Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 1 APTURE APPAREL Accessible Athlete Body Positioning Feedback Assistive Form Analysis Athletic Apparel Carly Conduff SPD Capstone Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 2 Introduction Every year, whether it be a national championship, world cup, world series or Olympic games athletes seem to break the boundaries of what was thought was physically possible. While this can be partially attributed to athlete mindset, there is a huge role that technology advancements in training regimen plays. Aspirations of athlete optimization has been driving the field of biomechanics and methods of training for decades. One critical industry to watch in this space is motion capture. As technology increases, the accuracy follows, as does the price point to achieve this. Budget motion capture apps have arisen, but leave require manual post processing, or have high levels of inaccuracies. There has been very little explored in the area of apparel aiding in the function of the technology, rather than an accessory to it. The intent of Apture Apparel to create functional, aesthetic athlete sports product that seamlessly integrates into the accuracy of accessible motion capture as well as creating heightened body awareness to offer positional feedback to young athletes. Historical Product Background Sports science has seen rapid growth in the use of motion capture for form and data collection in the last two decades. However, motion capture first got its origins from the animation industry. (Barbour & Schmidt, 2001). There was a desire to capture more lifelike movements in film characters to help humanize them and make them more relatable to their audience. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 3 1939 1959 1969 1980'S 2020S Gyroscopic inertial Rotoscoping Potentiometers Mocapsuits Markerless IMU navigation Figure 1 Timeline of motion capture technology. The first-time early methods of motion capture were observed was Disney’s Snow White and the 7 Dwarfs in 1939 through a painstaking process coined rotoscoping (Conditt, 2018). Rotoscoping involved animators standing atop a glass desk and tracing over a projection of a live actor frame- by-frame (Conditt, 2018). The end result would be actors or animals’ hand drawn form in a fluid like movement not obtainable otherwise. Though a time-consuming method, it helped Disney obtain its strong presence in the animation world. In 1959, a well-known animator, Lee Harrison III, started experimenting with analog circuits and cathode ray tubes as shown in Figure 1 (Conditt, 2018). Early computer technology was ill equipped to handle complex images, but this opened up the opportunity for basic form capture on a CRT monitor (Conditt, 2018). Exciting innovations that were implemented in aerospace technology in 1969 paved the way for camera image processing we see today. Motion capture first became apparent in the life science market in the late 1970’s (Duffy, 2020). Early adoption for these were intended for gait analysis (Duffy, 2020). This involved a combination of early sensors, computer monitors and cameras (Colyer et. Al, 2018). For a long time in biomechanics research, the process involved manual digitizing of information from photographs. This was a time-consuming task and is susceptible to subjective error (Colyer et. Al, 2018). Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 4 The Precision guidance and navigation via a gyroscope-based inertial measurement unit (IMU) was a new technology that contributed to the success of Apollo manned lunar landing on July 16, 1969 (Tazartes, 2014). Gyroscopic technology was founded by the gyrocompass, which uses a single-axis gyro to hold a fixed orientation towards true north developed by Elmer Sperry. (Barbour & Schmidt, 2001). This was the first ability for electronic devices to tell its positioning no matter what orientation the object it is attached to is moving in. By the 80’s camera imaging technology was present enough for the development of standard “mocap suits” in the film industry (Wetztein, 2019). The first mocap suits were grey with black and white dots to aid in post processing and placing of joint locations (Wetztein, 2019). Moving to current landscape of this product space, we now see wireless and minimalization of IMU (Inertial Measurement Unit) sensors which combines gyroscopic technology with accelerometers + magnetometers (Wetztein, 2019). These can be placed anywhere on the body by bands or adhesive and can offer real time simulation. Technology to this caliber is difficult to obtain and use accurately. Product Environment A significant reason that there is such a barrier to entry to high quality, accurate motion capture is due to the large open space it requires. Three identified arena requirements are displayed in Figure 2 for optical motion capture. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 5 PROFESSIONAL OPEN STUDIO SPACE MULTIPLE CAMERAS+ MARKERS POST PROCESSING CPU+ SOFTWARE Figure 2 Images of motion capture space requirements. State of the art systems involve up to 18 cameras mounted around a room. A simple obstruction free space of 12 meters x 12 meters is recommended for initial product systems (Colyer et. Al, 2018). For a student athlete or high school coach operating in multipurpose shared spaces this limits the ability to obtain accurate readings. Even if the space is acquired, algorithmic software programs and post processing abilities need to exist to extract useful data (Colyer et. Al, 2018). Figure 3 NBA 2k digital asset creation. Figure 3 displays the use of free unobstructed space, multiple surrounds near infrared cameras and mocap suits with markers used for NBA 2K motion capture (Motion Capture, 2017). It is evident that relevant motions for the athlete using these parameters are able to be captured, but at Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 6 the expense that is not obtainable for the intended user. In moving forward with the thesis direction, a goal of reducing the footprint and requirements of the space that the mocap will perform in will be critical to the success of the project. Product Success Understanding what makes a successful wearable product is a critical first step to this project. Many product releases in the wearable technology market have failed for similar reasons. Outside of a research lab, or movie studio, wearables fit into this “fashnology” category. Where the technology of it, useability, and seamlessness is important but so is the aesthetic (Adapa, Siau & Smith, 2018). This is directly applicable to our target user who is an athlete and is concerned with appearance during training. In a study completed by the International Journal of Human- Computer interaction data was collected from 25 individuals at a Midwestern technological research university on their interaction with sport tracking wearable devices. It was found that attitude, which was correlated to behavioral intention was driven by perceived ease of use, and perceived usefulness (Adapa, Siau & Smith, 2018). There were additional factors that took into account vanity and need for uniqueness but were not as strongly correlated to behavior as perceived enjoyment (Adapa, Siau & Smith, 2018). In the conclusion of the study results were summed up through the statement: “Wearable devices need to become more intimately connected to our daily lives while combining collaboration, computation, and context awareness in order to enhance personal productivity.” (Adapa, Siau & Smith, 2018). Combining the understanding of wearables, and what it takes for proper adoption, it can then be compared to the goals needed to be achieved through these product offerings. The apparel Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 7 created will need to visually communicate the function, while still having an approachable useability. The point of the thesis exploration is to enhance personal performance through proper training, so the usefulness case is strong. Ultimately, the product will need to aid in more accurate, on the spot, proper body positioning capture and feedback. The proof of concept at the end of the project will be through athlete/user feedback of tactile and visual elements as well as trials comparing alternative’s apparel/technology. JOBS TO BE DONE HOW MIGHT WE ... DECREASE BARRIERS FOR ENTRY BUILD MORE -~-- ADD PRODUCT ACCURATE TO ENHANCE TECHNOLOGY CURRENT TECHNOLOGY IMU· MARKER-LESS NON OPTIC MOCAP SUIT· INFRARED CAMERA OPTIC PIEZOELECTRIC NON OPTIC ING/ ALGO- RITHMS Figure 4 Jobs to be done chart- Motion Capture. In initial exploration of how motion capture could be improved with in this project scope a jobs to be done tree was built out as represented in Figure 4. Two clear pathways to improving the Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 8 mocap product space were identified as increasing the accuracy of the product or decreasing the barriers for entry. On the left side of the chat, improving accuracy could be approached through developing more technology, or adding product to current technology. The right side of the chart started a deeper exploration of what barriers are currently existing in this space. Two clear issues involved the usability, requiring education on high end technology and the accessibility given the large capital investments and narrow sizing these machines/ suits encompass. While this exploration identified many pathways to explore improving motion capture, finding a solution that utilizes methods to improve accuracy along side methods to decrease barriers for entry would render the most successful end product. Product User Research Optimization Accessibility Figure 5 Identified areas of focus with in mocap relevant to user. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 9 Apture Apparel is a concept aimed to target three areas of motion capture as laid out in Figure 5. The intended user will have a need for personal, or scientific positional feedback, optimization of form, and lower capital than research labs and pro athletes. Because of the goals that apture apparel is aiming to solve there are two avenues of intended use that is relevant to this space. The first being the student athletes and their coaches. This applies at both an elite high school and college level where they face limited dedicated physical space, and low provided funding. Through this market Apture Apparel could reduce the barriers for young athletes to get real time performance feedback. A second area of intent with Apture Apparel is sports science education. As the field increases in complexity, having tools available for beginning biomechanics and performance optimization exploration is key for entry to the field. There are promising opportunities for implementation in University & High School physics classes. The collection will have both a men’s and women’s fit, and for exploration of thesis work the focus will be on throwing a baseball. The application of the technology ultimately not limited to one particular sport application. The wearable market has seen astounding growth trends that are forecasted to continue for the next 10 years already. As illustrated in Figure 6 below, the current motion capture market as of 2019 reports was $144 million USD in revenue annually. (3D Motion Capture Market Size, 2019). Over the next 6 years the market is Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 10 anticipated to grow at an impressive 10.09% CAGR from 2019 to 2026 to put the anticipated revenue at $266 million USD by 20206. (3D Motion Capture System Market worth $266 million by 2025, 2020). GLOBAL 30 MOTION CAPTURE IIN MILLIONS ANNUALLY) INDUSTRY GROWTH projected to reach USO 266.4 Mill by 2026, growing CAGR of 10.09% from 2019 to 2026 SPORTS RESEARCH The largest market share is forecasted to be in the optical capture space for medical/ biomechanics research. Figure 6 Forecasted mocap/ sports research market estimates. While the market in whole does included avenues such as film, and 3D gaming asset the primary user of this technology is the biomechanics research industry. (Colyer et. Al, 2018). Motion capture is an essential tool in multiple facets of sports science not limited to biomechanics including sports injury rehabilitation, training and sports performance. The importance of mocap technology is reaffirmed by the increasing number of governing bodies in sport seeking to standardize the various sports performance analysis technologies available to player, coaches and teams. FIFA, a strong governing body in sport announce new global standards for electronic performance and tracking systems (EPTS) (Changing the game, 2020). The goal is to ensure the highest quality bar is set, and to offer education and guidance to users in data capture, output and use practice (Changing the game, 2020). With large forces creating incentive, equity and standardization this will aid in the growth of the sport specific motion capture industry. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 11 Athlete Positions & Biomechanics The direction of this capstone project is very exploratory in that there is not a single identifiable set of athlete’s problems to solve. The goal of the project is to push the field and technology as far as possible with the goal to improve accuracy and accessibility. There are basic principles of technical sportswear that have not been well executed in competitor products. Athlete mobility, and thermo-regulation will need to be at the forefront of design. Due to the nature of camera processing, there is a high probability the apparel will have to cover the whole torso and limbs. As an athlete is in motion increasing body heat, when they would usually take off layers, this will pose a threat to comfort (Romero, 2020). For purposes of the 7-month project, it has been decided to focus efforts on one athlete use case for design, testing and validation. As the apparel aims to work to enhance existing camera technology, it has been identified that, repeatable movements with known correct biomechanics will be the best example to test proof of concept with. Within the scope of the thesis project the focus will be on one case that required identification of whole-body position relative to itself and the ground and a second that narrows down to analyzing a single joint angle. If the product success is reliant on versatility, then this is critical. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 12 '' H run H lean SF CF 7 y· L x Figure 7 Angles and biomechanics of the Fosbury flop high jump. High jump is a sport where the axis of the body at different points of the motion is critical to the success of the jump (Leite, 2013). The sport is often not analyzed but required very specific and unique mechanics that provides an interesting use case for the project. Several stages of jump could be analyzed including the axis of lean on the run up, or shoulder position at time of take- off. Examples of these angles are demonstrated in Figure 7 (Leite, 2013). This requires a wholistic approach to motion capture as the body as an entirety will need to be collected. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 13 • BASKETBALL JUMP SHOT Monitor angle of inferior limbs during jump preparation. Angle of elbow during upward fl ight and at release. Figure 8 Stages of the basketball shot. Figure 9 Load and effort during a basketball shot. In contrast to high jump, shooting a basketball involved areas of the body that can be isolated and analyzed (Kothekar, 2013). Specifically, the angle of the elbow joint as seen in Figures 8 & 9. Research has shown that having an angle of 90 degrees in the upward phase of the arm during a shot is most optimal for proper arc and release (Okazaki, 2012). Being able to compare collecting form of a narrow part of the body will be a useful exercise in determining versatility to the user when compared to a high jump. A second consideration in this field after the sport use cases have been identified is the type of form data that needs to be collected in order to analyze this specified mechanics. State of the art product generally captures either 3D form (volume) or joint locations using markers (Colyer, Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 14 Evans, Cosker. Et al. 2018). The film industry as well as sport digital asset creation will generally need volume involved. Whereas typical biomechanical research labs generally only need to know the relative position of joints (Colyer, Evans, Cosker. Et al. 2018). The following are methods of capture available: - ----J~, -------- • 1 Figure 10 Poseable skeleton model. “Bones” of a specified length are connected at joints, and rotation of the bones around these joints allows the skeleton to be posed. The skeleton model is commonly utilized in both marker- based motion capture and computer vision-based motion capture systems (Sarto, 2019) Figure 11 Sum of Gaussian body model. A skeleton (left) forms the foundation of the model, providing limb-lengths and body pose. The body is given volume and appearance information through the use of 3D Spatial Gaussians Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 15 arranged along the skeleton (Colyer, Evans, Cosker. Et al. 2018). This allows flexibility in the animation to be fit to image data needed. Figure 12Skinned Multi-Person Linear Model (SMPL). Using this model there is no explicit skeleton. Instead, the surface of a person is represented by a mesh of triangles (Colyer, Evans, Cosker. Et al. 2018). A set of parameters can be used which allows the shape of the model to be changed from a neutral mean (left) to a fatter (middle) or thinner, taller, for purposes of animation (Colyer, Evans, Cosker. Et al. 2018). In terms of sport data collecting, this is the type of form needed to take anthropometric data and capture muscle volume. Figure 13 Silhouette on the right from chroma keying the image on the left. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 16 The silhouette model is rudimentary in comparison modern technology but can be effective for certain use cases (Colyer, Evans, Cosker. Et al. 2018). With only the silhouette, it is not possible to infer if the mannequin is facing towards or away from the camera – ambiguity causes issues in analyzing forms but is a very accessible mode of capture (Colyer, Evans, Cosker. Et al. 2018). For the purposes of capturing a basketball shot and high jump form/ position more information than silhouettes would be needed for the high jump, however silhouettes could work for basketball angling. Volume data is not needed for either sport to analyze form, so these tradeoffs will be taken into account when moving forward with the project. Relevant Product Space & Anatomy Within the motion capture market space there are several major components of systems that expand beyond product that is worn on the body. These include: the camera systems that are used, the representation of the human body, the image features used and the algorithms used to determine the parameters of the body model (Colyer, Evans, Cosker. Et al. 2018). These are all categories that are of importance to understand and reference as the project continues. There are several stand out products that exist in the optical camera market from Vicon (reference Figure 14), used widely across sport motion capture and biomechanics labs, this product is an aspiration product to the target user (Vantage: Cutting Edge Flagship Camera by Vicon, 2020). While can influence the product direction, the focus on product researches for purposes of this paper was put on relevant products geared towards and accessible audience and understanding what accuracy and features these posed. This breakdown is seen in Figure 15. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 17 Figure 14 State of art optic technology: Vicon. 