrip MA outsole for durable traction on wet, dry, loose surfaces - Vibe midsole combines EnergyCell and Opal technologies reduces vibrations and load to deliver a responsive ride - 3D open mesh welded upper for a breathable, smooth fit - SensiFit cradles the foot from midsole to lacing for a secure fit - Quicklace lacing system for one-pull tightening (Salomon, n.d.) Saucony Peregrine 10 Wide MSRP: $120 Heel-to-toe drop: 8mm Wide: Yes Features and Benefits: - PWRRUN midsole for responsive yet protective cushioning - PWRTRAC outsole for grip and traction on multiple surfaces - Trail-specific FORMFIT for secure fit (Saucony, n.d.-a) Topo Athletic Ultraventure MSRP: $130 Heel-to-toe drop: 5mm Wide: No Features and Benefits: - Anatomical toe box allows toes to spread naturally - Vibram XS Trek outsole for durable grip and traction - Three-piece, multi-density EVA midsole for lightweight stability - Ortholite footbed for anti-microbial underfoot comfort - Drainage gills for water release and quick drying - Engineered mesh upper for breathability and abrasion-resistance (Topo Athletic, n.d.) SWOT ANALYSIS On the following four pages is a SWOT analysis of the current competitor market landscape for women’s road and trail shoes. This information was gathered from customer reviews on product websites and the Solereview (2019b) guide for plus-size runners. 18 ROAD Product Strengths Weaknesses Opportunities Threats adidas Solar Lower volume midsole No wide widths Build on artist Not known for Drive 19 has a firmer feel Stiff bottom collaborations focus on fit or (Solereview, 2019b) Slightly narrow fit and athleisure extended sizing Breathable air mesh (Adidas, n.d.) focus upper with targeted Overpriced zones for support Stiff eyelet panel (Adidas, n.d.) Bad outsole design Spacious upper (Solereview, 2018) (Solereview, 2018) ASICS Gel- Comes in wide Biased midsole may Known for Customers may Kayano 26 (D) Good for low to normal not work as intended focusing on think they are too arches and for neutral for plus-size runners extended sizes aggressive or or overpronation (Solereview, 2019b) and clunky Good support and Short in the heel with overpronation. stability too much padding, Could expand on Works well with may cause heel pronation with a custom orthotics (Asics, slipping (Asics, n.d.) focus on plus- n.d.) Heavy size bodies Sturdy Not engaging to run in Good for flat feet (Solereview, 2019e) (Valerio, 2016) Brooks Ghost Comes in wide Heavy Loyal customers, Design changes 12 Supportive, secure Not very responsive use word of from model to (Brooks, n.d.) (Solereview, 2019d) mouth to expand model upset the Plush upper Runs small/narrow customer base loyal fan base Cushioned, smooth ride Breaks down easily Focus on upper Good traction Not breathable and underfoot (Solereview, 2019d) (Brooks, n.d.) comfort Hoka One One Comes in wide Too soft (Solereview, Adapt cushioning Maximal Clifton 6 Lightweight (Hoka One 2019b) story to focus on cushioning may be One, n.d.-b) Poor arch support plus-size a passing fad Wears out easily consumer Upper causes blisters Determine how and rubbing on foot to keep the (Hoka One One, n.d.-b) cushy feeling without packing out so easily 19 Mizuno Wave Firm and stable No wide widths Focus on stable Design changes Rider 23 (Solereview, 2019b) Narrow toe box cushioning from model to Comfortable upper (Mizuno, n.d.) model upset the Lightweight Clunky outsole loyal fan base (Mizuno, n.d.) Stitched logos Flared midsole offers (Solereview, 2019c) good stability Plush insole (Solereview, 2019c) New Balance Comes in wide and Heavy Capitalize on Design changes 880v9 extra-wide Width varies between loyal wide and from model to Lightweight shoes, even of the extra-wide model upset the Breathable upper same size customers loyal fan base Wide toe box (New Balance, n.d.) New Balance Good cushioning and customers know support without that they focus sacrificing ground feel on fit and Stable extended sizes (New Balance, n.d.) Nike Epic React Dense cushioning No wide widths (Nike, Convert plus-size Aesthetic of a Flyknit 2 Secure Flyknit upper n.d.-b) apparel wide foot does with stabilizing heel Midsole stiffens in customers. not fit with the Lightweight freezing temperatures Capitalize on typical Nike “fast” Flared forefoot offers Expensive (Solereview, brand loyalty silhouette look greater support 2019a) and NSW (Solereview, 2019b) customers Spongy comfortable cushioning Comfortable upper (Nike, n.d.-b) Saucony Comfortable on feet all Not as light as other Focus on stable Design changes Triumph 17 day (Saucony, n.d.-b) shoes cushioning from model to Wide Responsive cushioning, Stiff in the forefoot model upset the smooth ride (Langelier, 2019) loyal fan base Durable outsole Plush upper (Solereview, 2019b) 20 TRAIL Product Strengths Weaknesses Opportunities Threats Altra Lone Peak Anatomical shape is No wide widths (Altra, Capitalize on Zero-drop can be 4.5 good for wide feet n.d.) anatomical fit hard to adapt to. Zero-drop is good for Not a lot of cushioning, story and expand Small, niche brand barefoot runners not good for sensitive customer base may be hard to Good for lightweight feet (Paige, 2019) into plus-size discover for day treks or off-road market women just runs (Paige, 2019) getting into running Columbia Comes in wide Not very cushioned Work on Customer base is Caldorado III Lightweight (Columbia, n.d.) cushioning to loyal, but non- Good on road and trail give a plusher runners may not (Columbia, n.d.) feel. Focus on look here for their Abrasion-resistant hike/run needs upper Reinforced toe cap protects without adding bulk Good stability and support Comes in a waterproof version for wet weather Good for hiking and running (Paige, 2019) Hoka One One Comes in wide (Hoka Poor arch Adapt cushioning Maximal Challenger ATR One One, n.d.-a) support/stability story to focus on cushioning may be 5 Lots of protection from Wears out easily plus-size a passing fad the overly cushioned (Hoka One One, n.d.-a) consumer midsole Runs large (Paige, Determine how Breathable upper 2019) to keep the Easy transition from cushy feeling road to trail without packing Extended toe cap out so easily protects toes (Paige, 2019) Merrell Agility Good for rugged terrain No wide widths Focus on Customer base is Peak Flex 3 Feels good on asphalt (Merrell, n.d.) run/hike and loyal, but non- too On the heavier side more technical runners may not Soft yet agile terrain 21 Comfortable lacing Not a lot of toe look here for their system protection (Dixon, needs Responsive ground feel 2019) (Dixon, 2019) Nike Air Zoom Great colors No wide widths Convert plus-size Aesthetic of a Pegasus 36 Comfortable and Get wet very easily apparel wide foot does Trail lightweight (Nike, n.d.-a) customers. not fit with the Good on varied terrain Traction is not great Capitalize on typical Nike “fast” and roads No toe protection Not brand loyalty silhouette look Uphill grip and forefoot very durable and NSW cushioning for downhill Not good for technical customers (Nike, n.d.-a) terrain Good for long, slow Not very stable training runs (Howard, n.d.) Very flexible (Howard, n.d.) Salomon Sense Lightweight with No wide widths Focus on upper Customer base is Rise 2 enough cushioning (Salomon, n.d.) fit and comfort loyal, but non- Quick-laces do not Runs narrow (Paige, runners may not come undone 2019) look here for their Breathable needs Good for ultras (Paige, 2019) Saucony Energetic and Tread is too aggressive Focus on Design changes Peregrine 10 protective feeling (Metzler, 2020) underfoot from model to Wide underfoot cushioning model upset the Upper cradles the foot loyal fan base for a secure fit (Metzler, 2020) Topo Athletic Extra-wide toe box Doesn’t come in wide Capitalize on Small, niche brand Ultraventure Still snug enough to (Topo Athletic, n.d.) anatomical fit may be hard to provide support while Not good for rocky story and expand discover for providing ample room terrain (Paige, 2019) customer base women just for toes Upper stretches too into plus-size getting into Good on slick terrain much so foot slides market running Enough cushion around (Topo Athletic, without feeling “overly n.d.) stacked” (Paige, 2019) 22 STATE OF THE ART PRODUCT ANATOMY The state-of-the-art running shoe is comprised of three main components: the upper, midsole, and outsole. The upper is the fabric part of the shoe that interfaces with the foot. The function of the upper is to protect the foot from debris and keep the foot secure and stable. State-of-the-art uppers are lightweight and breathable. They may include reinforcement for durability and abrasion resistance, especially around the toe. Many brands have proprietary upper technology, such as Nike Flyknit or Brooks 3D Fit Print, which improves the fit and stability with minimized seams and zoned structure for a secure fit. The upper has many parts which may vary by style, but a typical running shoe has a vamp, quarters, collar, heel counter, toe cap, lining, tongue, overlays, eyerow, and laces. Many modern uppers do not include overlays or external toe caps, and instead structure is built into the upper with TPU films called hot melts or knitted directly into the fabric. The next, and arguably most important, component of a running shoe is the midsole. The midsole is the main cushioning element of the shoe. Most running shoes use either EVA or proprietary foam such as adidas Boost or Nike React. Many midsoles also include other proprietary encapsulated technologies for stability, cushioning, flexibility, or protection, such as a rock plate, medial post, or Nike Air units. Underfoot cushioning may also be influenced by sockliners and the strobel construction (Sokolowski, 2019). The final main component of a running shoe is the outsole. The outsole is the interface between the shoe and the ground, providing traction for the runner. Outsoles are usually made of rubber, and often are comprised of branded compounds, like Vibram Megagrip, or special 23 geometries, like Altra Trailclaw. Outsoles may vary depending on the terrain, with more aggressive lugs on trail shoes and more minimal, zoned traction on road shoes. MATERIALS Materials in running shoe uppers include synthetic engineered knits, air mesh, TPU films and hot melts such as Bemis, and synthetic leather. Midsoles are made of proprietary foam compounds or EVA. Some midsoles may also include TPU components for stability or cushioning inserts such as gel, air bags, or mechanical cushioning systems. Outsoles are made of blown or solid rubber. MANUFACTURING Materials are die cut and stitched together into an upper shell. Alternatively, the upper is fabricated in one piece with a CNC knitting machine (Motawi, 2017). The upper is then assembled to the lining and any reinforcements, padding, or overlays, and then attached to the strobel. The completed upper and strobel are heated and slipped onto the last to take form (Motawi, 2019). The midsole is compression molded, and any encapsulated units are glued into place. Rubber outsole components are injection molded. The upper is glued to the midsole, and the outsole is glued to the midsole. Finally, the laces and sockliner