ONE SYSTEM FITS ALL: PROPOSING A MODULAR DESIGN SYSTEM FOR DEVELOPING GENDERED PERFORMANCE FOOTWEAR

Abstract

In the performance footwear industry, gendered design has historically dictated both the structural and visual differences between men's and women's shoes. While midsoles and outsoles are often engineered on separate male and female tooling platforms to account for biomechanics and load distribution, women’s versions of top-tier performance models frequently receive less investment in innovation, storytelling, and fit precision. Uppers, the flexible component responsible for containment, lockdown, and comfort, are shaped around gender-specific lasts, but often lack aesthetic parity across male and female offerings. This discrepancy has real physiological consequences. Female athletes experience anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) injuries at rates up to eight times higher than their male counterparts in comparable sports, a disparity frequently linked to footwear that fails to accommodate female foot biomechanics. Footwear that lacks appropriate heel fit, arch support, and lateral stability can increase the likelihood of injury during high-impact activities, especially in cleated sports and long-distance running. Meanwhile, many women continue to buy men’s models for their more exciting colorways and broader market visibility, despite the fit mismatch. This dynamic underscore a critical gap between product storytelling and performance equity. This thesis proposes a revised approach to gendered performance footwear: a dual-last model that preserves the aesthetic and tooling consistency of high-performing models while delivering anatomically informed fit for both men and women. Rather than attempting to create a unisex upper construction, which research suggests compromises the biomechanical precision needed in elite sport, this model encourages brands to design parallel uppers on gender-specific lasts using the same tooling/upper framework and color/material/graphic (CMG) language. Through a combination of anatomical analysis, industry workflow research, injury data, and firsthand experience developing women’s cleated footwear at Adidas, this study explores how product teams can implement this approach in high-performance categories like cleats, basketball, and running shoes. Ultimately, this work argues that footwear companies do not have to choose between production efficiency and fit equity. By committing to dual-last development in their highest-selling performance models, brands can honor the specific needs of elite male and female athletes, while ensuring that all users have access to the same expressive design language and functional excellence. This is not just a question of inclusivity; it is a matter of performance, injury prevention, and long-overdue parity in the design process.