5Mx5MRoom 8V5 Cameras 8.5mmlense 623nm (visible) wavelength Recommended configuration for athlete movement, biomechanics analysis . High-Speed mode expanding capabilities 1070 FPS Windowing enables your camera to speed up by narrowing the field of view, ensuring incredible fidelity while tracking high-velocity subjects Onboard sensors, Infrared LEDs, and a digital display provides system status and feedback onboard accelerometer, detect when a camera has become misaligned and re-calibrate it Takes the two-dimensional data from each camera, on body markers time-of-flight triangulation combining it with calibration data to reconstruct the equivalent digital motion in three dimensions Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 18 Figure 15 Accessible motion capture competitor overview. RELEVANT PRODUCT LANDSCAPE PRODUCT CLASSIFICATION COST PURPOSE USE REQUIREMENTS SIZES COMPONENTS Entry leve l IMU Wi fi Connectio n, Mens and 19 sensors in the technology. mot i on software Womens Small- suit f abric ROKOKO I I NON OPTICAL Mobility+ ease of to download Large zipped up in $2500 use post movement pockets. Power IMU bank. Garment housi ng. Middle range Wifi Connection, Mens and Individual ly so ld accuracy in Mus- somaxis app Womens sensors, appa rel cles (sEMG), Heart SOMAXIS I NON OPTICAL $250 X- Smal l- w/ Velcro pock-(EKG), Brain (EEG), +apparel , more I PER senors for more X-Large et s, included CRICKET IMU Posture (Gyr), SENSOR Respi ration (Ace) accu racy app integration . and Movement (Ace) State of ar t sui t for Markers, mocap Mens and Individual ly so ld mobility and com- camera envi ron - Womens sensors, appa rel QUALYSIS OPTICAL fort to integrate $499 ment, software X- Smal l- w/ Velcro pock-with infrared Q-MOCAP ADJACENT markers and camera for post analysis X-Large et s, inc luded techno logy app integration. SUIT Video analysis Smart phone with N/A App with solution that camera, laptop or prebuilt a lgo- OPTICAL $60 allows users t o DART FISH I I desk top app for r i thms and CAMERA ANNUALLY captu r e & analyze increased assess- edit ing capabili- footage on a ment fea tures t i es t o overlay rudime ntary level on video. -- -- Creates 30 forms Compu t er N/A Proj ects an infrared I at Low - Cost and attachment, MICROSOFT laser pattern I reasonable accu- pre - bought o r camera creat ing KINNECT OPTICAL $399 racy ( .19m at 7.5 self made 3- 0 map by measur- CAMERA m2) programmi ng, ing deformations in post image the reference processing pattern Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 19 State of the art Materials & Manufacturing The breakdown of relevant materials and manufacturing is taken from the lens of product that is going on body. Suits and stick-on infrared reflectors are used frequently to improve the accuracy of capture through integrating with camera technology, or housing sensor IMU sensors (Aouf, 2019). After looking at several major players, and the story of how the company was founded, it is evident that many of these product solutions originated from a tech background, not focused on soft goods or apparel. This was a key insight that was supported in the research of materials and manufacturing. Figure 16 below breaks down the material component of standard state of art mocap suits, it is noted there is a lack of use of innovative technologies in the apparel industry (Polymersoluntions.com, 2014). Typical ranges of material composition rely heavily on polyester (60%), Nylon (35%), Spandex (5%) (Yang, Zhou, Ma, P., 2019). BODY Poly/ nylon/ spandex blend knit . Offers mobility, sweat wicking, breathability of suit. MARKER Medical grade polymer(latex free) with bonded velcro. Hypoallergenic. Allows for bending to specific location sites on the body. REFLECTOR Plastic sphere coated in retro-reflective paint ((0.1 to 1mm) round , highly transparent glass beads) illuminated with infrared LED. GRAPHICS Non-Water Soluble Ink via sublimation, heath transfer or sew on vinyl graphics. Figure 16 Competitor product material identification. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 20 Further exploration into how these materials are used to produce the garments further supported the identification of lack of technology used in the apparel (Yang, Zhou, Ma, P., 2019). Tricot knitting structures were commonly found across the suits, this is a structure that is standard in base layer athletic apparel. Construction of even newly released state of art mocap suits used questionable seam construction for longevity and practicality of the garment. It has been found that visible seams moving during capture can create issues for post processing and data collection. (Glaeser, et al, 2018). These details are called out in Figure 17 below. Mocap Suit Body Graphics Suit Construction Markers Tri cot structure knit on Large format HP KARL MAYAR industrial sublimation printer prints ISO 503 Stitch Blind Hem Injection molded with an tricot knitting machine directly on knit and allows stitch on Brother Industrial integrated base. This thin for engineered pattern Grade square base can be placement on the body & 607 Flatlock on configured to any shape Speedway Industrial post molding . Figure 17 Standard competitor product construction. Graphic directions on these products are widely sublimation print post fabric construction. Makers using injection molding and Velcro have been standard across multiple types of suits and interfaces and have largely not seen change in the last decade (Glaeser, et al. 2018). Assessment of these methods have left recognized opportunity for improvement in seamless integration. Explorations into more functional integrated graphics, yarn plating and specified areas of garment tension to reduce movement of fabric could be useful. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 21 Utility patent landscape The utility patent landscape has proven to be one that is difficult to navigate. There are a lot of players in this space, many of whom are creating concepts for technology they don’t know how they will use yet. It is critical to the success and longevity of the thesis project that the project space is clear of direct competitors who have funding and resources and recourses not available to this project. Several prior art examples exist in the space of fully integrating piezoelectric technology for real time joint movement analysis as seen in Figure 18 and 19 below. FIG. 28 Figure 18 US20160338621A1, Devices for measuring human gait and related methods of use. “A portable multi-component measurement and analysis device -feedback may be provided in real time on the bio-mechanical and gait parameters experienced by the user's body while performing any particular activity”. (US20160338621A1, Devices for measuring human gait and related methods of use). Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 22 Figure 19 US10321873B2, Smart clothing for ambulatory human motion capture. “Ambulatory mocap: an article of clothing; electromagnetic energy emitter/receiver; a helical stretching electromagnetic energy pathway. Motion of the body joint stretches and/or bends the pathway, and wherein stretching and/or bending of the pathway changes the flow of electromagnetic energy from the emitter to the receiver; and a data processor to analyzes changes in the flow & measure motion of the body joint.” (US10321873B2, Smart clothing for ambulatory human motion capture) While these technologies are outside of the realm of accessibility that this thesis is aiming towards obtaining, this is the future of state of the real time motion capture that is critical to be aware of. Prior art was not found for apparel that aims to work with existing technology, whether it be optical or non- optical oriented. This is a positive finding, in helping to identify a true opportunity to create product to aid in the accuracy of accessible technology. Graphic Direction Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 23 Color and graphics in the mocap space has been primarily driven by function, with little attention to trend or perceived aesthetics. Progression of color and graphics used in mocap suits through the film and digital asset industry is displayed in Figure 20. Figure 20 Graphics and colors used for enhanced motion and volume capture in the film industry. Initial graphics used black and white square rings that allowed animators to manually match up squares to the form in post processing. Avatar, one of the most advanced CGI animation films of its decade explored removing some of this manual process through image processing of RGB to locate correct sides of the body (Sarto, 2019). In the last 6 years more complex geometries have been implemented and is often combined with RGB markers (Sarto, 2019). A generative triangular repeat pattern is currently used as state-of-the-art mocap suits and has decreased editing time and allowed for real time 3D form monitoring while filming (Sarto, 2019). As part of the project scope, the intent is to explore different pattern options, analyze why RGB, and triangular geometries have made improvements to assess where it can be pushed farther. Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities & Threats Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 24 STRE WEAK OPPOR THR NOTH NESS TUNITV EAT GROWTH OF SUPPORTING COMPUTER SCIENCE LIMITATIONS NON · APPAREL FOCUS COMPETITION RAPIDLY CHANGING SPACE INDUSTRY RELEVANCY OF APPLICATION ATHLETE ADOPTION LACK OF AFFORDABLE ACCURACY INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY Figure 21 Overview of strengths, weaknesses, opportunities & threats in mocap industry Selection of the thesis project topic was influenced by trends in the industry and opportunities that were recognized. In assessing the strengths of the motion capture market there were two leading factors identified in Figure 21. The growth of supporting industries, outside of sport motion research and training is contributing significant capital to funding the development of technology in this space (Rydén, 2019). Several examples include the movie/ film industry, animation, gaming, and virtual reality. The video gaming industry alone spends millions of dollars on creation of digital assets, many of which start at the motion capture/scanning phase (Rydén, 2019). A second contributing factor in mocap apparel is the relevancy of application. While Mocap has been utilized in biomechanics research there is the opportunity to bridge this technology to an everyday user. Someone without a science degree, or large capital who wants to monitor form with relative accuracy compared to what is on the market. The opportunity to expand mocap to a new consumer is a strong direction to lead in. While there is confidence in the strength of the industry and