are put in place. GRAPHICS, LOGO, COLOR Macro applications for women’s athletic running shoes include the upper silhouette, manufacturer’s logos, color, graphics, and technology (Sokolowski, 2018). The silhouette is usually a classic running silhouette, with a trend towards more minimal, sock-like silhouettes, 24 such as with the Nike Epic React Flyknit 2. Classic features of the silhouette include a prominent Achilles tendon protection along the back of the heel, padded collars, and a one-piece upper with minimal overlays. External molded heel counters are also common for added stability. The primary logo application is usually along the lateral side of the shoe, with secondary logo applications on the medial side, tongue, and outsole. The model name of the shoe is also usually present on the shoe, as well as technology callouts such as cushioning systems. Color application varies greatly across brand and shoe models. Companies like Nike and Hoka One One are embracing retro ‘90s inspired color palettes of bright pink and yellow with many outlandish, contrasting colors, whereas more traditional brands like New Balance and Brooks keep their color palettes fairly subdued, with only one or two accent colors per colorway, and base colors of black, grey, or blue. While many colors are available in medium width sizes, filtering by Wide results in much more limited color options, and typically only black and white (Fig. 10). Fig. 10 Running shoes often come in bright and bold ‘90s inspired colors (left) or more muted and feminine colors (center). However, when filtered by size, all that is left is boring black and white colorways (right) (Brooks, n.d., Hoka One One, n.d.-b, Merrell, n.d., New Balance, n.d., Nike, n.d.-a, Saucony, n.d.-a). 25 PATENT LANDSCAPE Relevant utility patents in this space include those related to adjustable fit and sizing for footwear, as well as cushioning systems, as outlined below. ADJUSTABLE SIZING • Athletic shoe with an adjustable sizing system (U.S. Patent No. 6,442,874 B1, 2002) • Adjustable footbed assembly for an article of footwear (U.S. Patent No. 2011/0185600 A1, 2011). • Custom fit system with adjustable last and method for custom fitting athletic shoes (U.S. Patent No. 7,992,243 B2, 2011). Cushioning Systems • Running shoe with differential cushioning (U.S. Patent No. 4,364,189, 1982). • Footwear with adjustable viscoelastic unit (U.S. Patent No. 4,817,304, 1989). • Cushion wedge for custom control of impact and pronation upon heel-strike in various weights of wearers (U.S. Patent No. 4,882,856, 1989). • Shoe comprising liquid cushioning element (U.S. Patent No. 5,155,927 A, 1992). • Footwear cushioning spring (U.S. Patent No. 5,279,051, 1994). • Article of footwear with a motion control device (U.S. Patent No. 6,457,262 B1, 2002). • Shoe with tunable cushioning system (U.S. Patent No. 6,807,753 B2, 2004). • Energy return sole for footwear (U.S. Patent No. 6,860,034 B2, 2005). • Shoe cushioning system and related method of manufacture (U.S. Patent No. US 7,225,491 B2, 2007). 26 • Air-circulating shock absorbing shoes (U.S. Patent No. 2008/0184600 A1, 2008). • Article of footwear having a fluid-filled chamber with flexion zones (U.S. Patent No. 7,752,772 B2, 2010). • Mechanical cushioning system for footwear (U.S. Patent No. 7,793,432 B2, 2010). • Article of footwear with heel cushioning system (U.S. Patent No. 8,181,364 B2, 2012). • Footwear with dynamic arch system (U.S. Patent No. US 9,204,687 B1, 2015). • Cushioning assembly for an article of footwear (U.S. Patent No. 2017/003514.6 A1, 2017). PROJECT ALIGNMENT This project is aligned with Chrissy’s skills because of her experience working as a professional footwear designer for the kids’ brand, PLAE. She has experience working on the entire footwear design process, from concept to final product and will be able to execute the same process here as if she were working directly for a company. Designing kids shoes specifically sets her up well to be able to design for the plus-size market, since kids typically have wider, thicker feet. She has been able to successfully design shoes for kids that grade from size 5 toddler up through size 4.5 youth, keeping in mind how the design will be affected by different proportions. Chrissy also has experience working with plus-size body scan data through her work as an intern for WARE Labs. She has analyzed plus-size bodies, taken anthropometric measurements using Anthroscan, and organized the data. She is very detail-oriented and will be able to use her past experience to determine a new methodology for analyzing plus-sized foot scans to develop a shoe last. 27 Chrissy’s core strengths as a product innovator are storytelling, problem framing, and design research. She is able to take a vast amount of research and distill it down to communicate a design story to which the audience can relate. While not a plus-sized athlete herself, Chrissy comes at this project as a passionate ally of the plus community who will advocate for their needs with empathy and enthusiasm. Her experience as an athlete with foot trouble sets her up well to relate to the needs of the plus-size runner. This project will support Chrissy’s career as a footwear designer because it highlights many parts of the research and development process that she would like to tackle in the future. The topic is in line with her interest in injury prevention without being overly ambitious to the point of being unachievable without a team of researchers. Living an active lifestyle and specifically running is such an important part of her life. It is stress-relieving, inspiring, and freeing. Her main goal as a designer is for more people to feel empowered and able to run. CONCLUSION In an Outside Magazine podcast with Mirna Valerio, she describes a visit to a new doctor in which he took one look at her and said, “you’re obese,” without knowing anything about her or who she is as a person; he only saw her size (Mack, 2019). Unfortunately, plus-size women are frequently seen as unhealthy or unfit because of their size or weight. Nearly 35 percent of adults in the US, or 78.6 million people, are obese, a problem that the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention call a national epidemic (Gonzales-Campoy, 2019). While many will be quick to jump to medical intervention to tackle this issue and focus on a systemic need to encourage weight loss, a study by Penney and Kirk (2015) looks at the efficacy of the Health at Every Size (HAES) approach, which challenges the assumption that weight loss is the only way 28 for people with obesity to improve their health and instead encourages body acceptance and developing a healthy lifestyle. Penney and Kirk discuss how the HAES approach is shown to improve quality of life and even showed weight reduction without specific effort to lose weight. By shifting the focus away from weight loss instead to the promotion of the idea that every body is an athlete’s body, no matter the shape or size, more women will be encouraged and confident to live active, healthy lifestyles. Products designed for the particular needs of plus- sized runners can help achieve this goal by supporting these athletes as they begin or continue along on their journey towards becoming happier, healthier humans. 29 PART 2 project development Field work Field research for this project was conducted over the course of two field research trips and several individual interviews with athletes in the local Portland area. The first research trip was to New York, Massachusetts, and Colorado, and the second was to the United Kingdom. The main research questions for the field work were the following: • What does the plus-size runner’s gait look like, and how does it differ than the “average” runner? • What are the main frustrations plus-size women have with their current footwear? • What is most important to plus-size women when choosing footwear? • What is the current last making process, and how can it be adapted to meet the needs of plus-size runners? • What are the current trends in the outdoor industry in regard to materials, silhouette/form, and footwear construction? The first part of field work was centered around athlete insight research. Athlete insight was conducted through a meeting with Mirna Valerio at her physical therapist and sport performance sponsor, Custom Performance, located at 295 Madison Ave, New York, NY. The meeting consisted of interviewing, shoe analysis, and gait analysis. During the interview, Mirna 30 reiterated comments she had mentioned in an earlier phone interview about her footwear frustrations and preferences. She said that her feet are proportional to her height and weight, and they are not particularly wide in a traditional sense, which is in line with the study by Tománková et al. (2015) about the effect of obesity on the foot shape and size. She looks for shoes that are stable yet lightweight and give a “feeling of stability while still being neutral”. She prefers shoes with traction that is not too aggressive, since she often wears trail shoes on the road or treadmill. Her current shoes were analyzed, and excessive wear was noticed to have developed on the medial collar of the shoe, despite the shoes being relatively new. The excessive wear is likely a result of kicking herself as her form breaks as she tires out on long runs. She said her shoes typically wear down after around 200 miles. Her gait was analyzed while walking and running on a treadmill (Fig. 11). While walking, she has a prominent heel strike, whereas while running, she lands flat-footed with a midfoot strike. Her run gait is very compact, almost like a shuffle, with minimal dorsiflexion, kick back, or knee drive. She takes very short steps and has almost no float time, such that her front foot is on the ground at the same time or before her back foot is in the air. Fig. 11 Mirna’s walking gait (left) was compared to her running gait (right). 31 While not directly related to the field work in New York, more athlete insight research was conducted through Mirna’s Facebook group, FATGIRLRUNNING. A survey was conducted through this Facebook group, resulting in 93 responses and enthusiastic support for this project. Key takeaways from the survey were about plus-size women’s footwear preferences and frustrations (Fig. 12). The preferred brand of running shoes is Brooks, and the most popular model is the Brooks Ghost. Wide fit, wide toe boxes, and overall fit were the most reported reasons for choosing their current shoes. “Comfortable” or “felt good” were also popular CURRENT $HOES BY BRANO HOW DID YOU CHOOSE YOUR CURRENT $HOE$? Cot.,n-bo "' WHAT DON'T YOU UKE ABOUT YOUR CURRENT $HOE$? MOST IMPORTANT FEATURE Fig. 12 Results from a survey sent to the FATGIRLRUNNING Facebook group. 32 reasons for choosing shoes. Many women chose their shoes based on a recommendation from a specialty running shoe store after a fitting. Sole durability was the most common frustration reported about their current running shoes. Women reported their shoes wearing down after around 150 miles, rather than the typical 300-400 miles for the “average” runner. A woman named Erika said, “I have gained significant weight and the cushioning breaks down very quickly. When I weighed less this wasn't an issue.” There was also frustration regarding the limited color and design availability in wider and bigger sizes. The most important features reported were fit, comfort, and support. Many of the comments mentioning “comfort” referred to the shoes being wide enough to fit their feet, such as Heather who said, “If they don't fit comfortably, I can't wear them. Finding them wide enough. I tried on 6 pairs before these.” Other comments about comfort referenced finding the “goldilocks cushion level,” with the correct balance of underfoot cushioning comfort and ground feel. Similarly, comfort was defined by shoes with the right amount of arch support. Responders ranked footwear features on a scale of 1 to 5, where 1 is the least important and 5 is the most important (Fig. 13). Comfort was rated very high, with the vast majority of responders ranking it as a 5. Other high- Feature Importance Breathability Bulkiness Color Comfort 1 2 Customization 3 4 5 Flexibility Protection Style Weight Fig. 13 Footwear features, rated from 1-5, where 1 is the least important and 5 is the most important. 33 ranking features were breathability, bulkiness, and weight. Style and color rankings were less consistent, likely because it is less important to the athletes than the performance of the shoe. Since performance is their priority, they are choosing shoes that fit or feel good, but then are frustrated with the way they look. Further interviews were conducted in the Portland Metro area with women contacted through the FATGIRLRUNNING Facebook group. Interviews were conducted with Eleanor from Molalla, OR, Jessica from Portland, OR, and Robin from Sherwood, OR. Their shoes were analyzed, measurements and arch prints were taken, and their feet were 3D scanned using the Structure 3D scanner (Fig. 14). Many of the key takeaways from these interviews reiterated Fig. 14 3D foot scans were taken of the three women, Eleanor, Jessica, and Robin (right). Their shoes were also analyzed (center) and their feet were measured on a Brannock device (left). feedback from the FATGIRLRUNNING survey, such as preference for the brand Brooks. Robin described how she feels like Brooks cares about women like her, especially over brands like Nike, which she felt did not care about everyday athletes like her, since most of their imagery and marketing focuses on elite athletes. Jessica described her ideal shoe as being flexible and moving with her foot. Eleanor described comfort as “difficult to define – you know it when you feel it.” She further described comfort as having, “the right amount of squishiness in the insole, the right amount of wiggle room for my toes, the ability for the shoe to stay in place snugly 34 without slipping on the heel or being tied so tightly that it risks cutting off circulation.” Robin’s feet, which she reported as being size 8 medium, were selected for use in developing a last. Her 3D foot scans were 3D printed with PLA on an FMD printer. The second part of field work was centered around last development. The first part of last development research was a tour of the Jones and Vining development office in West Bridgewater, MA. Bob Albert and Tomas Arzeno gave a tour of their office, including their work bench and last making tools (Fig. 15), lathe, 3D scanner with specialty last scanning robotic arm, and archive of lasts. A key finding from this visit was that given the high cost of midsole tooling, companies will use the same tooling for A, B, and D width shoes. The result is a wider last which is then just hanging over the edge of the tooling. Other key findings were about the measuring techniques for last making. Measurements are taken non-weight bearing. The last must also measure smaller than the foot, since it is assumed that the shoe will tighten around the foot once the wearer steps in it. However, both of these facts seem to be assumptions that are not founded in science, but more traditional last making techniques developed for leather dress shoes. Fig. 15 Bob Albert’s work bench at Jones and Vining in West Bridgewater, MA. 35 Further last making research was conducted through the Lastmaker House four day last making workshop in Eastbourne, UK (Fig. 16). Using traditional last making measurements and wood working techniques, a pair of wooden lasts were created over the course of four days under the instruction of Steven Lowe, a last maker who trained at John Lobb St. James’ Street (Lowe, n.d.). The first day started with measurements, which include drawing the outline of the foot and measuring the straight ball girth, diagonal ball girth, instep girth, back instep girth, and heel girth. The workshop is designed to have the participant make a pair of custom lasts based on the participants own measurements, but the coursework was modified in order to accommodate the needs of this project, and Robin’s 3D printed feet were used to take the foot Fig. 16 Photos from the last making workshop. 36 measurements. While typically a bespoke pair of lasts is made using the unique measurements of each of the wearers’ feet, which are not usually the same, the wider and longer measurements were used in order to develop a pair of identical lasts. Consideration was also given to accommodate the thickness of an insole, which is not typically included when developing a dress shoe last. Once the measurements were c.:::::::::::, established, the filing began, starting with an oversized pre- CRISPINIANS I Llff&IRJ:F turned last. The pre-turned last was checked for adequate \/odr-.... .,._ '""' \I WW'Wf~com • ~COffl '9-1.i>1Jl:J-7234J,1 ratio of heel height to toe spring, as lowering the heel height increases the toe spring, and raising the heel height decreases the toe spring. Work began at the heel, removing material with a file, checking the outline, and repeating the process Fig. 17 The last was frequently compared to the outline and measurements to work (Fig. 17). Once the heel was shaped and matched the outline towards the correct shape and size. of the foot, the toe was shaped in a similar process. Using Robin’s measurements, the right last was shaped and sized. Once the right last was complete, work began on the left last. An insole pattern was taken from the bottom of the right last using masking tape in order to determine the shape need to create the left last. Once the bottom of the left last was shaped to match the right, the top left last was shaped to match the exact curvature, shape, and measurements of the right (Fig. 18). Fig. 18 A tool used to match curvature from one last to the other. 37 Finally, once the left and right lasts were shaped and sized as desired, the lasts were sanded to smooth and fine tune and bumps or inconsistencies. The result was a pair of nearly identical wooden lasts based on the measurements taken from Robin’s 3D foot scan (Fig. 19). c:: > C RISPINIANS L11111/NI IAST&TREE .\Iaken ,\/ade-lo-mea.sure ~___ _.> ,\/ade-lo-orde~ www.crispinians.com • info@crispinians.com ~ Tel :013~23 424 Lastmaker House -+t, Street, Eastbourne. BN21 .,, • • Fig. 19 Robin’s 3D printed feet and the finished lasts. 38 A final goal for field research was trend research at Outdoor Retailer in Denver, CO. Trend research was gathered and used for inspiration in the design process. Research included visiting material suppliers such as San Fang and Huntsman for material inspiration and sourcing; brands such as Vibram and adidas for trim, silhouette, and construction inspiration; and technology companies like Pulse Fit System, who use 3D scanning to create custom ski boots. design briefs Any Body is a collection of two shoes designed for plus-sized women. Any Body celebrates the back-of-the-packers and the too-fat-to-runners with road and trail running shoes they want to wear, not just the only thing that fits. On the next four pages are the design briefs for these two shoes. Both shoes are for the serious runner who is looking to train for longer distance races such as the half marathon. The top four problems to solve for both shoes are: 1. Fit – actually fits a plus-sized woman’s foot, and accommodates a wide range of foot girths and widths 2. Durable cushioning – outlasts their current shoes with the right amount of cushion and ground feel 3. Arch support – neutral arch support that moves with the foot for a secure, supported ride 4. Style – looks good, taking into account a wide/anatomical shape. In addition to these design priorities, the road shoe will also emphasize flexibility, with a dynamic and flexible sole that moves with the foot, and breathability, promoting airflow to keep feet cool. The trail shoe will also prioritize traction with a stable and grippy outsole for confidence on uneven terrain, and protection from debris, mud, water, and rocks. 39 ANY BODY’s Road women’s road running shoes GOAL PRICE A women’s road running shoe that is finely tuned to the needs of the serious MSRP $120 | FOB $30 plus-size runner who is ready to train for a half marathon and wants a shoe with the comfort, style, and durability to go the distance. SEASON F/W 2022 FEATURES + BENEFITS ACTUALLY FITS Durable cushioning Perfect support Dynamic Traction Proportioned to fit a plus- Outlasts current shoes with Arch support and stability Lightweight and flexible size woman’s foot with a the right amount of that moves with the foot outsole grips the road for a natural foot shape cushion and ground feel for a secure, supported ride smooth, reliable foot strike 40 ANY BODY’s TRAIL women’s TRAIL running shoes GOAL PRICE A women’s trail running shoe that is finely tuned to the needs of the serious MSRP $120 | FOB $30 plus-size runner who is ready to tackle more vert and mileage on the trail and wants a shoe with the comfort, style, and durability to go the distance. SEASON F/W 2022 FEATURES + BENEFITS ACTUALLY FITS Durable cushioning Perfect support Tough Traction Proportioned to fit a plus- The right amount of The same secure, Provides a stable and grippy size woman’s foot with a enduring cushion, supported ride found in her base to move confidently natural foot shape protection, and ground feel road shoes across variable terrain 41 Graphic, Form, and style direction The graphic, form, and style direction is inspired by triangulation in architecture, as well as other instances where curved and rectilinear lines combine to create dynamic forms. Color Direction INTShPIeR AcToIlOoNr cdoirleocrtion was inspired by Central Park in New York City. The cool, artificial tones of the city combine with the more natural tones to create a sense of calm amongst chaos. 42 ideation process The ideation process began initially with sketching using Autodesk SketchBook (Fig. 20). However, with so many design priorities and no systematic process to approach solving the problems, the sketches were not very focused or interesting. -... , _.. - ~J;:,J, ~ ,,,,. ,q ~-:·~ .. ;!'