growth it is critical to draw attention to weaknesses in the field. No matter how many promising ideas exist, there are still limitations in place based on where technology is at. Within the scope of the project, I understand areas of weakness will exist in personal understanding of computer science principles. The ability for the Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 25 apparel designed will be reliant on working seamlessly with existing technology, or getting technology codded and developed. This poses a significant threat to the ability to prove concept and will be monitored consistently. A second point to address is the athlete adoption rate. While the purpose of the product exploration it to make accurate motion capture more accessible, there is still risk associated with user experienced (Adapa, et al. 2018). Getting the intended user to purchase and wear the product is only a small portion of the hurdle when compared to getting easy to use and interpret data. Integration on the user end will be a consideration as the project progresses through the ideation and design process. Opportunity exists in the motion capture apparel space due to the current player’s strengths and lack of options. Upon examaning many of competitor products and companies, it was found that they have been primarily founded by a computer engineering team (Colyer, et al. 2018). What was not observed was a strong foundational idea that sparked from a technical apparel minded individual. It is seen in mocap suits that there is very little innovation and functional design elements implemented. The secondary importance placed on the apparel, with the focus being on the camera technology surrounding leaves immense space for improvement. By taking an approach focused on the apparel aiding in technology, not the other way around, the barrier to obtainability could be reduced. Currently accurate options will run the user over $20,000 USD (Vantage: Cutting Edge Flagship Camera by Vicon, 2020). Even at this price range it takes an experienced user who understands a program to gather the 3D forms and extract useable data. Two clearly identified threats to the project space have been identified through the research. First, this is a rapidly changing product space. What is capable with technology is constantly changing, this creates issues of quick product obsoletion. Through my R&D process it will be Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 26 necessary to be aware of what is up and coming to design for the longest lasting product possible. One factor that complicated this process that has been identified as a secondary threat in Figure 21 is the amount of work in this space that is under utility patent and may not be public access. There is a level of risk working in a space knowing companies are also exploring similar concepts simultaneously. As a student project direction however, this is a strong place for it to be to display the understanding relevancy of the topic area. Project Scope & Alignment With an undergraduate degree focused in apparel, I came into the program with the hope of exploring footwear and diversifying my skills. Through the course of doing so I found that my interests really remained in the apparel field. However, my eyes were opened to the variety of technology and innovative principles that existed in this space. Additionally, I noticed areas where innovation was lacking, and left room for improvement. My strengths lie in pushing technology in the apparel workflow and I wanted to have this concept be at the forefront of my thesis topic. The exploration of motion capture apparel is related directly to how apparel can work as a tool to support technology. Through product innovation in the last 15 years, these roles have primarily been flipped in that technology has been a tool to support apparel creation. I have a strong background in 3D apparel creation and have been using it as a tool in my design process since undergrad. I have since built upon this skill by learning how to use a 3D body scanner and analyze body measurements to accuracy levels of 1mm. (3D Object Scanner Artec Eva). My experiences in these areas have helped keep me up to date on state of art workflows. Having an innovative design process that allows for iteration based on data is key to the type of Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 27 work I want to be doing, and I now have the skills to do so. This project for me is a natural progression on my interests in the 3D space and incorporating movement. I have a strong foundation with technical fabrics and will be utilizing my understands of textiles to propose innovative solutions. Many teams working in the motion capture space are started from a tech background, rather than having foundational apparel be the heart of the project. Because of this, I will have a unique approach to solving problems in this space that puts the focus on the apparel and its relationship to the moving body and cameras capturing it. My goal in pursing this thesis pathway is to reiterate my ability to execute aesthetic, technical sports apparel and prove my ability to push the industry and think outside of the box. In my body of work up to date, I have several strong apparel design projects with solid research. However, I do not feel I have projects that would be able to speak to tech or innovation positions. The intent is to position myself for a variety of apparel applications that may be outside of what a traditional apparel inline product job would look like. This project deeply integrates an understanding of wearable/ technology as related to body motion capture. This forces me to look outside of the apparel industry for interdisciplinary expertise. This is the same kind of team dynamic I could expect in an innovation or technology role. The project will challenge me to work with ambiguity, and a non-linear process to the solution as I try different validation methods. While one year ago the possibilities of where I saw myself felt very narrow, this is no longer the case. Job pathways that I am seeking out post-graduation range. These include, but are not limited to: Wearables (medical, sport applications), Sport apparel innovation/ material innovation Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 28 (Nike, Under Armour), tech companies (Google, Facebook, Microsoft), technical outerwear (Snow peak, North Face), Women’s apparel (Athleta). By focusing on how apparel can seamlessly integrate with both a moving body and technology my portfolio will become stronger for these desired roles. Mentor Mapping Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 29 Phase 2 Testing & Ideation Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 30 Introduction After identifying a clear gap in the market, it was critical to begin to assess what the project wants to be obtaining and how it will be executed. Through phase 2 of the project, a detailed breakdown of what current options is will be provided along with the strengths and weaknesses to help define opportunity. From there primary testing will be conducted to gather baseline and user information. This will allow for a final path to take for Apture Apparel to have the biggest impact on the product space and user performance. Ideation will commence i Detailed SWOT Analysis Benchmark product Figure 24 Optitrack Motion Capture Suit Optitrack Motion Capture Suit Sizing: Alpha S-XL Unisex fit Price: $289 USD Material: 90 Nylon 10 Spandex Blend Tricot Knit. Anti-microbial finish Features: Elastic Waist Band for secured fit Antimicrobial Highly breathable Exceptional freedom of movement and comfort over long recording sessions Included Velcro cap Velcro attachment to shoes Compatible with Optitrack x-markers making them near impossible to knock off • Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 31 Components Knit Onsie Closure/ entrance method Securement to keep suit in place (Velcro straps) (Motion capture suits, n.d) Areas for Improvement [Aesthetic] sportswear can be worn reasonable outside of a lab environment [Visual Joint Recognition] for manual video analysis [Secured Fit/ Positioning] around joints to remain in place facilitating accuracy SWOT Aesthetic Knit Body Closure/ Entrance Securement to keep suit Method in place Strengths High content of spandex Method to get in and out Thumb loops is pretty allows for great mobility. is intuitive, durable easy standard in the athletic Simple silhouette, single to use. Zipper is Low industry, effectively piece garment helps profile. keeps the sleeves from pieces not get lost, creates riding up. Velcro loops a one and done option for that hook under the motion tracking. shoes function to keep the pants from riding up with a low profile. Weaknesses Unisex fit does not Zipper feels old school. Velcro loops are a provide a universal CF placement becomes rudimentary option to solution, size chart leaves and eye sore. keep the pant legs a lot of room for question Mobility/comfort could down. Do not visually as to what sizes be an issue as the communicate sport, individuals should buy individual’s torso bends performance, fashion which leads to unflattering over. which are all important fits. The Onesie silhouette qualities to the user. is not a style that would be The Velcro under the widely worn during sport foot would not work practice outside of a lab for true sport environment. Materials + performance as it seams are not very would inhibit technologically advanced. functionality of the Does not offer any footwear. abilities to enhance markerless motion capture. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 32 Patterning visually indicates menswear despite being unisex. Opportunities Applying activewear trend Straying from the Opportunities exist to concepts will improve the traditional one piece explore integrated wearability of the creates opportunities to solutions to keep the garment. Current design use multiple garments, suit in place with the offers no solution to eliminating long bulky design of the main markerless motion capture zippers. body/ more specific fit technology development, that would create a or any uses with more seamless accessible mocap aps. aesthetic Taking these into consideration moving forward creates a wide- open market space. Threats Moving away from a one Taking away a onesie A more complicated piece- unisex body approach with long solution would not be a construction creates a zippered entrance may one and done solution. need for a non-unisex fit, disturb the expectation of Iteration and testing more sizes/skews. motion capture apparel, would need to be done. may not communicate that is it mocap apparel. Visual Joint Recognition Knit Body Closure/ Entrance Securement to keep Method suit in place Strengths Velcro offers options for Closure method does not Securement method attaching separate directly inhibit visual does not directly inhibit markers at joint locations joint recognition. visual joint recognition. Weaknesses This solution is intended Closure method does not Securement method for optical motion facilitate visual joint does not facilitate capture- not a markerless recognition. visual joint recognition. option which is where the industry is heading and trying to achieve. Manual placement of markers repeatedly lends room for human error. Could be hard to determine accurate joint location through the mocap suit. This solution is not Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 33 feasible to wear during sport. Opportunities Create graphics already Eliminating intrusive Eliminating intrusive integrated into the body closure methods create securement (i.e Velcro of the fabric at joint opportunity to have loops) methods create locations that a person or marking/ graphics/ opportunity to have computer program can functionality there that marking/ graphics/ easily recognize that area was originally being functionality there that doesn’t involve Velcro occupied. area was originally markers being occupied. Thumb loops have opportunity to have graphic call out to wrist location. Threats Graphics need to be Having no closure Having no Velcro visually appealing yet method requires knit- this loops for the clearly indicate specific lends potential issue to securement method joint location from serval graphic disruption if knit requires knit- this lends potential filming angles garments are stretched potential issue to which proposes a design without recovery graphic disruption if problem to solve overtime- will need to be knit garments are tested and addressed. stretched without recovery overtime- will need to be tested and addressed. Secured Fit/ Positioning Knit Body Closure/ Entrance Securement to keep suit Method in place Strengths Spandex knit offers a Closure method allows Securement method forgiving fit for multiple the garment to be one ensures the garment is variations of body types piece and form fitting. covering the ankle and with in a single alpha size. wrist joints. Weaknesses Single knit structure Closure method does not Securement method creates only one level of directly facilitate secured does minimal to retain tension/compression that fit to retain joint joint positioning over is not unique to the shape positioning over anatomical joint of the body/ joint at that anatomical joint locations. Velcro loops location. locations. Zipper only and finger holes only allows the garment to not keep the garment limbs fall off of the body but from sliding up but does not keep the does not keep the garment from moving garment from moving independently to the independently to the body. body in middle Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 34 locations of extremities. Opportunities Creating engineered Eliminating closure Utilizing a knit tension/ shaping and needs create more structure with higher multiple levels of flexibility in knit elongation between elongation/ linearity structures using circular secured knit structures within the knit structure knitting. at the joint location can can allow for a more help isolate these areas precise fit. and retain accuracy despite discrepancies in sizes of individuals. Threats Creates a more expensive/ Ease of entry of garment Accounting for the solution with potential with higher structured/ differences in distances durability issues that tension areas would need between joint locations/ would need to be to be addressed. distances between addressed. individuals. After assessing the features of the state-of-the-art motion capture suit it became clear that the garment construction and materials were overlooked in the development process and that it is not a garment that would function for an athlete outside of a clinic environment. This reaffirms the opportunity for a garment that is not limited to a high end indoor testing environment and does not inhibit athlete performance. Testing Plans A. Introduction and Background Form is a critical part of athlete success in a given sport activity. Elite athletes around the world utilize state of art research labs to record data, perfect form and optimize performance. An opportunity lies in bringing rudimentary forms of this technology to younger athletes to begin to implement into their training. During high school, athletes’ bodies are changing rapidly, and it takes time for them to develop high awareness for their bodies positioning. For individuals hoping to go to the next level with their sport utilizing visualization tools to assess their form can make a Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 35 critical difference in making it to collegiate level or not. When it comes to understanding of biomechanics, and funding to acquire technology to utilizing state of art motion capture technology is no longer a feasible goal. Understanding how to utilize existing programming in entry level product obtainable to this market will be key to a successful product. Part 1: Anthropometric Data Collection B. Specific Aims/Study Objectives The aims/objectives for the proposed study, include to understand: - What is the standard variation of distances between major joint/ bone marker locations for a set of individuals that wear the same alpha size sports garments? This will inform assessment of how to ensure visual markings end up over the correct area of the body regardless of body proportion variation within one size. - What are the circumferences around the joint anchoring locations? This will give a baseline for creating averages of sizing and helping to assess proper amount of compression. - What are the circumferences parallel to the joint circumference on either side of the joint? This will inform differences in sizing that can help secure this section of the garment around the joint. - What are the major circumference body measures? This will be compared to the sizing chart to ensure they fit within the alpha sizing. (Refer to figure 25 for points of measure) C. Methods, Materials and Analysis METHODOLOGY Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 36 Subjects of Study: Subjects of study were chosen from a base scan set based off of their bust waist and hip measurements fitting within the sample size range. Anonymity of subjects will be maintained through presentation of findings. Timing: The study does not require timing of external space or subjects and will be done on the researcher’s time alone. Figure 25 Anthroscan Measures Diagram Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 37 Phase of Procedure Data Collected Timing Study Subject Open up scans from files NONE NA Selection and take initial planar measurements of Bust, Waist Hip to compare to size charts Data Run Automatic Subject Height – Recorded NA Collection Measurements in Antroscan in Excel (Researcher to gather Height, base working in distance information Anthroscan) Using the Plane feature Bust Circumference- NA create planes at the subjects Recorded in Excel Bust then pull the measurement from cut plane using the tape measure style measurement. Repeat with under bust, Under bust, waist, high hip, NA waist, high hip, hip, thigh hip, thigh 1’’ below crotch 1’’ below crotch. circumference – Recorded in Excel Use marker feature and None NA mark CF of the body at the collar bone. Repeat marker tool with None NA outer patella, outer ankle, outer hip crease, center elbow, wrist joint, (acromion) shoulder bone. Take distance Joint distance measurements NA measurements contouring x 5 – Recorded in Excel along body according to diagram above: ankle to knee, knee to hip crease. Wrist to elbow, elbow to acromion, acromion to CF. Repeat with 20 Males and All of the above x 40 – NA 20 Female subjects Recorded in Excel Post Data After tracking all data in None NA Collection excel, look through numbers and identify any large outliers that do not reasonably make sense with Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 38 the subject re-measure that subject. Otherwise toss the number before calculating findings. Data will be saved to a disk along the data collection process. MATERIALS REQUIRED Due to using previous scan files, space, garment, and equipment needs have been minimized. 1. Anthroscan Program+ PC computer compatible with Anthroscan Part 2: Video Tracking D. Specific Aims/Study Objectives The aims/objectives for the proposed study, include to understand: - What is the baseline amount of angle slippage the program experiences? This will create a benchmark for me compare alternative options to. - How does slippage of different geometrical patterns compare to one another? - How does slippage of different organic patterns compare to one another? - How does slippage of localized pattern placement vs full leg placement compare to one another? E. Methods, Materials and Analysis METHODOLOGY Subjects of Study: One subject will be used for all of the trials for efficiency and to remove variables of individual mechanics and body shape. Subject will be provided test leggings, base tank top, but will wear their own preferred undergarments. Timing: The study should take course over 2 days to allow for sufficient rest time between sessions so that fatigue is not a factor in the repetitions. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 39 Phase of Procedure Data Collected Timing Study Subject Ask individual to participate NONE NA Recruitment in study Workspace Prepare open space with None Prior to prep solid color bottom and back subject drop. Apply tape where the arriving subject should put their feet, set up camera and tripod. Data Subject gets briefed on what Subject Height, Waist, Hip 5 minutes Collection they need to do (what the Measurement- recorded in (Subject is at repeated motion is, how to excel. the workspace) stand, how it will be captured) Subject Changes into None 3 minutes legging condition 1 (wears black tank top) Data Subject stands on dots on Video is captured 1 minutes Collection the floor and competes 25 (Subject is at squat repetitions at a the workspace) consistent pace with condition 1. Subject changes into None 3 minutes legging condition 2 Subject stands on dots on Video is captured 1 minutes the floor and competes 25 squat repetitions at a consistent pace with condition 2. Subject changes into None 3 Minutes legging condition 3 Subject stands on dots on Video is captured 1 minutes the floor and competes 25 squat repetitions at a consistent pace with condition 3. Stretch- break None 10 Minutes Subject changes into None 3 minutes legging condition 4 Subject stands on dots on Video Is captured 1 minutes the floor and competes 25 squat repetitions at a consistent pace with condition 4. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 40 Subject changes into None 3 minutes legging condition 5 Subject stands on dots on Video is captured 1 minutes the floor and competes 25 squat repetitions at a consistent pace with condition 5. Day 1 Conclusion None Total: 40 Min Data Day 2 None NA Collection (Subject is at the workspace) Subject changes into None 3 min legging condition 6 Subject stands on dots on Video is captured 1 min the floor and competes 25 squat repetitions at a consistent pace with condition 6. Subject changes into None 3 min legging condition 7 Subject stands on dots on Video is captured 1 min the floor and competes 25 squat repetitions at a consistent pace with condition 7. Subject changes into None 3 min legging condition 8 Subject stands on dots on Video is captured 1min the floor and competes 25 squat repetitions at a consistent pace with condition 8. Stretch- break None 10 min Subject changes into None 3 min legging condition 9 Subject stands on dots on Video is captured 1 min the floor and competes 25 squat repetitions at a consistent pace with condition 9. Subject changes into None 3 min legging condition 10 Subject stands on dots on Video is captured 1 min the floor and competes 25 Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 41 squat repetitions at a consistent pace with condition 10. End of Data Subject changes back into None 5 min Collection original clothes, is thanked. Session Day 2 Conclusion None 45 min Post Data Video taken into Dartfish The number of repetition NA Collection video tracking software on where any slippage off of the (done by MAC. Ankle, knee and hip original assigned locations is researcher crease is marked in dartfish first observed will be separately of and automatic angle recoded. The magnitude of subject) tracking is ran through the slippage off of the original 25 repetitions assigned locations at end of 25 repetitions will be recorded. Repeat will 10 legging The number of repetition NA conditions where any slippage off of the original assigned locations is first observed will be recoded. The magnitude of slippage off of the original assigned locations at end of 25 repetitions will be recorded. X10 End Analysis Compare findings to assess None NA any patterns of graphics creating more accurate image processing following within the program. Data will be saved to a disk along the data collection process. All apparel provided to the subject, will be professionally laundered prior to wearing. MATERIALS REQUIRED Video tracking exploration will include space, apparel and technology requirements but will not require multiple subjects 1. Dartfish Program+ PC or Mac computer compatible with Dartfish 2. Baseline shorts+ tank garment 3. White floor cover + backdrop 4. Changing space 5. Black tank top Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 42 6. 10 Black athletic leggings 7. White Legging 8. White sport heat vinyl 9. Black sport heat vinyl 10. Circuit Cutter machine 11. Smart phone with high-speed video capabilities 12. Smartphone Stand Testing Results Baseline Video Tracking Trials Apture Apparel aims to create a new product opportunity and category. Because of this, sourcing true competitor products to baseline was difficult. Rather, testing went in a direction of trying to understand the image processing algorithms of existing app technology. As described in Part 2 Video Tracking Testing Plans, 10 legging patterns were created displayed in Figure 26. 'I Figure 26 Initial Pattern Prototype Exploration Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 43 Figure 27 Joint Angle Tracking in Dartfish The process to collect data utilized Dartfish motion app utilizing an automatic tracking tool. Videos of the static squat in the pattern variations were uploaded and ran as shown in Figure 27. The slippage of angle measure from the original assigned location was measured using a grid overlay and results are displayed in Figure 28. BASELit-iit-iG Fit·iDit·iGS l l 25 REPS-8.5 UNITS 25 REPS- 5 UNITS 25 REPS- 5.5 UNITS ~ ~ J~ltl~ 25 REPS- 7 UNITS 25 REPS-4.5 UNITS 25 REPS- 4. 5 UNITS 25 REPS- 3.5 UNI TS l ~ J J 25REPS-4 UNITS 25REPS-2 UNITS 25REPS-3.5UNITS 25REPS-5.SU NI TS Figure 28 Joint Angle Slippage Results Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 44 After conducting the trials, it was found that the most concentrated area of contrast, shown in the pink labeling, resulted in the least amount of slippage at 2 units (Figure 28). All graphics did result in slight improvements when compared to the shorts baseline. User Qualitative Survey Through reaching out to contacts in high school as well as high school coaches 22 athlete responses and 5 coach responses were recorded. Within these responses the sports of the athletes/ coaches varied across basketball, soccer, track & field, softball and volleyball. This created a diverse group to cover many different styles of coaching, needed form analysis and base practice brands. An overview of high-level results is displayed in Figure 29. $$ SPENT ON PRACTICE BRANDS PRACTICE APPAREL 10 8 SEtHOF.:S 87% NI KE 10 JUtHORS Ii ~l 25 % •_ UL U L E M O N 3 12% 'llZ UN O SOPHt"10F.:ES $80+ $60-80 $40-60 $20-40 12 % i\ RE NA 1 F F.: E S H t1tHi 33 O l J_ 4 DAYS PER WEEK PRACTICING 70 WI NO COACH Video Usage WATCH GAMES FROM A WHOLISTIC APPROACH , BODY LANGUAGE , POSITION ON FIELD/ COURT AppsUsed O hudl Figure 29 Infographic of Target Market Survey Results Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 45 Found results from the surveys indicate several things. First, it was important to note what athletes are currently spending on athletic practice apparel. Because Apture Apparel aims to be in the accessible range this garment should provide a new benefit to the user, but cost in the same range as other practice apparel. It was found that the majority of students were spending $80 on their pieces and buying primarily Nike. This information informed the next study in how I selected the body scans to measure. A reassuring finding through this collection was the frequency of which individuals were practicing without coach or mentor present. 33% of survey respondents were practicing over half of the week with no coach present. 100 percent of the respondents were limited in technology to smart phone capabilities (Figure 29). It became clear that the opportunity for Apture Apparel is assisting an autonomous baselining and assessment utilizing video they can take on their phone. Anthropometric Data Collection Through gathering data from 20 female and 20 male body scans average data of the circumferences and distances of major joints were collected. As displayed in Figure 29 the process involved a series of planer cross sections and marked points. f. . Figure 30 Images From Anthroscan of Process Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 46 After recording in an excel spreadsheet outliers in the data were removed and the measures averaged. Results are shown in Figure 31. Figure 31 Diagram of Anthroscan Averaged Data Points of measure labeled with “C” are measures of circumference whereas measures labeled with “D” are measures od distance between two points (Figure 31). The purpose behind this study is for fit, as the athlete’s body is in motion the garment needs to have a secure fit. Due to the nature of the product, graphically calling out joint locations it is critical that the garment does not move independently of the body. This unwanted shifting of the garment could compromise the accuracy and visual ques it is intended to provide. Interviews Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 47 Apture Apparel is aiming to combine sports apparel with entry level biomechanics and image processing. Due to this it is important to understand gaps in expertise and reaching out to experts to get feedback and validation. Through phase 2 gathering feedback and insights from industry professionals in fields outside of apparel was needed to validate the use and the visual biomechanics markings. ERIC SORENSON Department Chair Kineseology Azusa Pacific University "I love the ideas! The mark locations look good .. You are on the right track with this product." SHANNON POMEROY Design Research & Data Specialist Apple "I don't think your success is rooted in just those scenarios you laid out.. its about creating a general body awareness" EMILY KAROLIDIS University of Oregon P.H.D Biomechanics & Sports Product Design Student "You're translating between the technical science and the everyday user ... this is relevant to them because it is something they can understand" Figure 32 Profiles and Quotes of Field Experts Feedback listed in Figure 32 helped to define the opportunity for Apture Apparel. Eric Sorensen, the department chair of Kinesiology provided insights on marking locations for the body. Helpful feedback involved pushing me to consider multiple angles of markers and visibility from different planes. Another consideration that was pointed out through this conversation was the level of rotation of upper limbs and the need for potential connection points of the dots for a level of visibility form a variety of perspectives. Conversations with Shannon Pomeroy and Emily Karolidis helped define opportunities for my direction in creating a bridge between the every-day user and biomechanical clinical science. One exciting door Apture Apparel is opening Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 48 is the ability to take form feedback to the outdoors as clinical studies are limited to where their cameras can take them. Product Brief Moving towards ideation two clear goals were set for the Apture Apparel line. First, provide a visual indication of what’s going on to an everyday user to help inform productive conversations with coaches and trainers. Secondly, integrate with rudimentary video performance apps/iPhone camera to capture the body without being limited by expensive cameras or indoor environments. These two goals will be my basis for success come the end of the project. Due to limited time the line will feature these for products initially for testing purposes. 