., ... ,. ....... Fig. 20 The first round of sketching was not very focused. To take a step back, mind mapping was used to analyze each problem to solve individually against each of the elements of the shoe—last, upper, sockliner, midsole, and outsole (Fig. 21 and 22). With the mind maps as a guide, more sketching was done with a clearer focus, looking at each of the problems to solve individually. 43 ROAD LAST UPPER SOCK LINER MIDSOLE OUTSOLE 1.m ...at 00IIIICI or'I OUl·lllO tOl:1 P0c'.vr...-oroot~all:' ~t-..c:port,Clr'V.IA)()(-1 DUI' ,n or1:hsupoo,t ,it,.... ~••rnc,oot~IIOt•to -0-~X,0~00$.CICXl"':cutl'v;,t -•'"9'~mCJIQIKJISV,Cldd <.oc:x .... :r«natitO&i..e,r,t'W'· r.1q,t>w-OO,...r. C,...,prQl'kll,;iF'I Neutral orch support • .,,..,.,. .tl."u.f.c.ic.tc.m.C.J C1$11:tO'...,.l'QOl .,.......,_ \NfOPl)rlgl,,W'Ol;>rtt-eJootto Oud.Pocklf""°oct.oor.• 4.MOBILITY ~meonr-.eilOOOll'Ot -""'l'•'-•~~0 ~-e119Foo~onsoc,r~ro, l"'i.J'iC!leVOVIOO.~ •.-~(.(/o.Jl9(Ho~l'o, l'T'<:'O .... ~to~11"1t motP'>QtltOi'mO\ ...... mooo«v "-•fllitoCIIOr,,.'tnolnc·n ,,. . ~~motO"t Dynom1C/flex1ble for o smooth ride thot lie), \oVd.lOn ... a,.:,, i.,r,gtl'I rnc,,.,.~t...,... •oct"lyOloOQ'etS'vt' ~ -- Qff9C1 tne- wovtr-.~1001:S 8. BREATHABILITY ,..,.~l'T"O"..(. .. Wf,. ... -W,,'1- ..:JIJOn.,'il,lrfo,otOf111.,, Y«'Cllot,Cf"l-"~to ~ l.o 11r-co.,ooo O•'ow O'ONOtl.o~fto,-,-, Hos odequote O1rnow to keep the foot .,,....,lKlt()r)O'll,...IOtl'fCII~ I.I"<»" tM 90(1< r,rw,? Ot>OlCQOlbr.oot from overheating or sweating excessively TRAIL LAST UPPER SOCKUNER MIDSOLE OUTSOLE 1.m OltDCIGl'OOf',f'.La. ... lOCII: ~om~crw:r.::tnc:lll ;,oc • .,....,Cllbwf;CIW' ~•tc,otie.,"-iT't ,..n,IC"- arCf\O"'-'~"Of.bOt Proport1onol/onotom1co1 fit for plus-sized l"OliJf'fr> ~ ,~..!.Q..,C,..I IIOC:,.... .. (OOl"O'IO'W'I «tfer~inl'la,•aa.grr'l(Dl - ~ore,,~ feet Gtle".t,...,~to oc:c:c:rn::,o:rA~n ....... 2. CUSHIONING ~--ormcioaixo- -~""-'~O-IQ ... toorn"'°"°Do ,~10.o.c. ~lf'CWD:• .... -•~,,.-,C,OC-t>f#l•r ic..·..o ,o~ Durable cush1on1ng with the right rnc,c:nar"a"l'\'1CfOQOlo,1N7 ~ ~o,'l•r-.~ "' amount of ground reel ond fleX1b1hty Qf'Cll"l'W!•',IOQ0eOl1)~ 3.SUPPORT -0,-,W,,Na'IO"OPIOPoMt, ~, .1LC'.lPO'\ontr.ut,1~ .•, • .nO,O,ltJOPO!l r, t• ,. .~., _,ltf'l"_l"l90olr ...,."\Qt OllMoO~CIAnot • r .•'f\"lllr~O.!!!Xld -• ~_.-.1r 10tnaoto....,._, · .r·.~""l~pit,r' Neutral orch support "-'---' tr.b:JIOSaJle,U,V., WICJOCW'IQut'.:»f!"N• ,,..,.. •1"'•1'trV~l£»"00 Stobie ond gnppy for confidence on ,~cottc,m"'"Otbl-1 .. q,..oor~ ~t"VtlDOM f-cllCJWI•,...~~ vonoble terrain (uphill ond downhil0 IP"f'toolor'Ol~ without being overly aggressive 5.STYLE VNl•r.-Xl9CO"toCI.«• UM~•l'Ot ~04'°""""'tu«OA L~bl>OVYCOOl"~C on~laitbuC .. ~"~,-,.flk;ll,ono~ Ol'f~O,J\,.QleO"'I.,... IT~tnDtarllOW"V Looks gOOd even 1n w1de/onotom1co1 intl:l~"'°"""tn(II: 1_to,.,-,,w.;e.",°." ""'m'CbfV'll.lQQII ,.,,-,or~ ~~QNoctm. wu,,trwv~1001m 8. PROTECTION ~P"O(!t'ITO'l"Oor-.'OOo HMDClt".otnO'I ... • •~•a,....~• ~ r..cc,,,,-,f'ooct,,'l ,~C_Ol."l.ll.fV,C.lJ,O.l" lien:l/01'WOS..- .fO..C.•t,ir.C,t.l',C_tO,'l,ll.o,,.,,t.!. . c,, . .-:tfrlYo'I~ ,...,., MO':~t,ornrr,,q,. Protection from debns/mud/Woter (but ~.fl~o,.AN'l _,,.,oot wa aM"'IOfW'tO still breathable) ond underfoot rrom rocks """"" CW~ l'd lg,gl: Dl'Ol:K "°9',....~~ ton to • ffP o.A OIO'e Fig. 21 Each part of the shoe was examined for ways that aspect could affect the problems to solve. 44 L.I, ~. / f"~r Ip•<« i,.,.~~ "ff'' .., /•/j of. >f>•I<~ -v r/ \ 'f" .. le.~: "~/ ~f~.r-L ------- °' ,,.,._P ... I s {; A F,,qf ) '(I -- , • CJ s'J - ,·I'\. L; J- s / /x,o/..r o,.,. Sor>x. CJ:>r,.., 1 ·rdio n / I --- l,, hf c. v / "- l 'J / rth Street, Eastbourne. BN?' • C =::::> CRISPINIANS limited LAST&TREE Alakers Alade-/o-measure=,llade-to-ord.~ www.crispinians.com • info@crispinians.com ~ Tel :01323 723424 Lastmaker House Photos from the Last Maker House in Eastbourne, UK Last making research -------------------• PIN I N MliASUHING INFORMATIO SHEET1 1) TAKE THE OUTLINE ANO MEASURE SITTING DOWN. MAKE SURE KNEE IS STRAIGHT 2) 3) AN ADDmONAL STANDING OUTLINE MAYBE TAKEN IF FEET INDICATE A LARGE AMOUNT OF SPREAD. VERTICAL \j/ POSITION ~ OUTSIOEJOINTBOl,F. THROUGHOUT INSTEP 4S 'ANGLE l UNDER ARCH BACKI NSTEP HEEL 4) 5) 6) LEG MEASURt:MENT KE\'S: TAKEN STANDING ANO • REQUIRED FIRST MfASUREMENTTAKfN 1 , - JOINT BONE AT 4• UP FROM FLOOR 0 -® - OUTSIDE BONE ® 0 -® •ASNEEOEO t \ '® I PROMINENT INSTEP BONE JOINT BONES INS1!P BACK HEU @ - HAMMERTOE° ~ 1 - ( j INSTEP LAY PENCIL FLATONTOPOF HIGH TOES THEN MEASURE DOWN TO GROUND. I . I 0 r . • LIFT FOOT AND NOTE ON MEASUREMENT FORM II NARROW HEEL +2· l /I VERY HOOKED OVER HEEL AS INDICATED IN SECTION 4) i +2" ) TO HIGHLIGHT PROMINENT DIPS FOR BALL, BIG TOE OR OUTSIDE JOINT BON!:S i +2· I 4• 11 Last making measurement guide Inspiration Early mood board Inspiration Inspiration for details, materials, and graphics Inspiration Early color exploration ideation Tl,,--.._; l "D:7~__; ~ f \t,-c~b \._J ~~~c-1-i~:) - s-b-bL_ (3) c,....._J. j.,, ;~f) Co~ G) Sol~ Cov-- - v o- .... :e.. sl,'.- 4---".,. c-., r-- 5"""-..o~\.... V\~ ~ y, 1)__,...-~ ~I~ G) ~'$. ... e.1, k '"~ s fy ~ +c. k7 C c ... ~c;:-,o ~ U f~~ \1'vO~c. ~".)'J '-f>~ ,- ¼-\- .,.;,"-.,\ C....V"'-.o....,.._.\-- u C: ~ ho v---- J.,,_ ~ -, S / V'\-0"~...s c,.__.,-~ h. } L,_.._ 9 ,rO ~..-J µt \ 'fh.v d / "'-"' k ... ( l -~ s~\\ \:. .... -<-~\.-~c:.b\A) c..., 5"1 :o. ... 'r ~ h J '- c... ~Jt.h--"-- \,,. ,v(. \ '- .... sl... ;\'.l .... ,· -; Qv< ... fo""J "1-,7.c-..J © Co ,... I 1'- f(,-C_L r~o Jc: c. .J,o..._ eu,,.t I o 0 +i""'--- o .... (~, + \_:Q -/o.ks Ol... d.,..,_ "" h~\\5 jood.., ~l.&"' ;,,__ V'-'f J...,_ I C\"'"'"" +o """·· (.,.{,.._1 v\....k v ?o<»+- f~"' -lc.c /.-,--, __ S\.(;r-x,- r;,,, .. -. y..,c.k...s ----~----- Prioritizing the problems to solve ideation ROAD LAST UPPER SOck liner MIDSOLE OUTSOLE 1. FIT Last based on plus-size foot Pattern follows anatomical Sock liner follows curvature of Appropriate toe box height landmarks (MTP joint, arch and width of foot (not Proportional/anatomical fit for plus-sized and girth - anatomical malleolus, toes, achilles too narrow) No forefoot inflare (2deg max) tendon) Adjustable arch location? feet Stretchy material/laces to accomodate variations in foot shape 2. cushioning Reduce size of last to acco- Use the sockliner as a Overly soft foam should be Minimal rubber to reduce modate thicker sock liner primary softness/cushioning minimized in place of firmer weight and encourage Durable cushioning with the right mechanism instead of only foam ground feel relying on the midsole Use resilient, dynamic amount of ground feel geometry to absorb impact 3. Support 6mm heel drop for a little Medial support on the upper Built-in arch support in the Moderate medial heel flare to added support but not using firmer materials to add sock liner (not flat) to support slightly adjust over pronation Neutral arch support excessive stiffness the foot as close to the foot No biased midsole Wrapping under the foot to as possible create additional support Movable and/or removable arch support? Two options? ------------------------------------- ----------------1---------- 4. Mobility Uses mean heel to ball ratio No excessive overlays or Flex grooves in sock liner for Midsole should be super Flexible outsole allows for measurements to account materials to inhibit added mobility flexible to allow the foot to free range of motion Dynamic/flexible for a smooth ride that for variation in arch length movement move naturally and give proper flex zone Minimal material in the flex Minimze material where moves with the foot Right amount of toe spring zone possible Stretchy material 5. STYLE Uses the 3D scan to create Use geometry that Shouldn’t be overly bulbous Should be a fun/cool graphic an anatomical last, but takes elongates the foot and gives or teched out, clean lines treatment that isn’t overly Looks good, even in wide/anatomical into account how that it a nice flow so it doesn’t look techy or aggressive proportionally will affect the overly wide way the shoe looks 6. Breathability Minimize materials where Ventilation/perforations in Ventilation in midsole to possible to encourage airflow sock liner allow air to escape from Has adequate airflow to keep the foot Ventilation on the lateral side under the sock liner? and top of forefoot from overheating or sweating excessively Ideation planning ideation TRAIL LAST UPPER SOck liner MIDSOLE OUTSOLE 1. FIT Last based on plus-size foot Pattern follows anatomical Sock liner follows curvature of Appropriate toe box height landmarks (MTP joint, arch and width of foot (not Proportional/anatomical fit for plus-sized and girth - anatomical malleolus, toes, achilles too narrow) No forefoot inflare (2deg max) tendon) Adjustable arch location? feet Stretchy material/laces to accomodate variations in foot shape 2. cushioning Reduce size of last to acco- Use the sockliner as a Overly soft foam should be Minimal rubber to reduce modate thicker sock liner primary softness/cushioning minimized in place of firmer weight and encourage Durable cushioning with the right mechanism instead of only foam ground feel relying on the midsole Use resilient, dynamic amount of ground feel and flexibility geometry to absorb impact 3. Support 6mm heel drop for a little Medial support on the upper Built-in arch support in the Moderate medial heel flare to added support but not using firmer materials to add sock liner (not flat) to support slightly adjust over pronation Neutral arch support excessive stiffness the foot as close to the foot No biased midsole Wrapping under the foot to as possible create additional support Movable and/or removable arch support? Two options? ------------------------------------- ----------------1---------- 4. Traction Keeps foot securely in place Texture on bottom of sock 3-4mm lugs liner to keep it place since the Geometry shouldn’t be too Stable and grippy for confidence on firmer bottom may be more angular or sharp slippery than foam Follows the movement of variable terrain (uphill and downhill) the foot anatomically without being overly aggressive 5. STYLE Uses the 3D scan to create Use geometry that Shouldn’t be overly bulbous Should be a fun/cool graphic an anatomical last, but takes elongates the foot and gives or teched out, clean lines treatment that isn’t overly Looks good, even in wide/anatomical into account how that it a nice flow so it doesn’t look techy or aggressive proportionally will affect the overly wide way the shoe looks 6. Protection Waterproof membrane/boo- Firm bottom on sock liner for Extra heel cushioning to Durable rubber so it doesn’t tie construction and/or water rock protection (but that is still protect from rocks/sharp get too beat up from rough Protection from debris/mud/water (but repellent lining flexible) - mostly under objects terrain Lightweight tongue gusset forefoot, since cushioning still breathable) and underfoot from rocks or other top-of-foot protec- under heel will protect tion to keep out debris Ideation planning ideation c.::i-. •-. -1-~- (o/CN$ 1( ri,,.~,r'" 7 r--t,'1 j-~,.1- c.l·~·k.> I-IV- 14•+- .. tfo...,, s,1.-1- 1/i~v•/ ./n•l:••7 .+tv;JJt<.. .,lo ,.._.,C,.l_;f- ,, 0,/,'iJ--lt l_TPU ,.. .. +,.,_ ~,-... s/,l"r ,_<,,,. ;..,.!;,! ~I-<- /!I. i i-- {bv ~~t.f,.__ /2oA i) t TPAI L ..- 'TRAIL 1c. ... r• t:o•-1-- s«",., .. c1, I A plu,,, 1" 1Nt41,t (O~~\.~ .._,// Lu,, ldk...- ''"'"ii b"'- s .r-g,pi .fo'-k l"1l•~:,~ 1- ~ u,p <1,,k~ 1-tvcL- l•C,tS rll, .... fooJ-- <:Rc,.,,,- ~•i t, n,,.o~L ( Mind mapping - Upper ideation +.,le< ;A~ OCC•V"r o~-" ~D S(e.k~ ol. ;{4<,. i~i.<..l s - ( / 1w,1,,l- ----- ott'P"o pv> ~k +,~ io ~ S, t<-- ~ !) Ir f ~ - ( acco.., .... 4- h- ~,lb., 5L Sl1~\.H, ouJ.,l..u( S~l..;l, ► 7 v--/0 Lt ;~ -h, 0 \All "' I.. ~ ... I,. I '1Y ~ IC.Lt S'~•V(.. Mind mapping - Last ideation Mind mapping - Sock liner , 11 " i ! I J . . I , , t t v l J . . . . . , , I > { j • , d . . , , . J . - ' j - - • ~ • ' 7 4 - - 1 ~ ( 1 + " " " ~ - , . , ? , . , . . . , j , ' - - - - - - - - r r ~ 5 ) ' ' > ' - ' I t i , - . / , , , , . ~ · " " ' s ~ . , , . , . , J , L , J < h 5 " ' o " : 1 - , 0 1 : . 1 ~ ~v , . , . . , 1 , . . 1 . l , . . . . , 1 , ~ ' " ' . . , , , . . , . - . - . J ' r i • p p o ; T d n : : f ' ° ' l " l l f " ' 1 A ' 1 f ' 1 • O j - - , . A . . . . , > 5 ~ - t - 1 • 1 ~ . . . . . . , , < , - , ' : I f l d , , , • . J o ~ . . • ' 1 • 1 4 : t 1 # J 1 ° " : 1 d n ; / / ' ' ' ° , I , / ' " ' i ' " f , , , , . I d v 1 1 5 - f " ' 5 ~ - / • + J - > r " , . , \ ~ - · ; Y ' 7 · · ~ : . } . . . - t • V ' / - 1 - 4 - " ' 1 - t ' > f . , l ' 4 - / ~ " " J • ' ] ' " ' ) . . . . , - . , , . , . / . l , , j ' ( . - " " , " " ? . . . . . . . , l . j J • ~ ~ : I ' , , , , - • " : / _ , / w l ' ? / w y . . , _ . , . , , s a , ' i _ . , y - > j 1 ' 1 ' ' 0 N 0 1 j 1 • ( ) 1 ' 1 ) , . , . , , 1 , , , o ; . ~ · " - i , > t ' 1 1 • P / " " ,. . . . , , . J 1 . , . , , , , . , J ' " " " ' ~ . , . . . . , , ' - 7 f - • f ' A I " ? l f f l / J . _ . ( ! i ' ° l f } Q ' r 0 1 / l ' . . ' Y V L - f L , , . . , . . . . 1 . - . . O t < • Z I . . , , _. J / " 1 ' 1 " ' 1 1 * ~ - 1 . , , , . . ~ ! , f ➔ . . , ~ ~ - D - f - 1 - - r · · J / f f ' & f - . , , . , . , ~ . , , d . , + ' I C , , , , , , 1 . , . , , . , . , , . . . , , ~ ' ' ) l h < " . ) J . . - , . , . . , , ~ . . , . . . . , . . 4 ' 1 ' W J , . . . , c : - r " " - f " ' ! - + , . . . , ,5 1 = ' 1 J r y - + · - . 1 r •" ' f I » ~ - - t • ' i " 7 ' 1 " > · 1 t > 1 " " i I I : ' . , t " " I . . . , q } . , . , . . , - · ~ / . . . . . , . . 0 , - W A . . . . . , , ~ , , y - n . J . J d " " s , , " t z ' > , - , . . . . . , , . " " ' 1 + , . , , J , " " - s ~ q - , 1 1 4 S ~ > f . , , . , , + ' - - r J " + · • ' - 4 t - 4 - 0 ~ \ _ , , , . J , . . - , s _ . , . - f " ' j ~ / - . , . , . ' / ~ 5 ~ . , , , . c ; ' ! , _ . . . . , . , , , ~ o , ~ 1 • • . l h . l ~ . , . . , , . ~ . . . . . , . , . . . , , , 1 - : J . . . , . ~ . . . , , . , , , : . , ' A c . - , , , , , , a . r t • • U " J ' - 1 f . . . , r : J " ' ¥ - , o + J . c i ' t V J . f l , , . , , , _ , . , , , . ~ - ' " " " - " ' 1 - " > - : > _ _ . , , . . . , , ; > < i 1- . , . , , , , . . - , - . . , o ~ , / . . . , 9 - , . . , , 0 , 4 J " U , 1 ' : ; t , + , o J J $ l 1 · - 7 • , i " " " J . , , , , . ~ f . ,. , , , ' f ' i " i c . , l " H , , , , ) < ) 15 ¥ , , , , . . . , ~ _ , , . " ' ; I I ~ 1 J • • r • " I J 1 1 7 ~ ( ) - ' 1 - - " . , e i . . , , 1 , 4 3 . . . . - ; ' ' " " P ' : I . , . . , - v , 1 . r o d ) 1 - - 1 " ' ' ' : 1 . , . b i $ I ) - r 1 < 0 _ . / I - v ~ - 1 " 4 © , - - i · r · , , - , ! , t . . . , . , . • . . , . , , . , Q J ) " ) ' h " ' , ~ A , . . ., , , . , ) " f ' ' ; ( W O J 7 n , Y , < J ? ) < ? ~ s - . . . , ~ > , . , . . , t . " " ~ ' / ~ ~ o - ; . - ' r - 1 " 1 1 - • • . . J t J , ~ / ' - . : . . _ / " ' 1 n : f - o • ° : J I J » - • x l • - ' \ . _ 1 ~ •' " n> > t • • ~ ' - I ~ / - - 1 • , . . , , . . / ' t ' . . . i , 1 1 ' - v ° t " - i o • . . . r - < ' ) 1 7 • # " 7 > f f , J O J o t - j - - - f " ' " " ( > / _ , . . . , _ ' = ! ' S < l f . , , . , , , ; ~ J J - - S 1 " ' \ . ; i " ' 1 . . . . . . , . . . . , . . - . - , r . . • / 1 " 1 . , , . . . . , . , 1 - . , ; , ~ I A , . I J O J - t ; 1 ' / f f ' P , f . , · • • 7 0 , , L . , _ _ , , J . _ , , , . , ) " I = 1 , · , , . , - - - ; , x ' 1 ' · • < > 1 r • >V " ' J • " I t ( . 1 , I " 1 ' 1 4 < / } , , . , , . . . . ~ ~ , . . . . . , . . . , . 0 . . . - 4 ' \ . . . , . . . r J / , , .. . _ . . . ~ T - ~ . - - , , . . . - , ' l " a ' ~ o . ~ . . . , , - ~ - , , , q . . q l ' J e, · • • ' ' f " " O " ' f " " t : : / , : t , t J ; - ) r - 1 1 . . . . . . - ~ . . " " . . ~ . . ~ . ~ ~ • · ' I + . . . , p i • W O p - . . , c ~ . . . . , - . ) ~. . . . r . . . . . J , i 4 ~ I ~ / \ ' I l l ' ~ ( ' - - 1 • · 1 ? f ' l • v ' O • ' 1 1; : i - t • o J . • 1 • 1 " ' 4 / ' " ' - 1 • • . . , , , : ; t s j . , , ~ ~ , • r ~ 1 ' • 1 " > , . .~ ) J n < • " ' 1 / J ; ; , , " ' ' " I / , , , . . . . . . , ~ ' 1 1 - . . . , h - t . . . _ ' ? C f - . . , 1 . . > f ~ c . S . , . _ , 1 ~ ~ . . . , , , . , . . , , . . , J A - - J , , ; . " A , . , J " " ' · , 1 1 - t 1, J , J _ / . . , , , , . , 1 > l / , 1 5 , , ~ . . . . ~ . . . - 1 • 1 1 1 • . , . , , . J . . . , t - { . . . . . ~ , . , , 4 , 1 • . - • t " I I , , , ~ J S J , o - , , , , , , , . ~ ◄ · " ° f , l , r ; , , . , ideation Mind mapping - Outsole/Midsole ( ) ~ ~ ~ - 1 ' - I " " " ' " " " ' • l t " l t I - ' ' " ' ) , < > j - • J • I ! " " \ 6 1 1 ) " 1 ) G r ; . , , " \ : " ! ; - ; • 1 1 / ' - , . < 1 • • , . , " ' I t f 1' : \ ! ) 1 - r , 1 " I ? / ' 4 C. . d ! , , . , . . u • J d s ! p ( / > " / { ' " ' 1 " ' ( l d , 1 ~ - - , , , I ; ) \ t ' d 4 , . . , f f ! I I A " j / ~ " 1 : , . . . ; ~ . S . O i J 0 1 1 . J ~ • • 1 , . , , o + " ' / I > i ' f ( . ~ . . " 1 f f " ' ~ S t " 1 - l - - 1 - = t " " J • , J d ' 1 1 1 · 1 s / , . • . , , n » , J - - ' l ' - . ! , t . . , ' f i ~ l , ~ • , " ' " ° " - t . . ' J . . y , > r . . . d , . . . . , . , , v . ' " ' / . , , q - " } • • ( " / - y ~ c • ' O J J i , J J - i • • • O d ~ r l - ' " ' ' - - - - + - , o i , . . , . . . . . . . . . . . r . 1 r , . . J \ n ~ • ? £ . . . . , , ~ , ' > O a . . . . . . . } ~ , . , . . . . - i . , . , . , I ~ > , . . , 1 , , . , , . . j O O : : J / ~ n J . . . . . , , / - : J ' d - + ~ " 1 . . , , , , i , , > / ~ , . . . s - , - o o t " ' ( , ) A d " l A O ' J . . . . . , d ~ " ' l , t . J - s ? I " " \ • • , r . > d , ~ s . . . . , . . . , . . . o . , . J . , , r l t , - l f ~ , . , d s - , , i • I t . " ' i - " " " " { : " f t 1 ? ' 1 j l ' l " l ' . . . , o j - r f / , . , , . . , o / J , . . . ~ I . , , , . , J , , ~ t • ' f f < W ' " . J ~ , , . . , . . . , . . J 1. . , . . , 1 ° " " ' ? < - t " ! C . • " " \ - t ~ . , ~ _. , , r 1 1 1 . r r • i . + 5 7 L / , y - , v , f ~, . • c / 5 J ~ · . ; d . . . - : , . . , , . . . n J " i · • " " ' I . , , , , . . P " ' 1 - . c , . l f ) : . t , . f ( ' A c ! ? f ' " J O . J " 1 ? - o " - 1 5 - - r l : 1 " 1 H " ~ ' - + " ' , . , . , . . . 1 · 1 , . . , . , 5 j d Y S ( ) d . . , - 0 . - . - : 3 \ , , . . , ; ; , J o . , 1 , . , J , r • w ' I ~ - + i i . , . . , , , , , , . . . . . . , ( , / l (~ i , \ ~ ~ . . . . ~ r n , . , . , _< j , r - ; ~ j• ? f ~ > t o o j ~ . , , , 1 ' ( A • ; " " " ' " ' f ' 7 , . , . , •-~ / . , ¥ ' ' - " ~ ~ , Y - : , _ ' s / , _ . 4 < • r , , - - , ' I ' , 0 • 1 ~ < , v r " \ ' . ( } , ~ s 1 ) ~ _ , k J , • ' \ . . . . ~ • V M - , 1 , o s _ e . , _ ; : ' ~ I P ' " : : ; • : t • " 1 1 ' ' ( 1 - 1 \ ) 1 , , v • \ 1 1 • I t > " , 1 \ . \ • , ~ ~ > • " " ) o l - J , ; c l ' - . . . . . , " " ' t , 5 0 ~ . , , ' ~ - - 1 4 ' 1 t , , . s d " " ' a , , - . , , J " " J . . , , . , . , . f e " " t " ; . , , , . s t ' ~ r · · " 1 ' , , ? " " \ i " A : · \ 1 t - J - ~ ~ • • - - , . f - o l : \ , , . a • o ! ~ - < > , : , . M l • • : . , , J . ¥ ' . , , , , , o : J , - . . , , . i ' I . . , . , I ' ' 1 . 1 1 \ • ' , ~ 1 • , • : . i , - < > ' 1 " ' " ' r - : : : ; . r · · f , , y r - v ~ " , 1 • 5 • • \ 1 , _ , . d r - " • P • > r " 1 • • . J t • \ r 1 ; . . . ' i _ . . . o j . / J , . , ~ . , . , . i ) . - , . . , , o j 7 1 . - ~ L ~ ( ! V • - ; ! J L ~ Q . , " 7 1 1 7 / ¥ > - I . - . ~ ~ , . . . , , . . . . · 4 - - . . . , - . - 4 • J I " ~ - ' ( ' 1 . . . . , / : r S - ! ' ( T l ? , . . . . , , . . . , . . . . . . , ➔ f ' " j ' ' o j . . . . , ~ - t ~ - : 1 - " f " " ~ , , 1 > • " " 1 ' " ? " ' ~ r p . , J , , r / . . , , - > t ' . : ! ' 5 , . , , . . . . . o ' I I s , i J . ~ / ) . . , : n 0 ~ - - - , r d \ . l . , > ' Y " ' ) - , , I > • / " O f ? 1 " f , L M - > ° f ' w > l . , f Q ( } " M O J , i • ~ " U : , / 1 .4 • ~ ", •' l I . I . . . ' " ° - 1 - e " " f ~ . . . . c . . . - - - l " ' " ' . . . . , ? . . . - 0 ,. . . . . . . , . . . . , , - . . . / , 1 - • < > j 1 - • 1 1 1 ' - t 1 ) ~ 1 ' : j . . . . , - v v • I . , . , o r p •" ' . , , F ' . , J - . . . ; , , . , , . , - ~ , . . , . 1 . } - S " . , _ 5 . ; , . . - .• - - • ' I A 5 , , , , , , 1 " ' ° ; : I r . . . . . . . o . . . . . . , - : , - » I S , i " ' , , , t L ; • \ " ' l < t ~ . , . , - 1 0 J . 1 . . . . , . , } , , . . : ) , . , ~ ~ - • I - d " ' > J . . , , - , , . A ' > \ • \ . . , • · 1 1 . . , " ' 1 / ' 5 - - 1 " ' " ' ' ' " i - t , , . . J J . . . 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':,~ c/ I oe;EvA .. oA-i) TR.A IL fhp,c. ?e,.J.J'"b ; n,. •• ( -t- Mind mapping - Outsole/Midsole Ideation UPPER Initial Exploration Early sketches Ideation Upper Support Early sketches - focus on support Ideation UPPER Top Down - Line Exploration Early sketches - focus on top down style lines Ideation UPPER Fit Early sketches - focus on fit Ideation ,:::::::::::::: r=== --:::: I Early sketches - focus on fit, mobility, and style lines Ideation ANY BODY'S ROAD ANY BODY'S TRAIL r~",",f ',"(f""J ...... ~ ~...,......j...~. , > ~d,.,.t.~ ~-~f- ►~ Refining the proof of concept details Ideation ANY BODY’s road Refinements Revising the details and shapes Ideation ANY BODY’s TRAIL Refinements Revising the details and shapes Ideation _NI../\_ Midsole and insole ideation Ideation Midsole ideation INSPIRATION ANY BODY’s road ANY BODY’s road Toe overlay makes foot look narrower Synthetic hot melt overlay (no seams) Anatomical fit with ample toe space Overlapping design Breathable mesh allows for greater variance in ball/instep girth Medial side tie laces Super lightweight single layer mesh Firm synthetic overlay for added arch support Rubberized arch support wraps around instep and secures with laces Velcro top closure helps keep stuff out Water-resistant stretch lining Rugged heel counter for extra stability and protection ANY BODY’s TRAIL ANY BODY’s TRAIL Extra toe protection Durable rip stop woven nylon Anatomical fit with ample toe space Overlapping design allows for greater variance in ball/instep girth Medial side tie laces DWR coated durable abrasion-resistant woven nylon Laces can tuck under tab to Rubberized arch secure support wraps around instep and secures with laces Velcro top closure helps keep stuff out Water-resistant stretch lining Rugged heel counter for extra stability and protection Prototyping Many rounds of prototypes to work through the construction, fit, and details Design direction Asymetrical overlapping tongue design Asymetrical overlapping tongue design reduces bulk and allows for greater girth reduces bulk and allows for greater girth Bemis toe overlay for Bemis toe overlay for variabilityvariability lightweight durability lightweight durability and stability and stability