1. Women’s Tight a. Seamless Engineered Circular Knit Leg x 2 b. Knit Waist band c. During/Post knit graphics application/ dye finishing 2. Women’s Long Sleeve Top a. Seamless Engineered Circular Knit Sleeve x 2 + Bodice b. During/Post knit graphics application/ dye finishing 3. Men’s Arm Sleeve a. Yarn- Unknown b. 1 Engineered Circular Knit Sleeve c. During/Post knit graphics application/ dye finishing 4. Men’s Tight a. Yarn/ Yarns b. Knit Waist band c. During/Post knit graphics application/ dye finishing Ideation Material Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 49 Materials for the product need to function at the level of the users preferred practice apparel. This is because the product should not be inhibiting performance or causing any sort of discomfort for the athlete. Performance Goals Material That Will Solve Ideas on Where to Action Items This Source (Complete between 01/29-02-03) Compression Provide secure area of Ideal: Ideal: Research how much Knit- Anchor the garment locked -Polyester Shima Seiki a knit programmer around the joint. -Nylon Eva X Carola runs per hour. Breathable, high stretch -Lycra BYBORRE & recovery, moisture -Circular Rib knit with Email Carola. wicking. varied knit densities (made -Mill End holistically on circular -Rain Shed Email Borre (susceptible to spikes/ knitting machine) -Spandex By the Yard snagging/ friction on -Debs Connect with Jessie court or turf) (Wash -Rib Knit by the Yard -Fabric.com about Shima Seiki/ durability) (Indoor+ -Personal stores of development process Outdoor conditions) -Bemus extra Browzwear client fabrics Connect with -Cricut Heat transfer Stephanie about Vinyl (stretch or non- minimum fabric stretch will have to be quantify order for tested) certain suppliers. Main Body High elongation Ideal: Ideal: Research how much Knit- provides plenty of -Polyester Shima Seiki a knit programmer Between stretch to allow joint -Nylon Eva X Carola runs per hour. locked down areas to account for -Lycra BYBORRE zones High variations in distance -Engineered Raschel Knit Email Carola. elongation between joints. (made holistically on -Mill End Breathable, high stretch circular knitting machine) -Rain Shed Email Borre. & recovery, moisture -Spandex By the Yard wicking. -Non-Engineered Poly -Debs Connect with Jessie Spandex Sport Raschel -Fabric.com about Shima Seiki/ (susceptible to spikes/ Knit. -Personal stores of development process snagging/ friction on extra Browzwear court or turf) (Wash client fabrics Connect with durability) (Indoor+ Stephanie about Outdoor conditions) minimum fabric quantify order for certain suppliers. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 50 Knit Waist Low profile, stays in -Polyester -Mill End None. Band place, may differ for -Nylon -Rain Shed men’s and women’s -Lycra -Spandex By the Yard style. Breathable, high - Rib knit- or Interlock -Debs stretch & recovery, Knit. -Fabric.com moisture wicking. - -Personal stores of Mesh/reinforcement/Middle extra Browzwear (susceptible to spikes/ layers client fabrics snagging/ friction on court or turf) (Wash durability) (Indoor+ Outdoor conditions) Band/ Keeps sleeve/ leg in Wide Compressive circular -Mill End None. Material place from riding up or Rib knit. -Rain Shed falling down. Does not -Polyester -Spandex By the Yard dig in, cause friction or -Nylon -Debs stop any circulation. -Lycra -Fabric.com Breathable, high stretch -Circular Rib knit with -Personal stores of & recovery, moisture varied knit densities (made extra Browzwear wicking. holistically on circular client fabrics knitting machine) -Rib Knit by the Yard -Polyester -Nylon -Lycra (high content- 20- 13%) Possible Helps keep sections of -Injection molded Silicone- -Amazon Connect with Interior graphics around joints heat application -Cando Stephanie about Texture/ Grip in place without -Double Knit Interior Knit -DIY Mold, Silicone option/ samples. around Joint twisting to improper texture mix make my own location. -Perforated 1 sided and makeshift adhere -Reach out to James (Placed on the interior) adhesive heat application about flexible Does not dig in, cause -Nucleus lab 3D options friction or stop any -3D print flexible material printer circulation. Does not straight onto fabric (Could -Amazon silicone inhibit breathability, use elastic with it for time elastic for mockup stretch & recovery, being) purposes moisture wicking. Graphics + Creates visual elements Ideal: - Done through Email Carola. Color for individuals/ Integrated graphics through circular knitting programs to easily pick wholistic knit design. Email Borre. up. Must not inhibit Engineered pattern through -PortlandInk.com stretch/ breathability of pre-dyed yarns- Jacquard Local, can do full Contact Portland Ink functional performance processes. coverage sublimation. to see if they could garment. do full coverage -Sublimation graphics sublimation on knit -Circut sport heat transfer fabric. See if this -Combination of the two would be a pre or post make graphics process for them. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 51 Alternative: Swag Northwest - Portland Embroidery & Screen Printing Services -Joann’s/ Amazon for Cricut sport heat transfer (last choice) An inhibiting factor through this stage of the sourcing and material ideation process was the uncertainty surrounding whether or not circular knit will be a viable option. Through networking resources, I met a knit studio based out of the UK Eva X Carola (Eva X CAROLA, n.d.). They work in knit innovation, body mapping, functional and performance knit. An example of their work is shown in Figure 33 (Eva X CAROLA, n.d.). Figure 33 Eva x Carola Circular Knit Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 52 Eva and Carola partner with Santoni Shanghai Material Experience Center which is the method in which the materials will be produced. Phase III Design Figure 34 Aesthetic Sketching Initial ideation shown in Figure 34 illustrates initial concepting for zoning out the garment and locking system as well as the overall silhouette. The product line will include a women’s top, women’s legging, men’s tight and men’s sleeves. Long tight silhouettes allow for the most body coverage to mark the most points on the body, therefor allowing the highest amount of data capture for different movements. In understanding that my target market is high schooler, I was concerned about the early adoption rate of males within this demographic with full tight outfits. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 53 The tights to layer with sleeves allowed for flexibility off dress while still broadening the product range. Function Utilizing data collected from the anthropometric study a baseline of the circumferences of joints and average distance, as well as the variance of those distances were able to be computed. It became evident that there would need to be different properties of fabric integrated into the garment to account for reducing the movement of the garment but also the variance in height between individuals of the same alpha size. Ideation of these zoning and features are called out in Figure 35. E N V I S I O N E D O N B O D Y Z O N I N G H I G H S T R E T C H / E L O N G A T I O N J O I N T G R A P H I C L O C A T I O N S H I G H E R C O M P R E S S I O N F I N I S H E D R I B H E M Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 54 Figure 35 Knit Zone Ideation The upper left side of the image Figure 35 depicts the locations of graphical marking as identified through conversations with my expert interviews. This ideation was then overlayed with a color-coding system for knit functionality. The areas around grey surround the joints will be a more compressive knit structure to lock in these areas from shifting. The pink areas of the garments will be a knit structure with higher elongation capabilities allowing the garment stretch to fit longer and shorter limbs. Graphic The goal of compatibility with rudimentary camera/ image processing technology and the need to be able to assess a body by naked eye ensured that the color and graphic direction needed to be a core part of the solution. The color pallet for Apture Apparel was created by taking colors from different sporting environments and finding their true complementary colors (Figure 36). The reasoning behind this was derived from the video tracking simulation trials in finding that concentrated areas of contrast was the easiest for iPhone video quality trials to pick up and track. Moving forward with the product I wanted to push this concept past black and white and create an integrated solution of contrast to the environments the athletes will be operating in. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 55 Environment Color ••• ••• •• • • ••• Complementary 1 ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• Complementary 2: Hue, Value+ Saturation Figure 36 Color Exploration Through several operations within the Adobe suit I took two approaches to finding the true complementary color. One involving hue and saturation as factors while the other did not. Both of these results fed into creating my final color palette for the men’s and women’s product. One consideration that needed to be taken into account when selecting the final colors for prototypes are what yarns there are available for me to use. The factory communicated a list of yarns they have on stock, as there will not be time to source a reasonable quantity of yarn and ship it to them within the time frame, I have for the thesis project. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 56 Figure 37 Graphic Exploration Within Figure 37 initial ideations for background colors create this contrast through dark tonal colors derived from the pallets in Figure 36. The concept was intended to provoke a sense of both digital and environmental inspiration. Taking images from natural environments, as well as sporting arenas and pixelating them in order to have a consistent product story. In making final considerations for colors, a tonal pallet (shown in Figure 37) was decided upon due to a couple of reasons. First, contrasting orange/yellow graphics communicated a very high alert, crash dummy aesthetic. In hopes of the product being versatile and accepted moving away from this felt critical. I was able to have a conversation with Thomas Beibe, a senior software engineer at one of my baseline products companies, dartfish. He explained how the angle tracking element of the technology worked on a rudimentary level. Through this conversation I learned that simple technology, such as ones that could be integrated into an iPhone app actually Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 57 process the videos in grey scale. This means that whatever color my products have need to have high levels of unsaturated contrast between the body and joint graphics. The tonal color pallet allowed the colors to still stand out in grey scale, yet not be so jarring to the naked eye. Figure 38 Joint Graphic Exploration A second thing that was learned through the conversation with Thomas were specific shapes that computer programing is able to more accurately follow and track. A specific example is a traditional crash dummy marker, but other hard circle shapes were also effective. This lined up with my research exploration with dartfish tracking using leggings. The necessary piece was that there was contrast, and hard crisp lines. In ideating joint markers, I wanted to create something new, softer, with several variations. This exploration is shown in Figure 38. The shape that I decided to move forward with broke up the traditional 4 quadrants with open edges and rounded corners to soften the visuals without losing any effectiveness. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 58 Final Garment System Creation The following series of photos (Figure 39-44) display the technical package made to communicate the final design to the factory creating the textiles. Needed specifications of overall finished tube dimensions, zoning specifications and yarn colors were called out. DESIGN PAGE SAMPLE YARN REFERENCE ~ flPTUF:E SIZE: \,Jl STYLE: 01 WOMEN'S LEGGING WOMEN'S flPPflJ;:EL 1-----------------------1 s SEASON: FALL 2023 DESIGNER: CARLY CONDUFF PANTONE 649C PAN-TONE 433C PAN-TONE 419C MATERIAL: 01 FINISHED TUBE DIMENSIONS FACTORY: 01 1--------~ 1W B HEIGHT 4" THREAD: SEE HEADER FRONT BACK HEH/WB: COMPRESSION RIB ZONE 1: COMPRES SION ZONE 2:HIGH ELONGATION LEGGING LENGTH 34" RIB HEM HEIGHT 4" '.:::====::::. • WIDTH ON FLAT 12 3/4" Figure 39 Legging Technical Drawing Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 59 DESIGN PAGE SAMPLE YARN REFERENCE W~ APTUF.:E SIZE: APPAF.:EL ~S_T_YL_E_,_0_2_w_o_M_E_N'_S_L_O_N_G_s.,.L_E_EV_E_T_O_P_ _____- -I WO~EN'S SEASON: FALL 2023 DESIGNER : CARLY CONDUFF PANTONE 649C PAN-TONE 433C PAN-TONE 419C MATERIAL: 01 FACTORY: 01 FRON T THREAD: SEE HEADER HEM/WB: COM PRESSION RIB ZONE 1: COMPRESSION FINI SHED TUBE DIMENSIONS RIB HEM HEIGHT 1" ZONE 2 :HI GH ELONGATION t+ TOP LE NGTH 21" 1RI B HEM HEIGHT 4" W IDTH ON FL AT 12 3/4" Figure 40 Top Technical Drawing Figure 39 & 40 FILE FOR KNIT SAMPLE YARN REFERENCE ~ APTUF.:E SIZE: \J] STYLE: 01 WOMEN'S LEGGING WOMEN'S APPAF.:EL ~S_E_A_S-ON- , F_A_L_L_2_0_2_3_-~_D_E_S_IG_N_E_R_:_C_A_R_L Y-C-□-N-□_UF_F_ S PANTONE 649C PAN-TONE 433C PAN-TONE 419C BMP FIie Garment BMP FIie Zone Garment • • Property Finished RibWB • High Compress ion • • High Elongat ion Figure 41 Legging BMP Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 60 FILE FOR KNIT SAMPLE YARN REFERENCE APTUF.:E SIZE: STYLE: 02 WOMEN'S TOP WOMEN'S APPflF.:EL 1--S-E_A_S_O_N_:_ F_A_L_L_2□_-23----,-D-E_S_IG_N_E_R_:_C_A_R_L_Y_C_O_N_D_U_F_F---t S PANTONE 649C PAN•TONE 43 3C PAN•TONE 419 C BMP File Garment BMP File Zone Garment Property Finished RibWB Hig h Compression 0 Hig h Elongation Figure 42 Top BMP One of the most important pieces of getting these textiles completed was creating the BMPM file for the factory. While in many cases this work would not be done by the client, in order for it to truly be owned by me and give me an opportunity to learn the whole process, I created all of the files that got uploaded directly to the machines. The files were created with specific pixel ratios and then brought into photoshop to change the mode to selective local color before exporting the final BMP. I provided two files for each garment, one depicting the yarn color graphic details, the second having color coded functionality zones. These are shown in Figure 41 and 42. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 61 INTENDED COLOR+ GRAPHUC DETAILS SAMPLE YARN REFERENCE EB APTUl'<'.E SIZE: APPf"lf;:EL STYLE: 01 + 02 WOMEN'S t-S_E_A_S_O_N_:_F_A_L_L_2_0_2_3 __~ _D_E_S_I_G_N_E_R:_ _C_A_R_L Y_C_O_N_D_U_F_F--, S PANTONE 649C PANTONE 433C PANTONE 419C LEGG ING Nll.ON,70IUEl/48F/1,"r,IIU0iEW:i91! ULCIW,!illlEIIIR/1,111'.~,U[J( I NYLON, lOOBIFJ/SIJll,"S",roRIIDSl,MAKBUIF120CI lnll.711U•R/58F/1,T, fORIIOS.l,D.I.M8lUEF1!o.t(J ffillt45llllER/48F/1.T. fORIIIISA,DARKRUEF1rot(I I 2 3 4 APPAREL SOLi□ APTURE DIAGONAL COLORS NON-PIXELATE□ BRANDING BREAKS BETWEEN VARIENTS OF ON SIDE OF ZONES JOINT MARKINGS TUBE Figure 43 Graphics Callouts DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE YARN REFERENCE EB APTUPE SIZE: APPf"lf;:EL STYLE: 01+02 WOMEN'S f-S-E-A-SO_N_:_F_A_L_L_2_0_2_3 __~ _D_E_S_IG_N_E_R_:_C_A_R_LY-CO_N_D_U_F_F_, S PANTONE 649C PAN-TONE 433C PAN-TONE 419 C Figure 44 Knit Development Revisions Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 62 There was a significant amount of trial and error in the first few days of developing these textiles. Between limited communication channels and the time difference it was a slow process to get questions clarified. Initial samples were made with only two yarn colors rather than 3 so I was not seeing the high contrast with subdued background that I was imagining. After moving to 3 yarn colors it took several trials to land the right accent color to achieve a knit combination I was happy with. An additional problem I was noticing on some samples is that the proportions were not turning out true to the file. For example, as depicted in some of the images in Figure 44 the circular graphics were coming out oval just due to the shrinkage of the mechanical aspect of the knit. To resolve this we elongated the BMP files. DIAGONAL GRAPHIC ZONE TRANSITIONS HIGH COMPRESSION ZONES AROUND JOINT CREATES VISUAL SEPARATION OF KNIT GRAPHICS ZONING STRUCTURE IN INFORM FUNCTION CREATES AWARENESS OF PROPER PLACEMENT WHEN DRESSING, RESISTS MOVEMENT DURING ACTIVITY JOINT MARKING/ GRAPHIC CALL OUT ON HIGH ELONGATION BODY ZONES IN WARP CREATED VISUAL DIRECTION INDICATION TO THE NAKED EYE AS WELL ALLOWS FOR AS OPTIMIZES VARIABILITY IN LENGTHS SOFTWARE TRACKING OF LIMBS FOR PROPER ABILITY FOR GRAPHIC PLACEMENT IMPROVED ACCURACY Figure 45 Final Garment Features and Benefits Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 63 The final garments were constructed from the tubes incorporating a gusset in the legging and raglan sleeves with a rib neckline for the top. The intended features and benefits are called out in Figure 45. Figure 46 Final Garment Close Ups The initial Apture product line garments followed through on the intended line plan and was executed with a male tight, sleeves and a female long sleeve and tight. While I was not able to secure different diameter knit tubes for the men’s product. Due to the stretch of the material it Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 64 was able to fit on a men’s size medium fit model. Both the leggings and top tubes were knitted with a 32G, 15’’ diameter machine. PRINTED MATERIALS SIZE LABELS ~ APTUF.:E \.[;' APPAF.:EL (XS •• © ___ M •••• L ____ XL} ® APTUF.:E APPAF.:EL DESIGNED IN PORTLAND, OREGON Figure 47 Apture Packaging and Branding Thinking about the project wholistically as a potential brand and how it would work in real life, it was critical to build out visuals for the user experience. Pulling from my graphics inspiration board I created hang tags, size labels, packing box and pamphlet that correlate with this visual theme of sports and technology. The UX flow is intended that the user opens their box with their Apture garments, scans the QR code on the card in the box and it prompts them to download the app and create a profle. Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 65 Figure 48 Apture App Home Page Figure 49 Apture App Wire Frames The user would then create an account by selecting the product line they purchased from, the products they purchased and then physical stats about themselves. All of this process is shown in Athlete Positioning Feedback Apparel 66 Figure 49. The use of the garments they have and their stats will build out what sport movements they are able to capture form on, and what the proper form would be. Figure 50 Apture App Correction Example. For example, someone who just bought a basketball sleeve would be shown sport movements to capture only involving the angle of the elbow. The athlete shown in Figure 50 however, has the whole kit and can analyze more complex movements. For a block start, the app can recognize the hip, knee, ankle shoulder and wrist joints to tell several things. First, the angle of the power leg which should be around 90 degrees. 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