Durable woven polyester Molded rubber side straps lock Molded rubber side straps lock down foot for a secure fit down foot for a secure fit Gusset to keep water Stretchy, breathable and waterproof lining Perforated micro suede Stretchy, breathable lining and debris out for added stability Lugs positioned to provide Flex grooves allow for mobility allow for a smooth, natural transition at toe off Zoned rubber specifically tuneda smooth, natural transition at toe off Zoned rubber specifically tuned for plus-size runners’ gait pattern for plus-size runners’ gait pattern 4mm lugs at forefoot and heel for grip on uneven terrain Breathable polyester mesh diamond pattern for Polyester knit with stetch to mechanical stretch to improve improve fit in the forefoot fit in the forefoot Velcro closure to keep laces out of the way and keep debris out Final proof of concept design direction Design direction Color direction - road Design direction Color direction - trail Ideation ,, I ), ~ / / ;""'i" ~~ ~ . _:5 ~ :> Further design exploration ANY BODY Footwear for the plus-sized female runner University of Oregon, MS Sports Product Design Capstone Thesis Project Chrissy Bettencourt Project Topic USER SPORT ENVIRONMENT Plus-size women (wears size 14+) Run/walk/run Road 30-60 years old Goal: Half marathon Trail Motivated to live an active and Runs with friends a few times a healthy lifestyle, not necessarily week, has done a few 5Ks, but lose weight wants to train for longer races MARKET SIZE 64 million women 30-60 years old X 65% of women wear plus-size clothing = 41 million plus-size women, 30-60 years old 41 million plus-size women, 30-60 years old X 22% of people who run = 9 million potential plus-size runners Footwear needs MORE STRESS + FOOT PAIN FOOT SHAPE CUSHIONING + STABILITY More weight = more stress on Flatter, fuller feet, but not Super soft and cushioned or the bones and skin of the feet necessarily “wide” biased midsoles are not ideal (vGRF = 2.8x body weight) Often fallen arches, excessive Higher BMI = more likely to have pronation foot pain color trends BRIGHT AND BOLD SOFT AND MUTED WIDE = BORING Goes beyond the typical pinks Light pastels offer a more The same colors are not available and purples for “women” with fun, feminine take on a sporty in wide widths bright, ‘90s-inspired colors silhouette ATHLETE INSIGHT MIRNA VALERIO Founded Fat Girl Running “Feeling of stability but neutral” Not overly aggressive traction GAIT ANALYSIS WALK RUN Prominent heel strike Midfoot/flat strike - barely any dorsiflexion Longer steps Minimal float time, short steps Athlete insight Traction Toe-to-heel drop Affordable 1% 4% 3% Availability 2% Arch support Breathable 8% 1% Stability 8% Shoe fitting/store Comfort/Feel recommendation 12% 14% Recommendation Cushioning (friend, online, PT) 9% 6% Fit Lightweight 24% Design How did you choose your current shoes? 3% 2% Durability 2% “Large enough toe box without being too wide in Easy on/off the heel.” 1% - Linda, 60+ years old ATHLETE INSIGHT Model updates Arch support 4% 3% Injury/pain Color/design 7% 15% Other 4% Nothing 10% Sole durability 17% Fit (width, toe box width, laces too short) 13% Bulky Size availability/have to What don’t you like about your current shoes? 2% wear Men's Price 11% 10% “I have gained significant weight and the cushioning breaks down very quickly. When I weighed less this wasn't an issue”. Upper durability - Erika, 40-49 years old 4% ATHLETE INSIGHT Support 13% Comfort Stability 24% 7% Other 5% Natural Feel Cushioning 6% 8% Lightweight 5% Injury/Pain Fit Prevention 23% 9% Most important feature “Goldilocks cushion level.” - Laura, 50-59 years old WHAT DOES “COMFORT” MEAN? “Comfort involves the right amount of squishiness in “COMFORT IN SHOES IS DIFFICULT TO the insole, the right amount of wiggle room for my DEFINE - YOU KNOW IT WHEN YOU FEEL IT.” toes, the ability for the shoe to stay in place snugly without slipping on the heel or being tied so tightly - Eleanor, 40-49 years old that it risks cutting off circulation.” FIT Cushioning + support Athlete insight ABOUT ROBIN SHOE ANALYSIS SCANNED FEET 50-59 years old Looked at her current runnings Structure 3D scanner Size 8 Medium shoes for wear patterns on the Both feet, without socks outsole, insole, and upper Road, half marathons Loves Disney races ANY BODY Footwear for the plus-sized female runner Celebrating the too-fat-to-runners, the back-of-the-packers, and the run/walk/runners. Shoes that women want to wear, not just the only thing that fits. ANY BODY’s Road women’s road running shoes GOAL PRICE A women’s road running shoe that is finely tuned to the needs of the serious MSRP $120 | FOB $30 plus-size runner who is ready to train for a half marathon and wants a shoe with the comfort, style, and durability to go the distance. SEASON F/W 2022 ANY BODY’s TRAIL women’s TRAIL running shoes GOAL PRICE A women’s trail running shoe that is finely tuned to the needs of the serious MSRP $120 | FOB $30 plus-size runner who is ready to tackle more vert and mileage on the trail and wants a shoe with the comfort, style, and durability to go the distance. SEASON F/W 2022 Problems to solve BOTH ROAD TRAIL 1. FIT Actually fits a plus-sized woman’s foot, accommodates a wide range of foot girths and widths 2. cushioning Outlasts current shoes with the right amount of cushion and ground feel 3. support Neutral arch support that moves with the foot for a secure, supported ride 4. style Looks good, even in wide/ 5. Flexibility 5. traction anatomical shape Dynamic and flexible sole for a Stable and grippy for smooth ride confidence on variable terrain 6. Breathability 6. Protection Promotes airflow to keep feet Upper/underfoot protection cool from debris, mud/water/rocks Inspiration Graphic | form | style INSPIRATION color LAST development Eastbourne, UK <: ::> CRISPINIANS Limited LAST&TREE A1aker 1vlade-to-measure c:;;___-====--=-=> klade-to-order www.crispinians.com • info@crispinians.com ~ Tel :013.293 .7 23424 Lastmaker House 1 North Street, Eastbourne. BN21 3HG UK ----- Ideation mind mapping 10<; i . i; r<. 1 r✓ir I P' Uc. - ~ i I-Jc.I '-1'f<., "-/ I ol 5 0 (,. 5./-; C tc l.__ ( r:;r,.,1 rh,,.p ,;+-,"'kl i,v{CI.~ fllJ· ( t,,.(.c.S o-ll•""' vc.(c.v0 ---- ~._. b, YW>~<- Ideation initial exploration FIT Support Cushioning Ideation Refinements Ideation prototyping Final direction any body’s road Asymetrical overlapping tongue Bemis toe overlay for design reduces bulk and allows lightweight durability for greater girth variability and stability Molded rubber side straps lock down foot for a secure fit Stretchy, breathable Perforated micro suede lining for added stability Flex grooves allow for a smooth, natural transition at toe off Zoned rubber specifically tuned for plus-size runners’ gait pattern Breathable polyester mesh diamond pattern for mechanical stretch to improve fit in the forefoot Final direction any body’s TRAIL Asymetrical overlapping tongue Bemis toe overlay for design reduces bulk and allows lightweight durability for greater girth variability and stability Durable woven polyester Molded rubber side straps lock down foot for a secure fit Gusset to keep water Stretchy, breathable and debris out and waterproof lining Lugs positioned to allow for a smooth, transition at toe off Zoned rubber specifically tuned for plus-size runners’ gait pattern 4mm lugs at forefoot and heel for grip on uneven terrain Polyester knit with stetch to improve fit in the forefoot Velcro closure to keep laces out of the way and keep debris out NEXT STEPS Ideation - lots of more sketching to explore form. Look at every aspect of the shoe in detail Prototyping - refine construction to reduce bulk Further last development - 3D scan wooden last, refine toe spring, 3D print 2 new sets of lasts Athlete feedback - meet up with Robin for fit testing and feedback, review concepts with Mirna ANY BODY Footwear for the plus-sized female runner THANKS! SPD 689: collaborative creation & launch studio Spring 2020 Parts + Purpose version 1 road Asymetrical overlapping tongueReduces bulkAllows for greater girth variability Nylon laces GORE-Textm stretch lining 6mm oval laces Water-resistant Durable, slight stretch for a little give Breathable SYnthetic Leather BEMIStm PU FILM Medial eyestay Stitch-free heat bonded heel counter Heat bonded and stitched to secure Adds stability to keep foot secure Polyester Diamond mesh midfoot straps Breathable Polyester spacer mesh heat bonded with Mechanical stretch hugs the foot BemisTM PU film to add stiffness Locks down midfoot for a secure fit BEMIStM PU FILM BEMIStm PU FILM Sewfree® heat bonded toe protection Stitch-free heat bonded lateral eyestay Insole Ortholite® molded dual-density insole 2mm Imperial Plus for dense, high Midsole rebound cushioning and support Polyurethane foam for firm, durable 4mm Impressions for soft, step-in comfort cushioning that supports the foot midfoot flex support Side supports craddle and move with the foot so it isn’t hanging over the edge OUTSOLE Durable zoned polyurethane rubber Tuned for plus-size runners’ gait pattern Flex grooves Smooth, natural transition at toe off Initial Parts + Purpose diagram based on Winter term Proof of Concept design Parts + Purpose version 1 ANY body’s road Line art of Winter term Proof of Concept design Parts + Purpose version 1 Asymetrical overlapping tongue Reduces bulk Allows for greater girth variability Velcro closure keeps debris out Nylon laces 6mm oval laces GORE-Textm stretch lining Durable, slight stretch for a little give Waterproof gusset construction Breathable SYnthetic Leather Medial eyestay BEMIStm PU FILM Heat bonded and stitched to secure Sewfree® heat bonded heel counter Adds stability to keep foot secure GORE-Textm stretch woven Waterproof and breathable midfoot straps Stretches to improve fit in the forefoot Polyester spacer mesh heat bonded with BemisTM PU film to add stiffness BEMIStM PU FILM Locks down midfoot for a secure fit Sewfree® heat bonded toe protection and lateral eyestay DWR coated Woven Polyester Durable, abrasion resistant Waterproof Insole Ortholite® molded dual-density insole 2mm Imperial Plus for dense, high Midsole rebound cushioning and support Polyurethane foam for firm, durable 4mm Impressions for soft, step-in comfort cushioning that supports the foot Segmented Rock plate midfoot flex support Nylon rock plate adds extra underfoot Side supports craddle and move with the protection from sharp rocks foot so it isn’t hanging over the edge outsole lugs OUTSOLE 4mm lugs at forefoot and heel for traction Durable zoned polyurethane rubber on uneven terrain Tuned for plus-size runners’ gait pattern Smooth, natural transition at toe off Initial Parts + Purpose diagram based on Winter term Proof of Concept design PAaNrY tbosd +y P’su TrRApILose version 1 Line art of Winter term Proof of Concept design Mood ABR BREATHABLE | FLEXIBLE | LIGHTWEIGHT Mood ABT protection | traction | durability Ideation reFinement Ideation style lines for Any Body’s Road to make it look fast Ideation reFinement Working on giving sketches a distinct style for each shoe Iideation reFfiinement s Parts + Purpose revised road overlapping tongue design Sock-like fit with stretch knit that still allows for greater girth variability and opens wide for easy entry Lightweight stability reflective Nylon laces Bemis PU Sewfree® heat bonded toe 5mm oval laces with reflective and heel counter for added stability thread for visibility and protection Durable, slight stretch for a little give midfoot support Polyester spacer mesh bonded with TM BreathablE upper Bemis PU film to add stiffness and Polyester diamond spacer mesh locks down midfoot for a secure fit promotes airflow Mechanical stretch hugs the foot arch activation Supports the arch with subtle texture Insole cushioning that cues the arch to engage Ortholite® molded dual-density insole 2mm Imperial Plus for dense, high rebound cushioning + support Durable cushioning midsole 4mm Impressions for step-in comfort Polyurethane foam for firm, tough cushioning that supports the foot forefoot flex supports Side supports craddle and move with the foot for flexible, active support Zoned OUTSOLE Durable polyurethane rubber Tuned for plus-size runners’ gait pattern Flex grooves Smooth, natural transition at toe off c--dJ Revised Parts + Purpose diagram after sketch refinements Parts + Purpose revised ANY body’s road Revised line art after sketch refinements Parts + Purpose revised TRAIL overlapping tongue design Sock-like fit with stretch knit that still allows for greater girth variability and opens wide for easy entry Water resistant Reflective Speed laces GORE-TexTM stretch lining 2mm high tensile strength cord with DWR coated woven polyester reflective thread for visibility Low-profile speed lace cord lock for a fast, secure fit Lf-=, midfoot supportPolyester spacer mesh bonded with BemisTM PU film to add stiffness and Lightweight protection locks down midfoot for a secure fit Bemis PU Sewfree® heat bonded toe c_e>J and heel counter for added stability and protection arch activation ~~- Supports the arch with Insole cushioning Ortholite® molded dual-density insole dJ 2mm Imperial Plus for dense, high ~ rebound cushioning + support Durable cushioning midsole 4mm Impressions for step-in comfort ~ Polyurethane foam for firm, tough cushioning that supports the foot forefoot flex supports Segmented Rock plate Side supports craddle and move with cdJ ~- Nylon rock plate adds extra the foot for flexible, active support underfoot protection from sharp rocks outsole lugs Zoned OUTSOLE dJ 4mm lugs at forefoot and heel for Durable polyurethane rubber traction on uneven terrain Tuned for plus-size runners’ gait - - Smooth, natural transition at toe off pattern Revised Parts + Purpose diagram after sketch refinements Parts + Purpose revised ANY body’s TRAIL Revised line art after sketch refinements Messaging development ANY body overview Any Body shoes use a last tuned to the proportions of a plus-size runner’s foot with ample room in the toe box and instep girth for a wider, thicker foot. The midsole and upper design accommodate many foot widths and girths, with an overlapping tongue design, textiles with stretch in key areas, and midfoot flex supports to allow the foot to move freely while still being supported. The overlapping tongue design opens up wide for easy entry, even for runners with a high instep or thicker foot. The midfoot arch straps on the upper lock the foot in place for a stable, secure fit that can still move. Any Body empowers women at the back of the pack with product that’s made especially for them. It doesn’t have all the flashy features meant to propel runners and magically transform them into 2- or 3-hour marathoners. Instead, Any Body provides technical running shoes that plus-size women need and want—shoes that support their bodies, fit comfortably, and look great. Initial technology overview and athlete outcomes write-up Home studio set up last development Pattern making Pattern making Pattern making Pattern making Prototyping JONES & VINING STANDARD RUNNING LAST prototyping Learning how to make uppers on a domestic sewing machine prototyping Figuring out how to gather the fabric prototyping Testing out a 3D printed mold with Smooth-on casting prototyping Refining pattern, 3D printed a heel counter prototyping llllUlll lllllit. Ill& -111• 111111 11111 -Ill l!IIDHII 1111111!11 11111111 IIIIHII 1!11111111 Casting works-like midsoles prototyping Final works-like prototypes 3D development ABR 3D development ABT Works-like prototypes Validation fit “The toe box is nice. There’s a lot of room where my toes are. It fits very comfortably around my foot. It doesn’t feel snug anywhere.” Robin coon Validation fit “It’s surprising how wide it opens up to get your foot in.” “I like the tongue. That’s a cool design. I like how it’s only loose on one side because it feels a lot more stable, like it’s not going to get bunched up and slide to one side.” ROBIN COON Validation perception “You can actually get your foot in the shoe!” “I like the curves and I like that it looks like other running shoes.” Mirna Valerio || Ultra runner and founder of Fat Girl Running Validation expert interview “If you feel the arch, you’ll start to use it.” Nathan GhaboUR || project advisor “Too much damping in the insole will result in Nike, Digital Innovation Product Director - NXT dissipating energy. The impact on the midsole SOLS, Bio-mechanical Engineer will be too hard and it won’t spring back.” proof of concept Any Body shoes use a last tuned to the they said proportions of a plus-size runner’s foot you couldn’t do this with ample room in the toe box and instep and stretch textiles in key areas to accomodate a wide range of foot widths and girths. The overlapping tongue design opens up wide for easy entry, even for runners with a high instep or thicker foot. Forefoot flex supports and midfoot straps allow the foot to move freely while still being supported and stable. The contoured, textured insole cradles the foot and works with the midsole for the right balance of support, step-in comfort, energy return, and durability. ANY body’s road overlapping tongue design Sock-like fit with stretch knit that still allows for greater girth variability and opens wide for easy entry reflective Nylon laces Lightweight stability 5mm oval laces with reflective Bemis PU Sewfree® heat bonded toe thread for visibility and heel counter for added stability Durable, slight stretch for a little give and protection midfoot support breathable, stretch-fit upper Polyester spacer mesh bonded with Mechanical stretch hugs the foot BemisTM PU film to add stiffness and Polyester diamond spacer mesh locks down midfoot for a secure fit promotes airflow arch activation Supports the arch with subtle embossed texture that cues the arch to engage Insole cushioning Ortholite® molded dual-density insole 2mm Impressions for step-in comfort 4mm Imperial Plus for dense, high Durable cushioning midsole rebound cushioning + support Polyurethane foam for firm, tough cushioning that supports the foot forefoot flex supports Side supports craddle and move with the foot for flexible, active support ~ Zoned OUTSOLE;,....._____ - Durable polyurethane rubberTuned for plus-size runners’ gait Flex grooves pattern Smooth, natural transition at toe off d-- J ANY body’s TRAIL overlapping tongue design Sock-like fit with stretch knit that still allows for greater girth variability and opens wide for easy entry Reflective Speed laces Water resistant 2mm high tensile strength cord with TM GORE-Tex stretch lining reflective thread for visibility DWR coated woven polyester Low-profile speed lace cord lock for a fast, secure fit Lf-:, midfoot supportPolyester spacer mesh bonded with Lightweight protection TM Bemis PU film to add stiffness and ® Bemis PU Sewfree heat bonded toe c.e>J locks down midfoot for a secure fit and heel counter for added stability and protection arch activation ~- Supports the arch with subtle ... embossed texture that cues the arch to engage Insole cushioning ® Ortholite molded dual-density insole dJ Durable cushioning midsole 2mm Impressions for step-in comfort ~ ~ Polyurethane foam for firm, tough 4mm Imperial Plus for dense, high cushioning that supports the foot rebound cushioning + support forefoot flex supports Segmented Rock plate Side supports craddle and move with Nylon rock plate adds extra the foot for flexible, active support underfoot protection from sharp rocks and roots Zoned OUTSOLE Durable polyurethane rubber d- J- outsole lugsTuned for plus-size runners’ gait 5mm lugs at forefoot and heel for pattern traction on uneven terrain Smooth, natural transition at toe off BMrOOaDn Idnsinpigra dtioenvelopment An early mood board that was replaced Mood BRAND How w~s "fouA _ST~ENUOu5 ACTavaty? • I didn't asli , .., ,u ii I l,,,,kcd lik•e a runner. ~0fltUMAT(lY I WAS PR. E PAa.E t> ~ X E.')tPEc.,EO io t>E~PISE IT \ I-tow so, • ~ A~IRJ W~LF0J~JK /J Branding development Initial package inspiration board Branding development /JI IA IA II A D1 q 4 \I '4/jj,J ,J ,J,J\\J ANY ANY BODYANY BODY BODY Wl ANY Wl ANY /J ~ ~ BODY ~ BODY Lt BODY ANY BODY A■ ANf All ae9Y ANY ANY ANY BODY ANY BODY BODY BODY ANY ANY ANY BODY BODY BODY BODY BODY ·~=~)'.( ~BODY ~BODY t'D:~)f ANY ~BODY BODY ANYJtBODY Logo ideation Branding development Exploration of how the logo could be applied to the product Branding development Exploration of how the logo could be applied to the product Branding development Mock up of product photography for midterm Style guide Primary logo secondary logos ANY ANY BODY BODY ANY BODY brand elements product name usage THEYSAID YOU COULDN'T DO THIS Typography primary COLORs title panton black caps 45pt SUBTITLE panton black caps 45pt #3e5796 #231f20 subHeading panton light italic caps 18pt Emphasis panton black italic caps 18pt (used sparingly) Body copy Hero Light 18PT brand elements ANY BODY ANY BODY THEYSAID YOU COULDN'T DO THIS brand elements ANY BODY ANY BODY THEYSAID YOU COULDN'T DO THIS Colorways ABR Colorway exploration. Mild -> Wild Colorways ABT Colorway exploration. Mild -> Wild Website design ANY BODY B Po Technical running shoes that support your body Website design ANY BODY B Po why any body? The unique overlapping tongue design gives you a sock-like fit that opens wide so it’s easy to put on. A secure fit that moves with the foot! Your foot will be locked and loaded to get after your run. Durable cushioning, arch support, and ~ traction, designed for a plus-sized body. c:;::: You’ll feel confident on the road and trail. Shop Road Shop trail You’ll feel confident on the road and trail. Shop Road Shop trail Website design ANY b BODY 00 more than just running shoes Running is hard. It’s a little bit easier with shoes that fit and support you, and a badass community of others going through the same thing as you. Track your miles, post your runs, and join other Any Body women as you get out and celebrate the process. Join the fun Tech pack ABR piece supplier material color Lining Mogae MG3848 Cool Blalon P 19-3943 TCX Bellwether Blue Vamp Mogae MG3808 Cool Caligo Meshler V3P - 18-3946 TCX Baja Blue Quarters Mogae MG3808 Cool Caligo Meshler V3P - 18-3946 TCX Baja Blue Midfoot straps - top layer Bemis EXOFLEX (EXO03900) - 19-3943 TCX Bellwether Blue Midfoot straps - bottom Mogae MG4013 Prio Meshler CDP - 18-3946 TCX Baja Bluelayer Toe Bemis EXOFLEX (EXO03900) - 18-3949 TCX Dazzling Blue Heel counter Bemis EXOFLEX (EXO03900) - 19-3943 TCX Bellwether Blue Eyerow San Fang HOLA-BUCK, 1.2mm - 18-3949 TCX Dazzling Blue Laces VASGO Round reflective, 47in length - 17-1755 TCX Paradise Pink Lace aglet Trendware CP-72 - 19-3943 TCX Bellwether Blue Midsole Hunstman Injection-molded DALTOPED 12-4300 TCX White Onyx, PERFORM - 18-3949 TCX Dazzling Blue Outsole Huntsman Injection-molded DALTOPED GRIP - 17-1755 TCX Paradise PinkTongue logo N/A Screen print 19-3943 TCX Bellwether Blue, 17-1755 TCX Paradise Pink Midsole logos N/A Screen print 19-3943 TCX Bellwether Blue Sock liner - top cloth Mogae MG3848 Cool Blalon P -- 19-3943 TCX Bellwether Blue Sock liner - layer 1 Ortholite 2mm Impressions - 19-1725 TPX Tawny Port Sock liner - layer 2 Ortholite 4mm Imperial Plus - 19-1850 TCX Red Bud t h e y s a i d y o u c o u l d n ’ t d o t h i s A 7.5 3.0 7.0 I 7.0 I 1.0 7.0 I I 12.0 I \ I B B’ 35.7 I \ I \ I \ 23.5 I \ 2.0 I 3.0 11.0 \ I 20.0 \ 287.3 / 2.0 17.0 \ C C’ 1.0 9.0 I \ I 8.0 I I 3.0 6.0 I I 5.0 11.0 44.1 I I 1.0 I I 40.0 43.1 I I 23.1 31.1 I I I D D’ I I 12.0 l 10.0 I - 1.5 59.1 / 10.0 ~ "' -----~ ---- \ , --------- 5.0 51.4 20.0A’ 2.0 2.0 4.7 TOP SECTION A-A’ LATERAL BOTTOM MEDIAL 95.1 77.1 67.0 6.0 33.6 33.2 36.8 39.9 40.4 18.3 24.0 ANY body’s road 1.0 108.7 77.4 83.3 Midsole/Outsole | Technical Drawing Scale 1:2 SECTION B-B’ SECTION c-c’ SECTION D-D’ Women’s Size 8 Tech pack ABT piece supplier material color Lining Mogae MG3848 Cool Blalon P - 18-5612 TCX Sagebrush Green Vamp Mogae MG4022 Deteelon CDP-P - 16-5304 TCX Jadeite Quarters Mogae MG3859 Enamor Woven P - 16-5304 TCX Jadeite Midfoot straps - top layer Bemis EXOFLEX (EXO03900) - 12-5506 TCX Dusty Aqua Midfoot straps - bottom Mogae MG4013 Prio Meshler CDP - 18-5612 TCX Sagebrush Greenlayer Toe Bemis EXOFLEX (EXO03900) - 18-5612 TCX Sagebrush Green Heel counter Bemis EXOFLEX (EXO03900) - 18-5612 TCX Sagebrush Green Eyerow San Fang HOLA-BUCK, 1.2mm - 18-5612 TCX Sagebrush Green Lace kit NIFCO CLEF20SA 2mm 14-0852 TCX Freesia, 18-5612 TCX Sagebrush Green Midsole Hunstman Injection-molded DALTOPED 12-4300 TCX White Onyx, PERFORM - 18-5612 TCX Sagebrush Green Outsole Huntsman Injection-molded DALTOPED - 16-1260 TCX Harvest PumpkinGRIP Tongue logo N/A Screen print 18-5612 TCX Sagebrush Green, 14-0852 TCX Freesia Sock liner - top cloth Mogae MG3848 Cool Blalon P - 18-5612 TCX Sagebrush Green Sock liner - layer 1 Ortholite 2mm Impressions - 19-1725 TPX Tawny Port Sock liner - layer 2 Ortholite 4mm Imperial Plus - 17-1544 TPX Burnt Sienna they s c ao idu yld on u’t do this A 5.0 5.0 5.0 I I \ 3.0 I 8.0 \ I I 10.0 I I \ I 5.0 12.0 \ I B B’ ' 3.0 I 20.0 \ 3.0 I \ I 14.0 \ 4.0 I 3.0 \ I \ 2.0 282.8 I 46.0 \ I 57.7 \ C C’ I \ I D 4.0 I I 4.0 I I 47.3 5.0 4.0 I DO 3.0 18.0 51.2 I I I DD 9.0 I I DD 20.0 I I 15.5 I D D’ 3.0 I I 8.0 9.0 \ 9.0 I "--- / ------ 18.3 -. ---- - ---- A’ TOP SECTION A-A’ LATERAL BOTTOM MEDIAL 77.1 67.3 46.1 7.0 3.0 44.5 44.6 42.0 46.7 17.2 3.0 45.7 17.6 ANY body’s TRAIL 108.2 76.7 85.7 Midsole/Outsole | Technical Drawing Scale 1:2 SECTION B-B’ SECTION c-c’ SECTION D-D’ Women’s Size 8 Any Body envisions a world where no one assumes anything about you as an athlete because of the way you look—a future where no woman feels out of place on the starting line. spirited | unapologetic | purposeful Capstone Project: Final Presentation Spring 2020 University of Oregon, MS Sports Product Design Chrissy Bettencourt Problem statement 65% of women in the US wear size 14 or above, and yet running brands primarily design products for a thin, male body that fits the image of what a runner looks like.. Any Body acknowlledges and embraces the athlletes who don’’t ffiit that molld—the women who werre tolld they’’rre too ffat tto rrun,, butt diid iitt anyways.. Athlete overview user Plus-size women (wear size 14+) 30-60 years old Motivated to live an active and healthy lifestyle, not necessarily lose weight Sport Run/walk/run Goal: Half marathon Runs with friends a few times a week, has done a few 5Ks but wants to train for longer races Athlete insight Fat girl running WHAT DON’t YOU like about your current shoes? Arch Support Upper Durability 3% 4% Sole Durability Color/Design 19% 17% Fit Size Availability 12% 15% Price Injury/pain 11% 8% Other Model Updates 6% 4% Problems to solve POOR FIT Cushioning + support Wide shoes are boring Flatter, fuller feet, but not More weight = more stress on the Running shoes tend to be bright necessarily “wide” feet and shoes and bold, but the same colors are Shoes are hard to get on Super soft shoes break down quickly not available in wide widths Athlete outcomes Any Body empowers women of all sizes and paces to run by providing road and trail shoes that support their bodies, fit comfortably, and look great. Plus-size women will be able to run longer and more confidently. Any Body enables women to feel welcome in a space that too often is filled with people telling them they can’t or shouldn’t be there. Research gait analysis walk run Prominent heel strike Not a transitional gait cycle Longer steps Midfoot/flat strike - barely any dorsiflexion All vGRF, resulting in significantly more stress on the body Research last making Research last making c:: ~ CRISPINIANS Limited LAST&TREE .Haker \tfa de-lo-measure c::_:: __: ::,_ .Jlade-to-o,der www.crispinians.com • info@crispinians.com ~ Tel:01323 723 424 »9C: Lastmaker House 1 North Street, Eastbourne. BN21 3HG UK Ideation ~ ;( - / ~({H~ Mood ABR BREATHABLE | FLEXIBLE | LIGHTWEIGHT Mood ABT protection | traction | durability Iideation refinements Prototyping ANYBODYV1 HANDMADE WOODEN LAST proof of concept Any Body shoes use a last tuned to the they said proportions of a plus-size runner’s foot you couldn’t do this with ample room in the toe box and instep and stretch textiles in key areas to accomodate a wide range of foot widths and girths. The overlapping tongue design opens up wide for easy entry, even for runners with a high instep or thicker foot. Forefoot flex supports and midfoot straps allow the foot to move freely while still being supported and stable. The contoured, textured insole cradles the foot and works with the midsole for the right balance of support, step-in comfort, energy return, and durability. Works-like prototypes Validation fit “The toe box is nice. There’s a lot of room where my toes are. It fits very comfortably around my foot. It doesn’t feel snug anywhere.” Robin coon Validation fit “It’s surprising how wide it opens up to get your foot in.” “ I like the tongue. That’s a cool design. I like how it’s only loose on one side because it feels a lot more stable, like it’s not going to get bunched up and slide to one side.” ROBIN COON Validation perception “You can actually get your foot in the shoe!” ”I like the curves and I like that it looks like other running shoes.” Mirna Valerio || Ultra runner and founder of Fat Girl Running Validation expert interview “If you feel the arch, you’ll start to use it.” Nathan GhaboUR || project advisor “Too much damping in the insole will result in Nike, Digital Innovation Product Director - NXT dissipating energy. The impact on the midsole SOLS, Bio-mechanical Engineer will be too hard and it won’t spring back.” ANY body’s road overlapping tongue design Sock-like fit with stretch knit that still allows for greater girth variability and opens wide for easy entry reflective Nylon laces Lightweight stability 5mm oval laces with reflective Bemis PU Sewfree® heat bonded toe thread for visibility and heel counter for added stability Durable, slight stretch for a little give and protection midfoot support breathable, stretch-fit upper Polyester spacer mesh bonded with Mechanical stretch hugs the foot BemisTM PU film to add stiffness and Polyester diamond spacer mesh locks down midfoot for a secure fit promotes airflow arch activation Supports the arch with subtle embossed texture that cues the arch to engage Insole cushioning Ortholite® molded dual-density insole 2mm Impressions for step-in comfort 4mm Imperial Plus for dense, high Durable cushioning midsole rebound cushioning + support Polyurethane foam for firm, tough cushioning that supports the foot forefoot flex supports Side supports craddle and move with the foot for flexible, active support ~ Zoned OUTSOLE;,....._____ - Durable polyurethane rubberTuned for plus-size runners’ gait Flex grooves pattern Smooth, natural transition at toe off d-- J ANY body’s TRAIL overlapping tongue design Sock-like fit with stretch knit that still allows for greater girth variability and opens wide for easy entry Reflective Speed laces Water resistant 2mm high tensile strength cord with TM GORE-Tex stretch lining reflective thread for visibility DWR coated woven polyester Low-profile speed lace cord lock for a fast, secure fit Lf-:, midfoot supportPolyester spacer mesh bonded with Lightweight protection TM Bemis PU film to add stiffness and ® Bemis PU Sewfree heat bonded toe c.e>J locks down midfoot for a secure fit and heel counter for added stability and protection arch activation ~- Supports the arch with subtle ... embossed texture that cues the arch to engage Insole cushioning ® Ortholite molded dual-density insole dJ Durable cushioning midsole 2mm Impressions for step-in comfort ~ ~ Polyurethane foam for firm, tough 4mm Imperial Plus for dense, high cushioning that supports the foot rebound cushioning + support forefoot flex supports Segmented Rock plate Side supports craddle and move with Nylon rock plate adds extra the foot for flexible, active support underfoot protection from sharp rocks and roots Zoned OUTSOLE Durable polyurethane rubber d- J- outsole lugsTuned for plus-size runners’ gait 5mm lugs at forefoot and heel for pattern traction on uneven terrain Smooth, natural transition at toe off Tooling ~ - ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ .. ■ ■ ■ ■ -■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ • "I ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■• • ■ • ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ • -. ■■■■■■ ■" r II, --■ ■ ■ • ■ • ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ --- - - -■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ -■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ II ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■■■■■■■■■■■■ ■ ■-■-■oil ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■■■■■■■■•if•™ ~ · m 0£00 ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■-■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ •F• Mood BRAND How w~s "fouA _ST~ENUOu5 ACTavaty? • I didn't asli , .., ,u ii I l,,,,kcd lik•e a runner. ~0fltUMAT(lY I WAS PR. E PAa.E t> ~ X E.')tPEc.,EO io t>E~PISE IT \ I-tow so, • ~ A~IRJ W~LF0J~JK /J brand elements ANY BODY ANY BODY THEYSAID YOU COULDN'T DO THIS brand elements ANY BODY ANY BODY THEYSAID YOU COULDN'T DO THIS Any Body envisions a world where no one assumes anything about you as an athlete because of the way you look—a future where no woman feels out of place on the starting line. Thanks!